Hey all, Mrs Peel my 97 suddenly died at freeway speeds today with no warning tonight and had to be towed home. Car had been running maybe 8-10 minutes in 20 F degree weather. Check engine light came on solid but no errors codes at all. Just the P1111 that everything is fine. Car would crank but not fire tho almost stumbled like it might start once or twice.

Any thoughts/tips/wisdom on what should I be looking into? My guess is start by disconnecting/reconnecting the battery to reset and see if it’ll restart then. Am I right in thinking I should be suspecting the ECM? Or are there other things I should be looking into that may be likely suspects to not throw any error code but to cause car to crank but not fire?
Idle has been getting very slightly rough lately and has been starting slightly harder sometimes. Many thanks for the input.

ps Weird random symptom/thing, once home, noticed that the trunk would still pop and headlights still come on by the key fob but the car itself refuses to lock or unlock with the fob at the moment so had to lock the car with the key in the door.

 

Have a check of the fuel pump,(fuel delivery)
Also have a check of the battery voltage...

 

P1111 only means everything is fine _with the OBD monitors_.

Doesn't mean all else is OK. With the MIL on you can expect code(s). (May need a specialist/OE tool, though.)

 

I agree that the likely cause is a failed fuel pump. The factory fuel pumps in the 4.0 cars are now dying off at a steady rate....

 

+1 to dead fuel pump as top of the list of likely suspects.

Graham

 

Turn on the ignition and hit the Schroeder (SP) valve on the right side of the fuel rail. That will give you a instant yea or nay on the fuel pump.
If that is it, welcome to the crowd.

 

Or don't start the car until you can confirm the tensioners have been updated...

 

I had the tensioners done immediately after I bought the car and no weird noises so shouldn’t be that. Thanks for the tips that the fuel pump is the likeliest suspect. Will test that out this weekend.

 

Resolution for any future readers: It sat in the garage for several months until I had time to get to it. The issue was the fuel pump.

I checked the fuel rail Schrader valve for pressure and there was none. I also put about a tablespoon of gasoline down the throttle body, put it back together and started it. it ran for a few seconds till that burned off and that made me feel pretty sure it was the fuel pump.

I used a Denso pump (951-0008) and the OEM Jaguar filter sock. I used the OEM fuel line filter too, tho wish I had known to order 2 new fuel line o-rings too as they didn't come with the Jaguar fuel filter. I used some Viton O-rings form a Harbor Freight multi-pack that seemed about right. One original still looked fairly good, the other one was a bit squished looking and tad hard.

I tried to get the fuel lines out of the bottom of the fuel tank with a long screw driver and a quick-disconnect tool for a couple of days and I, personally, could not get them out. I could not get a good enough grip on the fuel lines to pull them out while still holding the disconnect tool in.

I ordered Robert Krause's XK8 Fuel Line tools ( XK8 Fuel Line Removal Tool for Replacing Fuel Pumps ) for the job and then I got both lines off in maybe 15 minutes. I did use a carpet knife to cut a slightly bigger V into the plastic disconnector tho first to help get it onto the lines. Expensive, but would recommend. Reconnecting took maybe a minute, tops, with the reconnect tool, tho I suspect that part may not have been hard anyway.

The Denso fuel pump plugged in the existing pigtail directly. Although the the pump I took out was also a Denso so I am unclear if the OEM was Denso or if it had already been replaced once before. Thanks everyone for the input. Very happy to have Mrs. Peel back on the road again.

 

the entire car is just an ocean of denso parts

 

Well done. Wayne (cjd777) and I can certainly relate to battling those two fuel line disconnects underneath the car....

 

Well done. It is a PITA to get those fuel lines on and off.

 

When I replaced my fuel pump I dropped the rear suspension out of the car for access to the fuel lines at the bottom of the tank. I was afraid that if I didn't do this, something might go horribly wrong with disconnecting or reconnecting those fuel lines due to poor access. Dropping the rear suspension really wasn't a big deal, it's just bolts. I did find that I needed to get the horizontal bolts started before installing the vertical bolts.