XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Rear springs and v mounts

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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 01:35 PM
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Default Rear springs and v mounts

Evening all. I am about to strip the rear irs and wondered about replacing certain parts. Firstly is there any way of checking the springs when dismantled other than visually? I.e. is there a measurement they should be length wise etc . Also the mounting brackets appear ok but are there any checks to make. I’m not being tight but with a lot of new parts to buy I can’t see the point in replacing stuff needlessly. Any input gratefully accepted.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 01:53 PM
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Remove the springs from the shocks. If all four are the same height and are all dead straight, they are OK. If not, change them.


Cage mounts: Put each in a vice (one side's metal piece) and with a pair of grips manipulate the other side's metal piece. If no delamination of the join between the metal pieces and the rubber, they are OK.


Whatever you do, if they need replacing use Metalastic ONLY. Manners have them. Own brand rubber parts on an XJS will fail and quickly.
Greg
 
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 01:57 PM
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I have heard that the non factory "V" mounts can pull apart so as I replace mine I'm adding a small cable between the upper and lower bolts. Currently looking for a cable specialist to fab 4 of them. A short cable with two eyelets attached.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 02:03 PM
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Greg, who is Manners and where are they?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 02:07 PM
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David Manners in the UK. I believe SNG Barratt have them too.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by RonaldP
I have heard that the non factory "V" mounts can pull apart so as I replace mine I'm adding a small cable between the upper and lower bolts. Currently looking for a cable specialist to fab 4 of them. A short cable with two eyelets attached.
All V mounts can delaminate with age, even Metalastic ones which are the only good ones, as the bond between rubber and metal eventually weakens. But it will take 10 or 15 years to happen with Metalastics, if not more. The rear axle cage mounts are fine if the weight is on the wheels, but extended periods on a 2 post lift, for example, leave the cage mounts in tension with only the glue between the rubber and the metal parts bearing the weight. There are cases of axles falling out under these circumstances. For that reason some garages place a support under the diff when the cars are on a two post lift. I was advised to place the arms of a 2 post lift an inch or two rearwards of the centre of the radius arm/body mounting bush. This takes much of the load off the cage mounts.
Decent mounts should not fail in service under normal road conditions though.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 02:16 PM
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Thanks. Might have saved me a couple of quid again .
 
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
David Manners in the UK. I believe SNG Barratt have them too.
If SNGB have genuine Metalastics then fine. Their own brand rubber bushes and parts I have found are not that durable. Overall SNGB are fine, no other grumbles.
One other thing (not specific to SNGB) I have found is that non OEM ball joints are also very apt to fail quickly(OEM are Lemforder which are top notch).
 

Last edited by Greg in France; Dec 29, 2017 at 11:24 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
If SNGB have genuine Metalastics then fine. Their own brand rubber bushes and parts I have found are not that durable. Overall SNGB are fine, no other grumbles.
One other thing (not specific to SNGB) I have found is that non OEM ball joints which are Lemforder, are also very apt to fail quickly.
Hmm, Lemförder is an expensive ZF daughter... OEM is Lemförder or were you refering to other balljoints, which aren't OEM but are Lemförder are crap? To put it bluntly...
 
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 11:11 AM
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Cage mounts: Put each in a vice (one side's metal piece) and with a pair of grips manipulate the other side's metal piece. If no delamination of the join between the metal pieces and the rubber, they are OK.

I’ve put the cage in it’s entirety up on a bench ready to start stripping. All the mounts are still fixed to it and after a good tug at them all I am happy they are ok. They do look to be in good condition as well. Cheers Greg
 
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Daim
Hmm, Lemförder is an expensive ZF daughter... OEM is Lemförder or were you refering to other balljoints, which aren't OEM but are Lemförder are crap? To put it bluntly...
Sorry Guys, a very ambiguous post by me! I meant to say:
"I have found is that non OEM ball joints are also very apt to fail quickly(OEM are Lemforder which are top notch)."
 
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Old Dec 30, 2017 | 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Sorry Guys, a very ambiguous post by me! I meant to say:
"I have found is that non OEM ball joints are also very apt to fail quickly(OEM are Lemforder which are top notch)."
Cheers Greg! That clears it up nicely
 
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