What are the size and length of the upper cam tensioner bolts?

I see lots of references to shorter bolts, but haven't found someone just saying what bolts they are.

 

The shorter bolts are used for the version 3 latest metal-bodied tensioner as the stronger body does not need such a long bolt housing. The new bolts should come with the new tensioner although, if they didn't, you could easily measure the length of body casting plus threaded depth into the cylinder head and buy suitable bolts or just cut down the longer bolts from the old tensioner.

I think that they are only torqued to 15Nm (although check this as this is from 20 years ago) so it's not a high stress application.

Richard

 

I have just cut about 5mm off the end of the old bolts and they fit.
The front timing cover bolts are the correct length so I have 'borrowed' 4 bolts from the cover and ordered replacements because you can install the 4 cover bolts at a later date so the engine covers can be mostly finished up.

 

Yes, I know about the shorter bolts.

I'm 20 miles from my nearest traffic light, and 30 from the nearest hardware store. I was hoping to find out what bolts to get BEFORE starting the replacement job, rather than having to start, pause, measure, drive into town, buy parts, drive back then get back to the job that could be done as a single task in less time than running into town for the parts.

 

If the new metal tensioners you purchase don't come with the revised screws, the screws you need are M6 x 1.0 pitch x 35 millimeters long, with flange heads.

The original screws are 40 mm long.

My local True Value Hardware carries suitable 10.9 grade (strong) screws in the correct size, and they can be ordered from industrial suppliers like McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com).

Cheers,

Don

 

EXACTLY the information that I was looking for! Thank you very much!

I got the new tensioners from Barratt. They are from Eurospare, good price but they came without bolts and I didn't think to order them when I ordered the tensioners.

I stopped by the local Ford dealer today, they would have to order new screws, with a 7 - 10 day wait time. Cutting the original screws is a possibility (now that I know the length I need). The nearest Home Despot has metric flange bolts Grade 8.8 so I might go that direction or check with True Value.

 

All you have to do is measure the flange length on the two tensioners and cut the difference off the old bolts. Maybe I should have explained that?

Richard

 

If you cut your old screws, it helps to first thread an M6 nut onto the screw before you cut it, so the process of removing the nut helps to restore the shape of the thread at the point where it was cut. The nut can also be used as a cutting guide to help make a good square cut. Just set the nut 5 mm from the end of the screw.

Cheers,

Don

 

I must be in one of my pedantic moods, because I feel compelled to offer the following tidbit:

According to the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), a bolt is a fastener that is affixed with a nut. A screw is a fastener that affixes in a threaded hole. The same fastener can serve as both a bolt and a screw, depending on how it is secured.

Therefore, the upper timing chain tensioner fasteners are screws.

Cheers,

Don

 

You learn something new every day

Z

 

When talking to engineers, I've always referred to them as machine screws rather than screws.

Richard

 

So, try to explain the newspaper headline about a lunatic who assaulted a staff member then escaped the asylum: "NUT SCREWS AND BOLTS" . . .

 

LOL - too complicated for me. If it's tightened with a screwdriver, it's a screw. If it needs a spanner or socket, it's a bolt - unless it has a shank (and it's Sunday), then it might be a setscrew.

How would SAE define a fastener that affixes to a captive nut? My MG's full of 'em