Some of you may have seen my earlier rant... Curious?

From that experience I found a nugget of value for the community... The top latch motor assembly has an internal nylon gear to engage the primary motor to the worm gears... Friggen plastic....

The jaguar part number for this assembly is, C2P7558... My ******* wanted $980 and 2 weeks... I've found this online from $600-900.

This is a Bosch motor assembly that mates to a transmission of sorts, so I figured this might be used in other applications, I was right.

A llittle research yielded an alternative PN from BMW for the e36 and e46 convertibles 67 61 8 370 816. My local BMW ******* has these for $385, in stock. There's also a healthy online supply of these from reputable vendors like Pelican. I've found these online from $300-400.

The BMW forums are chock full of threads discussing this very item and their numerous failures and attempts to solve the failure prone design.

I took mine to BMW and compared theirs it measures exactly the same in every dimension and the Bosch motor is the exact same PN. The only difference is the. Electrical Connector, easily spliced.

Theres probably other applications as well... Feel free to pull the thread further...

An even less expensive alternative I found is a "repair kit", eBay seems to have a few suppliers for this at about $150.

https://www.ebay.com/i/222351950969?...D1254361632919

Oh and they have a manual top release tool as well, exact same as ours for $7

http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...0fkaAqnM8P8HAQ

 

How does the top open if the manual header latch worm gear just spins while the roof is closed?

I haven't found a solution to opening the roof if the manual latch mechanism is shot.

To be clear, the top won't open because the gear at the window header latch is not engaging to open the claws that close it the very last couple inches of the closing or first couple of the opening.

 

Well, that was a bit of a nightmare!

Had to figure out how to open the roof to repair the latch motor. The worm gear drove itself through the the plastic stop and pivot point at the end, or I did it by over tightening the manual override, not sure which but the plastic gear driven off the motor's worm gear was in shatters.

The plastic (fiberglass, I guess) cover will unsnap and there is enough give to insert a 5mm allen wrench at the end of the clamp worm gear that operates the claws to unclamp the roof. I think there may be enough room to remove the drive cable on the right side since that drive cable is somewhat loose, I didn't do that, I did with the 5mm allen. if you have a flexible screw driver drive with a 5mm allen it may be easier, I have one but I didn't have a 5mm allen to put in the end of the screw driver.

Once opened and the cover remove the motor is held in place by two 10mm nuts.

Six T10 torx screws hold the plastic cover that holds in place the worm gear and sprocket driven off the motor that then drives the clamping mechanism's via two sheathed drive cables.

I had to "engineer" a solution for repairing the failed plastic cover by adding a ABS plastic insert with a pin hole for the end of the worm gear. It's working but I believe its a temporary repair but to be honest the design of the plastic part is doomed to failure, even on a new motor. There is a better design and to be honest if I had the tools to make the part I made in brass it would be a long term solution.

 

Hey ROCKINGNM,

Looks like the upholstery shop that replaced my convertible top left me with a broken motor latch. I'm seeing that part from Jaguar listed at around $1,500 or so. I'm looking to maybe use the Bosch motor that is for the BMW you mentioned. Like you said, it seems like it'll work as long as I can splice the wire. Is this the route you ended up going and did it work out for you. It also looks like they broke the plastic cover to the manual Allen wrench top override ($85+) and also the passenger side rear quarter casing moving flap kit is broken (Part #C2P21070LEG). I wonder if this broke when they put the top back in to the trunk manually. The tether in that part is broken off. It's $157 from the dealer. So far, two different shops have seen my Jag about the convertible top and they're broken (at least) three parts between them that I can tell. Who knows what else they may have ****ed. Anyway, I'm deep into and committed to this fix now. So I need to at the least get the front motor latch replaced. Hoping the Bosch motor for the BMW will work. Do you know if this is a difficult job to replace that motor btw or pretty standard stuff for people who don't work on Jags?

Thanks

 

I wanted to add some updated information to this post.
In the common failure mode where the plastic gear has broken or worn, you hear the motor running from up near the latch but the top will not latch or unlatch. This usually means the plastic gear inside the motor gearbox is broken or worn. As these cars age, we are probably going to see a lot more of these plastic gear failures.

The replacement motor OEM assembly C2P7558 currently lists for $1657 and can be found for around $1250 from an online Jaguar part dealer. Used ones on eBay are currently running around $600.

The BMW part listed above (67 61 8 370 816) will fit, but as stated will need the connector swapped. It can be had online for a little over $300.

If you really want to save money on this repair, a gear repair kit is widely available on Amazon and eBay for $12-$15. Just google 'BMW convertible top latch gear repair kit'. Only the larger gear in the kit fits, but that is typically all that is needed, because that is a brass replacement for the plastic gear. This video shows the gear replacement: .

Be sure to add fresh grease. You will need a T10 torx screwdriver to open the gearbox.

On the X150, the access cover for the motor is removed by removing the T20 torx screws at the from inside edge of the top and simply pulling the panel down to release the spring clips. This job is also best done after putting the pump in manual mode with the top stowed but the tonneau cover open. Once finished, close the tonneau, and restore the pump to automatic mode.

So, go to the dealer and pay $1657 plus labor for this repair or DIY for about $12. This is a pretty satisfying fix!

The new brass gear runs just slightly louder than the original plastic one, but it is really not an issue in my opinion.

 

Excellent info! Order one just now, to have on hand, as mine sometimes makes grinding noises.

 

Maybe you should put this part order info on your sales site, possibly as a drop shipper even, make a buck or two. You know, just to keep good info in one spot and all.

 

Thank you so much for posting this information. I've ordered the part from Amazon and will hopefully get my convertible sorted very soon and saved £1000s
Thanks again.