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Went to look at a 2001 with 42k on it in PA. Great exterior color, meh on the oatmeal leather...but I could live with it.
Body and undercarriage were devoid of any rust save for a small surface patch on battery tray. A few minor bumper scratches.
Seller says it had been on the road last in 2013, mismatched front and back were flatspotted. So after careful examination of underbody I ask to start car. Remote opened locks... Stone cold per my request the previous evening. No death rattle from front of valve covers. I remover the expansion tank cap to look for the flow. A murky brown fluid starts moving....slowly...but never really picks up volume....uh, bad color. Seller admits it has just started a small coolant leak. Ok but what about the color? Coolant light and check engine light on....he says O2 sensor.
The antifreeze on the garage floor is pink. All of a sudden I see a small triangular piece of plastic floating in the expansion tank under my flashlight beam....then a rectangular piece. Then the smell of anti freeze heating up. Of course the temp gauge is at half mast. Looking closer there is fluid on manifold under the lower hose of the expansion tank that looks like it had been there a while. Old fuid at front of manifold too. Brother thinks radiator fans are covered with old spray from a previous bursting hose. Fans nevercdo come on.
After about ten minutes of running my brother pops off the oil cap....which I did prior to starting...(it was clean), and there is a slight white hazey goo forming on cap.
Blipping throttle doesn't produce any white smoke but a very uneven exhaust...40 degree day....but there was some white drops coming from driver side pipe.
Test drive...car ran great, pulled strong and shifted fine. Tires felt like they were made for Fred Flinstone....so hard to guage ride.
Car really smelled of antifreeze when we got back but no leaking while running or when shut off. Puddle on garage floor from prior day looked pink vs. brownish fluid in expansion tank.
Brother was adamant I walk away. Seller was flustered by his comments....offered it to me for under $5k.
Ugh......brother pulled me aside and said it would never make the 40 minute drive home.
I said for that price it can be rebuilt and still be on the money.
I would buy at that price. It's unlikely engine is shot and plastic bits could be from original water pump blades or thermostat tower that someone broke to remove. If a head gasket were gone I would expect white smoke from exhaust. But if you aren't able to carry out repairs yourself, your brother is correct.
I see many are coupe fans hereabouts. I understand the desire for a tiny bit of body stiffness, but cannot get my head around not buying a convertible. However, this car should be shipped here as I would gladly take the headgasket job. Never easy, but singing "I'm Saving $2000 Bucks" seems to help. ps- possibly go back with a pressure tester or even a compression gauge without your Brother?
Last edited by olddavidp; Nov 22, 2023 at 07:53 PM.
Interesting replies. You read so many horror stories on these forums and maybe that is why I heeded his advice. You all make it sound somewhat routine. He's my brother and I love him but you'd never know we're related. But as a guy who could change a wheel bearing on his trailer, at night in the Montana winter on the side of a dark highway ya gotta give some credence to his opinion....the big goof.
It checked all of the boxes I learned on these forums with a very extensive list gleaned from reading here over the years from no rot, ride height, clear lights to key fob talking to the ECM. Antenna worked and windows would drop a bit to open door. It exhibited some foibles like the headrest making noise but not going up....I can tackle that.....and a funky ashtray cover....but the cup holders worked!!!! All lights, accessories, emergency brake etc., etc. Headliner good and tight....little loose around A pillar but not bad.....really everything was spot on most of the electrical gremlins were absent. But then I started it up!
Engine light on....he claimed an O2 sensor per his mechanic and then a few minutes later Low Coolant light.
I will admit the plastic bits were worrisome. Tiny but how big does one need to be to block a critical cooling port I thought? Guess I'm wrong on that count. I did hit the AC and you felt the compressor engage and a blast of cold air but I neglected to see if the fans came on......would they not if the engine was on verge of overheating? Car was running, in park, over twenty minutes.
I've witnessed blown head gaskets and the white cloud. This didn't have that and in hindsight the whites dropletts could easily be condensation as it had gone from 25 to 45 the past day in the area. Exhaust volume uneven which bugged him.
So....dumb question.....how much water movement should I have seen in the expansion tank after a few minutes?
No...I'd have all the work done by an Indy. I have two pre 1970 cars I'm comfortable working on but not this. Besides....it'll be sitting for the winter and I know an anally retentive wrench who would take 4 months to do the work!!! It'd be ready in the spring.
So the immediate to do list would be tensioners, chains water pump, headgasket and tires. Honestly I think I'd still be well under market. I've looked at a bunch of 13 XK150's over the summer....nice but my heart calls out for the XK100. I expect any XK100 to require to need a couple grand every year or so as insurance....so for the price??
Besides...I still have a lot of cassette tapes!!
Oh and as far as Coupe v. Vert? The first time I saw a coupe in the flesh I seriously debated selling my 61 Vette to buy one in 98. Luckily a few years later I was able to get a 97 for under $8k I drove the wheels off. So I have still a drop top but I just love the look of the coupe. Would look nice next to the MGB-GT as well.
Texted Seller, we'll meet up again Sunday!
Last edited by thegreatgarbanzo; Nov 23, 2023 at 12:57 AM.
You need a code reader if you're going to look at it again. Just having the basic P codes will provide a lot of information, but if you get one with the ability to read real time data you can read the actual temperature. Do a search of the forum for suggestions on which one to buy.
There are a lot of places that can leak coolant and a head gasket is not very high on the list. Did you check the condition of the front upper shock mounts?
You need a code reader if you're going to look at it again. Just having the basic P codes will provide a lot of information, but if you get one with the ability to read real time data you can read the actual temperature. Do a search of the forum for suggestions on which one to buy.
There are a lot of places that can leak coolant and a head gasket is not very high on the list. Did you check the condition of the front upper shock mounts?
I had mine with me but never took it out of the car....don't ask why. Probably because the negative chatter.
I figured I would replace allthe soft bits in the suspension. They looked a bit crumbly.
Like you I worked on the and still have many British cars. The XK was a (and still is) a learning curve I never thought I would have most less understand.
The mechanicals are just that, just a bit more attention must be paid but the electric takes me to the experts here. As info, they must think I'm retarded. LOL
If you have room in your garage, you have 4 months to get the front end off the engine and look at it, don't put a wrench in your hand until you understand your next step.
Buy or borrow the right tools, it will make your life must easier.
Worst case, forget it and ask if the price includes shipping to NC.
You got this.
I may have misspoke. The tester I referred to I borrowed from Autozone. It had instructions and fittings that put pressure on the cooling system and if there was leakage, the gas would turn the color of the liquid. This was twenty years ago when I was trying to bring an old TR-6 back to life and the dystopian world I inhabited then was terrifying, so my memory could be clouded. I am sure such a thing still exists, and would help your diagnosis. This sounds like a no-lose proposition, but only if you do your own wrenching and negotiate a lesser price so he pays for the new parts. Plus, your bio shows a 2004 coupe, and with 118k, you've either paid enough to find out if there are any competent Jaguar techs or done it in your garage. Ergo, this is no hill for a climber. Or, as my drill sergeant always said, "Son, if you're feelin' like a frog - jump!!
Plus, your bio shows a 2004 coupe, and with 118k, you've either paid enough to find out if there are any competent Jaguar techs or done it in your garage. Ergo, this is no hill for a climber. Or, as my drill sergeant always said, "Son, if you're feelin' like a frog - jump!!
Hmmmmm...not sure why that says that. I had an 07. I called the shop that used to do a lot of work on it yesterday....they no longer do English cars.
Gotta fix that bio!
Last edited by Don B; Nov 30, 2023 at 05:26 PM.
Reason: Repaired quotation html tag.
Don't give up on this! I'm expecting to read about the process in the depths of winter, and smile to myself while saying 'there, but for the grace of God, go I". Besides, I will be with you soon, anyway, as my convertible top is angry, and I have that tiny draw of electricity that I haven't found in almost two years of wire by wire searching. And I've been told that the ZF needs maintenance. What part of "Lifetime" have I forgotten?
Interesting read, reminds me why I really appreciate this forum. :-) I, too, wanted a coupe, and looked for about a year before I found one that suited me. The coupe to me shows off the gorgeous lines of this car better than the convertible does, plus I had a different convertible in the past and found it was one of those things I liked better in theory than in reality. I was also fortunate in having a neighbor with a 2001 convertible who was happy to let me try it out before I bought my own, and they connected me to a fantastic local indy who really knows his stuff. And yes, it has been in to see him several times, for the chain tensioners and water pump, and the front upper strut mounts. Other than that, normal maintenance items. Don't plan to ever sell unless I find an '03 XKR coupe in similar condition.
Re the mention of the cup holders working; many of them work fine while the car is sitting still It’s when the car is in motion that all hell breaks loose. Just turn a corner and the cup holders become “cup ejectors” and the cup with contents go flying
Three, two, one, we have liftoff !
best of luck to you in your search. Some good bargains can be found if you are patient. It took me five or six months to locate my 2002 XKR. They can be found with all the known issues already fixed ( like mine was). And with care and a bit of luck it will be a very enjoyable experience to be an owner.
my car is my daily driver, not a fair weather toy. In Over 6 years of ownership I’ve put over 70,000 miles on it. Would’ve been much more , but the Covid slowed me down…
Here's the rub. I know I need to do x amount of fixes....but if bought right...I can have a clean body with most of the big stuff newly replaced. For less then what you see on BAT.
I'm 65....I'm not fooling myself......but for the initial money I can justify spending another $4-5k on a super clean car. The bones feel good.
Of interest, looking at my notes the dip stick oil was clean....not milky...perhaps too clean as in newly changed. Should muck up by Sunday if there is an issue.
Oh well....we're having some folks over for pie and bourbon in twenty minutes....well I'm having the bourbon with pumpkin pie.
Thank you for all the feedback.
Ill spend tomorrow lining up a trailer, digging out my pressuretester and getting some fresh block blue fluid.
I'm kinda on the side of the ones who say buy it, because of the worst case scenario being an engine rebuild. I made the mistake of buying a 97 coupe that just needed a little body and paint work. It was really cheap, so I thought it would still be a good deal with the usual stuff needed. After $3K to get it up to safety standards, not bad considering. It just needed the rocker panels redone and a paint refresh. I started taking her around to body shops. I was quoted between $8k and $12k for rockers and respray, nothing special.
"Pandora" was summarily sold off. I did manage to recoup my investment...almost.
Since then I found a gorgeous 03 convertible with a perfect rust free, original paint body, perfect top, and pretty much all the usual work done, that had spent most of its life in Arizona. I spent too much money for it, but I figured that if I had bought any of the lesser ones I had seen for the usual going prices, I would have spent that much and more by the time I was done anyway. She's not perfect, the rear outside bolts on the valve covers seep just enough oil on to the exhaust to stink up the cabin. The mirror switch is balky, and the drivers side seat belt receptacle cover is broken. But she's a pleasure to drive and you could eat off the engine. Gonna keep "Misty"!
A 22 year old car that has been sitting for 10 years? Of course it leaks fluid!
After 10 years things will happen when you start driving it.
No rust and 5k? I had bought it (and maybe regret it later)
Swayed by a pretty face!
