Steering Wheel removal
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Crackerbuzz (03-11-2019)
#3
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I think on that one there are 2 cross head screws on the back of the wheel that release the pad; I think that you can see them through the windscreen.
As I recall I used a stubby screwdriver to remove it.
There should be a plastic nut which unscrews and pulls out a tube which is the horns contact.
Then it is just a big nut on the end of the shaft to undo.
Make sure that you have the wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel centred properly or you won't line it up correctly when you come to refit it.
As I recall I used a stubby screwdriver to remove it.
There should be a plastic nut which unscrews and pulls out a tube which is the horns contact.
Then it is just a big nut on the end of the shaft to undo.
Make sure that you have the wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel centred properly or you won't line it up correctly when you come to refit it.
The following 2 users liked this post by Steve M:
Crackerbuzz (03-12-2019),
Greg in France (03-12-2019)
#5
As stated above, screws on the back of the horn pad, remove those. Then you'll see a large nut. Loosen, but do not remove, the nut. Then lock the column with the collar behind the wheel to stop it telescoping and pull sharply toward you . It light take a few tries to break the taper on the collets that hold the wheel. Once it's broken and loose, remove the nut and then the wheel.
The reason to loosen, but not remove the nut, is the nut stays there to prevent the wheel coming off and smashing you in the face as you're applying the sharp blows to the backside to loosen it.
I just noticed - you have a LHD car in NZ? Doesn't that make overtaking difficult?
The reason to loosen, but not remove the nut, is the nut stays there to prevent the wheel coming off and smashing you in the face as you're applying the sharp blows to the backside to loosen it.
I just noticed - you have a LHD car in NZ? Doesn't that make overtaking difficult?
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#6
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Crackerbuzz (03-12-2019)
#7
As stated above, screws on the back of the horn pad, remove those. Then you'll see a large nut. Loosen, but do not remove, the nut. Then lock the column with the collar behind the wheel to stop it telescoping and pull sharply toward you . It light take a few tries to break the taper on the collets that hold the wheel. Once it's broken and loose, remove the nut and then the wheel.
The reason to loosen, but not remove the nut, is the nut stays there to prevent the wheel coming off and smashing you in the face as you're applying the sharp blows to the backside to loosen it.
I just noticed - you have a LHD car in NZ? Doesn't that make overtaking difficult?
The reason to loosen, but not remove the nut, is the nut stays there to prevent the wheel coming off and smashing you in the face as you're applying the sharp blows to the backside to loosen it.
I just noticed - you have a LHD car in NZ? Doesn't that make overtaking difficult?
Just a generic image off the internet! Mine is on the RHS!
Well spotted though!
Cheers
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adenshillito (08-07-2021)
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#8
Be careful to keep an eye on the two tapered collets when you remove the wheel. Sometimes they stay on the column, sometimes they fall off. These must be reinstalled in their annular groove on the column or you cannot refit the wheel.
Lovely looking car, by the way.
Lovely looking car, by the way.
Mine looks similar though. Better take a pic of mine now!
Will put up a before and after!
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Greg in France (03-16-2019)
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