Yeah, this topic has been beat to death but......
I've studied all of the threads relating to the failure of the electronic parking brake and, while a lot of great info, can't find anything to help me out.
Have an '09 XK, 23000 miles. About a year ago, the dash display lit up with 'Park Brake Fault, cannot apply park brake.'
Fortunately, it has failed in the 'OFF' position so, while I cannot apply the parking brake, at least I can drive the car. Fortunate also that I live in the flatlands of Florida and don't need to worry about parking on hills
Tried all recommendations: battery - not it; reset - no help; and so forth. Tried to take it to Jaguar dealers: none want to work on such an ancient machine. Searched for local mechanics who said they would work on it: all but one said yes but no diagnostics due to the high cost of the Jaguar software to diagnose. Found one who did have the software: best determination is that it is the console switch.
On my own, tried changing the module, first with used exact same unit, no change. Then with a new exact same unit, again no change. With the module unplugged I could apply power directly to the harness to the actuators and get them to apply and release but not via the system.
I tried replacing the console switch with a new exact same unit, no help.
When I go through the reset, I can hear the switch working (clicking), both apply and release, but only while performing the reset, After that, nothing. At the same time, I can hear the module click but not hear the brake actuators working.
Bought the latest version of the iCarsoft diagnostic tool for Jaguar. Ran it, cleared the codes, no help, diagnosis came right back.
Anyway, all that I can find from the iCarsoft tool is under Review, Module Info, there are 3 results, all of which say "Hall Effect Failure, Permanent:"
I have no idea what this means, no idea what has failed, no idea what to do to correct the issue.
I tried using iCarsoft to get the car to recognize the new module but couldn't figure out how to do that.
I've read about actuator failure, but since I can get them to function by applying direct power to them, that system must be working (after the module) and that wiring harness (from module to actuator) must be good. If I can hear the module click when doing the reset procedure, that wiring harness (from switch to module) must also be good.
Guess I'm missing something somewhere but I am at a total loss. I am certain that I can correct the problem, if only I can figure out what the problem is. Any help, other than everything else that I have tried, will be extremely appreciated.

 

I and many others have had the EXACT same failure...it's always the actuator assembly. Just replace it.

 

Thanx for your response. I've seen that solution many times on the various older strings, and I'm considering that is the last thing to look at (the last thing you try is always the solution in any problem, ey?) but my question to that answer is: If the actuator is not working, why with the module unplugged, will the brakes apply and release when I apply power directly into the harness to the actuator? I would think that if the actuator is not working, nothing would happen when applying power to it directly.

 

Can’t say specifically why, could be a mechanical failure could be a sensor failure. Regardless replacing the assembly corrects the problem.

 

Hall effect sensors are in the parking actuator - motor is separate electrically

 

Could be, but unlikely. These are known to fail across multiple JLR models.

 

Just noting that the op can operate electrically the parking brake doesn't mean the hall effect sensors are ok - he posted that diagnostics reported "Hall Effect Failure, Permanent".

 

Thanx all for the enlightenment. I see in the wiring diagram sent by McJag222 that the hall effect sensor is in the actuator, so it now makes sense to me that if that has failed then relacing the actuator resolves the issue.
So, replacing the module (that didn't solve the problem) was relatively simple, other than removing the rear seat to access it; also replacing the the switch (as directed by the only expert who would help me locally) was also relatively simple, other than removing the console trim panel to access it; I now must deal with the most difficult part of the repair: accessing the damn actuator.

 

Searching for the part. New ones are pretty much made of unobtanium, anyone have any experience with used ones? Also, conflicting fitment being found: some say 2007-'09, some '07-/15, then there's '10-'19. All the pix appear to be identical. Sheesh

 

Well, managed to find a new unit in Dubai, made a deal on Ebay and, including delivery, $516, total which, compared with the few new ones I found stateside, was close to 1/2 the cost. I found used ones available for less than 1/2 of what I paid for the new one but, tho they all said they were tested and working, just couldn't take the chance.

I found, I believe elsewhere on these pages, someone else said they replaced there's by cutting a hole in the front of the spare tire well thus exposing the actuator to be removed from inside the trunk. I jacked the car up and, instead of tearing the bottom rear of the car out to get at it, managed to get the cable ends disconnected and disconnect the wiring connector, then cut a hole inside. The most difficult part was figuring out from underneath where to cut the hole but managed to cut a hole large enuf to remove the actuator assembly easily. It wasn't easy cutting nice straight lines in there but got a decent hole cut, which I will make a sheet metal cover to put over, then line the inside of the well with thin black carpeting.

Only I major glitch in the whole process: tho the item was new-in-box and listed/advertised as fitting my '09 XK coupe, there was a slight but major difference, which I didn't discover till I yanked mine out and compared the 2. The cable on the new one was +/- 28" from the box to the tip of the cable whereas the cable on mine is +/- 42" long. Figure I'd take a crack on taking mine apart, as since it was non-functional anyway, it didn't matter. Once I saw how the drive that extends and retracts the cable works, I took the new one apart and was able to put my longer cable onto the new actuator body. Damn lucky I'd say.

All tolled, got maybe 10 hours into it, and after doing a rest, it works fine, like it should and always did before.

 

Finished cover patch

 

Miltruk,
I applaud your creativity. However, I would not recommend cutting access holes in the body.
A window was cut to replace the fuel pump in my X-Type years ago. Though gone now, I regret it to this day.
When my 2010 XK had a problem with a fuel level sender, I removed the exhaust, disconnected the drive shaft and lowered the rear suspension sufficiently for clearance to remove the fuel tank.
Anything that could be supported or suspended without completely disconnecting was. No lift, just a jack and massive wood blocks.
Cutting holes and making patches is time consuming and must be done very carefully.
Using that time to remove parts for proper access conserves the value of the vehicle and adds to pride of ownership, IMHO.
Again, I applaud your creativity. But I recommend otherwise.

Best regards,
Bill

 

Thanx for your comments, Bill. I agree, cutting into something is not (always) the best way to go but:
1. Being a 73-yo and having a bad back, and not having a lift available, I was not about to lay on the floor on my back removing and replacing everything that had to move to accommodate the repair.
2. This is a non-structural part of the car so no anticipated future damage.
3. If I ever (have to) part with the car, a future owner would most likely understand the reason for the 'access plate', if not knowing before-hand, knowing after it was explained.
4. I've had to do this in the past. Chevy Astro van died in an airport parking garage, many miles from home. I had limited tools but no way to get out for parts, if needed. Had it towed to a friend's location, diagnosed a failed fuel pump. Scrounged a ride to a parts house. Of course, it mounts in the top of the tank. Not willing to drain and lower the tank, borrowed a drill and snips, cut out an access panel in the floor of the back of the van, R&R'd the pump, made it on my merry way. Made an access cover on my return home. Again, anyone question would understand, and most likely appreciate the future access, if ever needed.

 

Milt,
Thanks for the thoughtful response. I have two years on you. An old injury of the right knee reminds me that I'm no longer twenty-something.
Your Chevy Astro story reminds me of attending an out-of-town funeral and having a 5-or-so mile per gallon water pump failure in a Dodge minivan on a Friday afternoon.
No way was a local shop going to look at it before Monday. A nearby auto parts store had the water pump, and Sears had a Craftsman kit on sale.
Two wheels on the curb allowed access to the part. Four- or five-hour drive later, home.
Sounds like we have a lot in common. In what part of the world are you?

Bill

 

20 miles south of Daytona Beach.
Yeah, so many stories about breaking down and getting home, got a bit of history of it. Of course, I pride myself on having the abilities to get myself outa those situations, mostly cuz I couldn't afford to pay for someone else to fix it, or even to get a tow. I think like a hard-working farmer: if I break down out on the south forty, being a couple of miles walk home, then back out again, I damn well be able to fix the broken equipment, finish the day's work and get back home again by dinner time.

 

I have NEVER used a parking brake in my life..will never use one....always seems to be an issue from my E-type to my XK!!

I am 68.

???

 

I've never NOT used a parking/e-brake since I was 17 in the 1970s and had to replace a locking pawl inside a transmission. I've never had any issues with any brake ever. I'm just about the same age as you are.