First - I understand what P1000 is and it's not an error code, and in Torque Pro I see all my readiness monitors are complete except for the nebulously named "Components"
Secomd - I have months and 300+ miles on the car like this, running countless ridiculous and unsafe drive cycles suggested in forums and various sites. Coasting 30s on the highway... idling 11 minutes... 4th gear 3k+ 30seconds.... insane crap - much of it correct I'm sure.
Third - No actual DTC's have raised in this time (which if someething actually failed, I'd expect a 'pending' at least after all this time).

It started when I replaced an O2 sensor which had an actual DTC, then I cleared the codes, sadly... instead of letting it clear itself.

Car runs perfectly since. Not a single issue.

All my realtime sensors seem OK although my TPS (manifold) is reading about 4% with my foot off the pedal. It drops to idle and idles perfectly, and I read that this is typical and within range, but idk if that's true.

Is there any way to drill down deeper and figure out what test is not being complete specifically or what sensor might be making it unable to complete?

I can't pass emissions and get re-registered, and am driving in violation currently.

 

FWIW, my components monitor cleared immediately after I did the throttle sensor range "calibration": engine off, ignition on (basically instrument cluster illuminated to make sure all computers are turned on), slowly go through the entire range of the gas pedal. Slow push, slow release. Do this a couple of times because why not. By slow, I mean don't just tap it. Take, say, a few seconds for each stroke. Somehow, my components monitor cleared immediately after I did this. In the end, quick and $0 to do.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Worth a shot - I just did it, will see if it has any effect when I take it out again.

I did just find this detailed explanation from Jag:
DTC Summaries

Which explains the cycles for each of the 7 diagnostic monitors (my failure being "Components").
Unfortunately for "Components" it says it's too involved to list, so check the cycle for every possible DTC under that monitor. Which looks like someone telling you which beach the grain of sand you are looking for is at.

But it seems to at least give me a list of things it looks at, and maybe I can check each individual sensor to see if it's out of sorts. None are raising DTC's and all the other components are always passed, so nothing is flaky or intermittent. But who knows - if the system must see 0% from the TPS, maybe that is a problem it can't flag as an error, but can't complete a test with it.

Ay other insights are much appreciated - I'm going to start just going through all those DTCs and noting key sensors and things to check I guess for now.

 

Would the WDS or other proper Jag specific OBD tools give more explicit information about what exactly isn't running, vs me just shooting in the dark with my generic OBDII tool and Torque Pro?

 

Have you checked to see if that monitor has to be set to pass emissions where you live? Different places have different requirements including looser rules for older cars where not all monitors have to be ready. Worth checking anyway.

 

^^ This. Here in North Carolina, you will pass inspection as long as no more than one readiness monitor is incomplete. And once your vehicle turns 20 years old, the readiness monitors are no longer part of the inspection process.

 

I think you guys are onto something! I just looked back at my initial failure after swapping out my O2 sensor and it has a few "Not Ready", whereas now it's just the one. It sounds like here in CT/USA older cars can have one. Thanks for the advice - fingers crossed.

I would still really like to understand why the monitor isn't completing - I know I'll face more gremlins down the road and would like to understand this aspect better for the future - so anyone with ideas please still chime in.

 

Hello,
A WDS or IDS can read any sensor, as long as Jaguar had planned for this. The general OBD tester cannot read Jaguar-specific errors.
Best regards, Willi

 

Car details?

 

That's promising to hear. I'm trying to understand the system a bit better for the future though. What, in this scenario, would I expect to find with WDS with regard to troubleshooting why my P1000 is not clearing. Would it list a certain DTC which has not gone through it's cycle? Or somehow otherwise flag which test or component hasn't completed its test procedure, or would it still be up in the air which of the god knows how many possibilities haven't completed? I mean if it was the "Heated Oxygen Sensors Monitor" it would be a slam dunk - explicitly described in the jag docs what the procedure is. This "components" black hole is killing me not understanding.

2003 XKR Convertible 53k miles.... my forever car.

 

Maybe this TSB?

 

That is probably the funniest document I've ever seen on here. Tough luck if you live up a mountain and you must make sure you get this between 12 minutes 45 seconds and 1 hour 24 minutes, plus all four grandparents must be present for 50 seconds, with one trouser leg rolled up.

 

No kidding - all these procedures are nuts. Here's one from the Jag docs:
Downstream oxygen sensors: 1 Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F). 2 Drive the vehicle steadily between 48 – 97 km/h (30 – 60 mph) for 10 minutes. 3 Drive the vehicle above 3000 rpm in 3rd gear at a steady speed. Lift foot completely off accelerator and coast for 30 seconds.

Where can I drive steadily for 10 minutes 30-60 in suburban Connecticut? The highway. So I'm below 60 with my hazards on the highway (everyone goes 75+) - then looking in my mirror until I'm sure there's a big enough gap when the 10 minutes is up, so that I can COAST for 30s (already starting from < 60) without being rear ended by a tractor trailer.

There's another one you have to idle for 11 minutes after running a different drive cycle. I tried that one a few times - sitting on the side of the road like a jackass for 11 minutes.

 

Well the good news is that I did pass, thanks to your tips that one incomplete was allowed. So I'm finally legal. Still want to understand what's going on, but much less stressful having to worry about not being able to re-register once my reg expires.

Plus I was able to get the special classic car dispensation with my town today so that I'm only property taxed on a $500 value.

So a good day overall.

 

I wonder if you could do that on axle stands on the driveway, or if you'd get an ABS fault? Otherwise you need to book a 4 wheel rolling road somewhere I suppose. Either way what a PITA.

Glad to hear you got the car through in the end. Just make sure you never do a hard reset ever again in your life.

 

On Drive Cycles: it's not normally necessary to follow any of them, they just can speed things up - sometimes a lot.

Any specific requirements do matter, though, e.g. for EVAP it needs not too much or too little fuel because there can be vapour problems e.g. due to too much sloshing around.

The TSB is essentially documenting a, er, politely, foul up, but at least it did get documented.

 

I had the same issue a few years ago. After many "drive cycle" iterations I could not get them cleared to okay. Took it to dealer that is 1 mile to freeway and took 2 days but they did it.

Have not had the issue since.

 

Something is probably nearly non-working but not as yet out of range/faulty. It can be easier if things just fail so you know what & can replace the pesky item(s)!!

Sod's Law is so powerful...

Sometimes you can use OBD live data to look at sensors and see something that is in range but marginally wrong e.g. IAT or ECT that is plausible to the car but wrong and then replace the sensor.

Pending codes sometimes provide a hint.