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If you are talking about the rear hubs, then they have left out vital shims and/or spacers because they do not understand the Jaguar system. Do NOT drive the car (except slowly to the garage) until this is assembled correctly, and assure yourself that they have understood this thread and that this next time they have assembled the hub and driveshaft with the correct items installed in the correct order. Show them this thread that explains it, see particularly post 38 towards the end: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ebuild-225834/
If you have any worries or bit you or they do not understand, just ask. The items in this photo, the large silver spacer and the smaller bronze one round the driveshaft spline shaft are the ones they have almost certainly got wrong somehow.
Yes I am referring to the rear bearings. I have read through your previous posts and decided to just take them to the shop that "has done them before" at least that's what they told me. One downfall is that the bearings were reshimmed not too long ago by the shop the previous previous owner used to do the rear work. I guess time will tell if they get it right this time. Like I said, they pretty much work exclusively on vintage British cars. They have some really nice stuff there all the time, and walking in the shop area, you can tell they're an old school specialty type garage. We'll see
Yes I am referring to the rear bearings. I have read through your previous posts and decided to just take them to the shop that "has done them before" at least that's what they told me. One downfall is that the bearings were reshimmed not too long ago by the shop the previous previous owner used to do the rear work. I guess time will tell if they get it right this time. Like I said, they pretty much work exclusively on vintage British cars. They have some really nice stuff there all the time, and walking in the shop area, you can tell they're an old school specialty type garage. We'll see
The rear hubs cannot be tightened to spec with the nut on the end of the driveshaft. The nut can only tighten the hub IF, and only IF, the correct shim is in place. These shims come in a wide variety of thicknesses and are only available from Jaguar or SNG Barratt. After a bearing change, the old shim will not necessarily be the correct one. The required thickness HAS to be measured as I showed one way of doing in the thread.
I happen to have a load of genuine shims in stock as I picked them up on ebay by sheer luck. If you need one, and SNg do not have that thickness, I'll post you one if I have it. The key here with the garage is NOT to abdicate the entire job to them without first checking that they understand the system of correctly fixing the hub. The fact that they sent the car back to you in a dangerous state, and tried to fix the play by further turning the nut on the driveshaft indicates to me they might not necessarily understand what they need to about the Jaguar rear hub. It is NOT the same hub-fixing system as on most, if not all, other old vehicles.
I wouldn't think living in the city would be the most ideal place for a car guy and his car. Where do you park your car and do you really work on it in the streets? Just curious as I grew up in Westchester and been around NYC and surrounding areas for many years. Love the city but always thought how I'd be able to play or work on my cars.
Yeah it's tough (kinda, and all good) and heck ya I can think of a bunch O places that would be more (or less) ideal... Staten Island has no alternate parking rules (for now) where they make you move your car to one side or the other for "street cleaning", weekly. A sweeper runs up and down the streets and ya have ta move your car 1, 2 or even 3x per week. None of that here,,, in Brooklyn this would be impossible!
Doing the work... No lift is the only difference. If I was in a yard or garage even, I would be able to not have to consolidate every day/night after work - and I wouldn't have to "unpack" everyday to get to work, but that's the only difference I see... Honestly, the packing up and unpacking, where to store stuff is the real challenge. With 3/4 cars that all need work - where to put everything becomes the real challenge.
The actual work of it I think is the same BUT, I have no experience with the other way, so I don't know, lol... Maybe it's better that way, for now. I count my many blessings.
Installed the Transgo reverse cushion kit (400 RK) in the TH 400. Just need to drill an orifice to between 0.086" and 0.094" diameter. Something aroumd 2.2 mm should be enough.
I also took my exhaust manifold heat shields to be rustproofed and chromed. Not chome like sparkly but chrome like in chrome-vanadium...
decided to buy a second-hand drive shaft and have it sent straight to wards in Colchester for reconditioning, decided to pull the old one off forgetting
that I had loctite the splins like a pratt, made it hard work,
Took a break from stripping the xj12 and started puttering with the injectors on the xjs. The hoses were so brittle as to simply crumble when touched. I am very glad the car didnt start when we were buying it.
That looks real good... getting very close now!
Whats next?
Injectors,
vacume lines,
fuel pressure regulators,
fuel rail,
injector harness,
some harnesses,
radiator,
transmission lines,
oil cooler,
some welding in the engine bay,
Quite a lot to do, and I am well behind time schedule (wanted it finished by October 2019 but that has now been put off).
Then the rear end is due, luckily it is just the rear axle and fuel lines...
That engine has the "full flow" oil cooling system, so there are two pipes, the ones you marked in red, one out to the cooler, one back, on these versions.
Earlier HE engines, until about 1987/8 or so (from memory) had the "bypass" oil cooling system. This system has one pipe out from the oil filter casting to the oil cooler, and the pipe back from the oil cooler returns to the oil sump sandwich plate at its front right-hand corner.
There are quite interesting arguments concerning the advantages and disadvantages of each system.
My car, being a 1985 HE, has the bypass system, and I considered changing it to the full flow system and read up about it. The consensus of the stuff I read was that the bypass system is perfectly effective - particularly as it delivers cooled oil directly back to the pump inlet, which sucks in a mix of oil from the cooler and oil from the sump; the pump having two inlets.
Anyway, i did some careful measurements on oil temperatures after very hot running, and found my oil temps, even in the camshaft area which is the hottest, were never over 87 degrees C. Also my oil cooler took 20 degrees C out of the oil from the inlet side to the exit pipe.
So I shelved the plan to modify the system to full flow!
I changed this Solenoid after breaking a nipple off the original doing something else. I think its a vacuum unloader from the cruise control bellows - maybe added as
part of a recall at some point?
That engine has the "full flow" oil cooling system, so there are two pipes, the ones you marked in red, one out to the cooler, one back, on these versions.
Earlier HE engines, until about 1987/8 or so (from memory) had the "bypass" oil cooling system. This system has one pipe out from the oil filter casting to the oil cooler, and the pipe back from the oil cooler returns to the oil sump sandwich plate at its front right-hand corner.
There are quite interesting arguments concerning the advantages and disadvantages of each system.
My car, being a 1985 HE, has the bypass system, and I considered changing it to the full flow system and read up about it. The consensus of the stuff I read was that the bypass system is perfectly effective - particularly as it delivers cooled oil directly back to the pump inlet, which sucks in a mix of oil from the cooler and oil from the sump; the pump having two inlets.
Anyway, i did some careful measurements on oil temperatures after very hot running, and found my oil temps, even in the camshaft area which is the hottest, were never over 87 degrees C. Also my oil cooler took 20 degrees C out of the oil from the inlet side to the exit pipe.
So I shelved the plan to modify the system to full flow!
You beat me to it, Greg.
BUT the full flow was always fitted to German XJ-S', due to the high Autobahn speeds... Bypass is only in US imports.
Bought an oil catch can to hopefulltly tone down my oil leaks, and replace the stock gunk-maker system which seems to soak my filter housing in oil rather then vent anything.
