I've read the info on how to clean the convertible top and what products are available but have a question. When the car was new and the top got wet did it bead the water or did it just look like it was absorbed. I just detailed the car the other day but didn't do windows and the top. So my next thing to do would be to finish the car. These tops seem to be more of a breathable material instead of the old vinyl type tops I have had in the past. I have a bottle of 303 Aerospace protectant and have seen the info on how to apply so I'll most likely go that route. Does anyone have pictures of the finished process.
This was after clay and waxed (Magurie gold paste) and Lexol on the inside. wheels were removed and waxed also.

 

Sounds like you did the surface of the paint just right.

Complete the top using my method, and the results will be very impressive.

Make sure you give the top ample time to dry, before spraying water on it to see the end result.

You will be amazed.

 

Jagtoes:

Do you Aerospace 303 the top yet? if so how did it turn out?

 

Not yet , just waiting for the weather to get better . Also been tied up but did get a chance to read the bottle which just says spray and wipe off but don't get on paint and glass. Maybe I'll get to it next week unless golf gets in my way.

 

Just an FYI - I did follow your reco and applied near-in a 1/2 bottle of the Aerospace 303 on my black 2011 top. I ordered the product from Amazon. It was a bit scary the way it looked "in process" (I "painted" it on using a high quality new paint brush). The next morning the top looked "as new" and has stayed that way since (it's been a couple months now). While the water "beading" isn't as dramatic as I thought it would be - it is a notable improvement vs. prior (where the water just seemed to absorb into the fabric).

I've waited for a bit but I am just about ready to apply a second coat (use up the rest of the bottle) just to see if that would make any further improvement to the water protection properties / beading.

Thanks for the reco...

Anyone considering this product I would join Richzak and suggest you do it.

 

Another FYI - I also followed richzak's procedure earlier this year, using a full bottle.
A few weeks ago, I hit the top with a slight spray as I was washing the car, and was pleased to see the water nicely beaded on top.
However, this past weekend, my baby had to spend a day out in the soaking rain, on a trip out of town, and when I got back to the car, there was no beading on top, just on the sides, and by the rear window. The top had a damp look to it.
The next day I rinsed off the car to get the debris off from the trip back home, and was surprised that the top was once again beading water.
So apparently there is a limit as to how much water the protectant can handle, before it can no longer keep it out. Yet it will continue to shed lighter amounts.
I'll probably do the top again soon, just to see if it will absorb more protectant.

 

If you spray the product on, you better do this to the car, or you might be sorry after spending all that time detailing the paint.

There is no way to avoid overspray unless you cover the car as seen in the image below or apply with a brush. I don't care what the bottle says, I suggest you take the advice of other Jag owners who have done it the way I suggested.

Good luck with spray, you have been warned. Use a high quality brush to apply the product.

Click once to open then click again for fuller image.

 

303 Fabric Guard is not meant to seal the pores of your fabric making it waterproof. It intended to treat the fabric so that it repels water but still allows the fabric to breath. It is normal that in a heavy soaking rain it will not bead up.
I've used this product on both my boat canvas as well as the convertible top. The boat sits out in the sun all summer long and the top still looks new after years of being in the weather.