XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

Battery not charging warning

 
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Old 02-08-2019, 08:13 AM
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Default Battery not charging warning

My 2013 XK had a Battery Not Charging warning come on as I was leaving a store on the way home 3 days ago.One by one starting with the airconditioner everything began to shut down I assume with what was least the least important system to eventually shutting the engine down.Only had a 2 mile drive home and barely made it when the engine started failing. Took the battery to a local auto parts store I use quite often, had it tested and it showed to be bad..Bought a new one from them , their top of the line, and installed it, drove around some the next day, and this morning the warning came back on. I've had a 2009 XK and replaced that battery with no problems so wondering if my alternator has gone out. Read there is a fuse or module between the alternator and battery on the XF ,does the Xk have the same layout ?
 
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Old 02-08-2019, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by texjag45 View Post
My 2013 XK had a Battery Not Charging warning come on as I was leaving a store on the way home 3 days ago.One by one starting with the airconditioner everything began to shut down I assume with what was least the least important system to eventually shutting the engine down.Only had a 2 mile drive home and barely made it when the engine started failing. Took the battery to a local auto parts store I use quite often, had it tested and it showed to be bad..Bought a new one from them , their top of the line, and installed it, drove around some the next day, and this morning the warning came back on. I've had a 2009 XK and replaced that battery with no problems so wondering if my alternator has gone out. Read there is a fuse or module between the alternator and battery on the XF ,does the Xk have the same layout ?
Charge the new battery with a 10A or better charger until it is at 100%. There is a BMS(battery monitoring system) on the negative terminal of the battery. Usually the dealer would reset the module if they changed the battery. It monitors the rate of charge along with the ECU . Once you have the new battery fully charged let it sit for a couple of hours and measure the voltage which should be 12.6V or better. Start and run the car and measure the voltage. It should be between 13.5V to 14.2V.
 
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Old 02-08-2019, 08:48 AM
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Also check the battery cables. After the car has been running, feel the cables/connector, its been reported that the cable to connector connection can begin to fail, and it will feel hot due to the resistance.
If so, replacing that cable may solve your issue.
 

Last edited by kj07xk; 02-08-2019 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:50 AM
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Check what has been said above.

But your initial message stated Battery Not Charging warning. Sounds like your alternator or a connection has failed. Do the voltage check when the car is running. Check the voltage between a chassis ground and the positive CABLE connector to battery, then check the voltage from a chassis ground to the actual positive battery terminal. they should be the same, and at 13.5-14.2V as jagtoes said.

Check the ground connection to the battery terminal also. Should be no voltage drop between the ground terminal on battery to chassis ground. 0.2V max if you have a decent meter/cables.

Find a good chassis ground. I use the screw where the spare tire hold down connects to.
 
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:57 AM
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Thanks for the information , I'm charging the battery now , I did discover as I was taking the battery cables off that the ground did not seem to be tightened as much as it should have been, I'll let ya'll know what the outcome is. Just want to get out in my car today to enjoy it before it starts to rain. Had an oil change scheduled for today but had to cancel due to this. Only other car that I had a real enjoyment driving besides this one was a Boxter S , had bought a new 83 Mustang GT in the past and really loved it but that was coming after a Pinto so I think anything else would have felt better than a Pinto. Times have gotten better, same displacement from the 83 Ford 5.0 at 176 hp. to 13 Jag 5.0 at 385.
 
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:30 AM
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Charged the battery up ,have the correct voltage showing, did quick test on ground on battery terminal to ground point on chassis, that checked out, then had my girlfriend start the car as I was looking at voltmeter. There was no increase in the volt reading while the car was running so does that show there is no charge going to the battery?
 
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:42 AM
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Also another question, in the what the schematics call the luggage compartment but I'm thinking its between the rear seats , there is a fuse 8 that is listed as Dual battery module and it is a 20 amp fuse. Hopefully this is the correct fuse schematic for a 13 XK.Just looking for any solution that is easy to fix for my problem, but what is this fuse for?.
 
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:50 AM
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I'm no expert, but it seems to me that if your battery is fully charged the voltage regulator won't call for the alternator to charge the battery. Try leaving the headlights on with the engine off for about 5 minutes. Start the car and recheck the voltmeter.

Do you have your voltmeter hooked up correctly?
 
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Old 02-08-2019, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by texjag45 View Post
Charged the battery up ,have the correct voltage showing, did quick test on ground on battery terminal to ground point on chassis, that checked out, then had my girlfriend start the car as I was looking at voltmeter. There was no increase in the volt reading while the car was running so does that show there is no charge going to the battery?
OK so my assumption is that if you just finished the charge you would see better then 12.6V I would think it would be 12.9 to 13V. Did you let the battery sit for 15-30 minutes without the charger on and then see if it held 12.6V. Now when you started it did it stay at 12.6V or did it drop. So now we would have to look at the BMS module on the negative cable and then the alternator. Also need to check all connectors and grounds. By the way do you have any codes set.
 
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by texjag45 View Post
Charged the battery up ,have the correct voltage showing, did quick test on ground on battery terminal to ground point on chassis, that checked out, then had my girlfriend start the car as I was looking at voltmeter. There was no increase in the volt reading while the car was running so does that show there is no charge going to the battery?
Even lower voltage alternators usually put out at least 13.6V which your meter should readily be able to read. If your car stays at 12.6V I'd say something's wrong with the charging system - wiring/alternator/whatever.
 
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Old 02-08-2019, 04:05 PM
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Well, ran the car a few minutes with everything electrical on I could think of, the battery not charging warning came on but I didn,t see any drop in voltage on the battery but if I probably run the car longer it probably will, my limits to what I can do are pretty limited so I real probably have it towed to Jaguar with AAA which they are cheap considering the cost of towing, if It's something simple such as what was mentioned by resetting the module for the battery maybe it won't be too bad or maybe a cable but if the alternator is bad I hope they will be kind on the cost.But getting a Jag I knew what I was getting into on costs.
 
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Old 02-08-2019, 06:13 PM
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Man, I should have proofread my last reply , guess that's what I get for posting after a nap. Forgot this last thing , I have an oil leak, don't know where yet until I get it to the dealership, could oil possibly be shorting the alternator out depending on where the leak could be? It's not leaking very much just a couple of drops a day , but that's enough for me to have it checked out. Didn't mentioned it because the charging problem seemed more important.Only have 32000 miles on this car, had 65000 on my 2009 XK no oil leaks .
 
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Old 02-08-2019, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by texjag45 View Post
Man, I should have proofread my last reply , guess that's what I get for posting after a nap. Forgot this last thing , I have an oil leak, don't know where yet until I get it to the dealership, could oil possibly be shorting the alternator out depending on where the leak could be? It's not leaking very much just a couple of drops a day , but that's enough for me to have it checked out. Didn't mentioned it because the charging problem seemed more important.Only have 32000 miles on this car, had 65000 on my 2009 XK no oil leaks .
Don't think it would be related unless by some slight chance it is dripping on the brushes which is unlikely. Where is the oil drops on the floor relating to the underside of the car. There is a large plastic shield under the front which runs up to the transmission. The oil may be in the pan and dripping out of this shield. Is it oil or transmission fluid. As for the battery at idle and normal temperature the voltage will normally read 13.5V. They most likely need to remove the plastic shield to look for the oil leak and the alternator is under the front right side of the engine so they can do an output test there. Let us know what you find. Also 32K miles seems low for an oil leak.
 
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Old 02-09-2019, 12:55 AM
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Battery Not Charging warning displayed on message center...
Only two things in the probable cause section of the my 2010 manual that are easily checked at home;

1.) Check Fuse 5 RJB (Rear Junction Box?).
2.) Check Front End Accessory Drive (FEAD) belt tension.
From there, your looking at electronic diagnostics for deeper troubleshooting.

Vince
As an FYI, If you're out of warranty and the dealership says your alternator is bad, the replacement is over $710.27 + labor
However a rebuilt from a trusted parts store can be had for about $250. An indie shop can probably do the whole job for under $400
 

Last edited by CleverName; 02-09-2019 at 01:49 AM.
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Old 02-09-2019, 06:52 AM
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Only as a thought. What if there is oil on the FEAD belt? Seems a bit far but, perhaps it could provide enough slip that the alternator wouldn't output enough.
I'm just wondering if the presence of oil might actually have some part to play.
 
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Old 02-09-2019, 05:47 PM
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Well , maybe my issue is resolved . Thought I would try again to work on the problem, tried to see where the oil leak is but engine is so tight couldn't tell , so I started the car again , voltage read about 12.6 across the battery, and decided to drive to see if there was a voltage drop.The battery not charging light kept flashing so I was going to find out what the drop in the battery voltage was going to be if it were not being charged. Drove a few miles with lights on and heater blowing full blast ,just to help with the drain. Got home didn't find much if any of a drop in voltage. Decided to look up again anything about the issue and found on another Jag XF site about someone with the problem of the warning light but didn,t have my issues of changing the battery. It said that to help the system learn about I guess how it is to know the correct load for the BMS module to operate, to start the car with all accessories on to give it a full load to calculate .With the car running I turned on everything I could think of ,heated seats, steering wheel, ,lights, ectů. and then checked the voltage which showed a slight drop. I turned off the car and then immediately started it back on with all the accessories on and in maybe five seconds saw my interior lights flicker and the warning go off. Checked the voltage, now I don't have the best multi meter, and voltage increased about a volt. A better multi tester probably would be more accurate than mine but it did show an increase.So I hope this solves it. I appreciate everyone that took the time to help me . Jaguars are a whole nother animal that's for sure. Now for that oil leak.
 
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Old 02-09-2019, 06:23 PM
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For your year and model and BMS operation as I mentioned you should see 13.5/6 Volts at idle (750-800 rpm). Check it with a digital volt meter. It shouldn't matter if you have all or none of the accessories on.
 
 
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