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With driver's door open and no key in ignition on our 2003 XK8 coupe, the door window repeats the drop down action as follows-
Door closed
Pull door handle
Window drops slightly as usual
Leave door open, no key in ignition
Window drops again, pause, drops again, pause, etc, etc.
Close door and window remains at last position
I've searched the forum but can't find exact symptom. I've reset the windows but no change. Quite fresh battery and no other issues. Probably something up with the door handle/lock mechanism.
Anyone experienced this and able to isolate the problem?
We just did this on Jon89's wife car and he did a great write up. He should chime in shortly, if not I'll call him to make a post here.
Might find it on a search just getting ready to go out the door.
As Wayne (cjd777) mentioned above, new door latch microswitches that we installed in early April finally fixed the door lock / window issues that my wife's 2006 XK8 had been intermittently experiencing since last summer. You can read all about it in my thread entitled "Drivers Door Handle / Door Lock Problem". There are other links within that thread that will also help you so be sure to click on them and spend sufficient time reading up on what you will need to do. Good luck....
Makes interesting reading. In it, Barry Tucker said (quote) "It's a miserable job if you have large arthritic hands. If your hands are normal to small and your grip is sure it won't be too bad"
Also note the safety advice to make sure you've disconnected the battery (or removed fuse) as you don't want the window dropping while your are hands inside the door.
Just to close off with the resolution in case it helps others. The symptoms became quite inconsistent but always with the door open. My thoughts were that a failed microswitch should result in a consistent effect.
Tried disconnecting the cable between the door and A pillar and cleaning the contacts with electronic cleaning solvent. No improvement.
Tried a full reset by disconnecting battery and connecting the leads. No improvement.
One last try before removing the door card, latch etc. Sprayed lubricant into the door latch mechanism and worked the door handle a few times between sprays. Success!! And a sigh of relief.
Unfortunately, lubrication of the door latch assembly is only a temporary fix. It worked for me for several months at a time but replacing the gradually-failing microswitches was eventually required....
Unfortunately (for me) you are correct Jon89. Several weeks of no problems with the window. Left the car parked for a couple of weeks and now the window drops correctly when opening the door but returns to the upper position immediately. So I have to drop the window before closing the door. Then use the key to raise the window if leaving the car. Shall tackle the switches replacement soon.
I assume after leaving the car for a few weeks you did a window reset? Another suspicion is the battery. You get all sorts of weird effects when the battery is getting low. If your going to leave it for a while id recommend putting a CTEK charger on it.
When my XKR window acts up it is an indication that the electrical gremlin wants to play. I end up with a no start, then jump start, take battery for a check, get told battery is fine, take it home, put it back in, and starts right up like nothing was ever wrong. They cycle has repeated three times. Has only occurred during hot summer spells. One odd thing I notice is the negative battery cable terminal is much warmer, actually hot, compared to the positive one when I go to disconnect. Now its October, so I hope the gremlin is hibernating till April or so.
On all the cars I DIY restored, I’ve changed the battery cables with copper upgrades. Avoid crimped connections. Cheap and easy to do on the X100. Pic below.
Hot cables are a sure sign the the cables and/or their connections are bad. Could get away with just cleaning and grit paper the connection surfaces to shiney steel. A little silver conductive paste can help stop corrosion coming back. But age and corrosion affects not just bodywork, but cables too.
Batteries on these cars are a pain in the fuse box. If its over 5 years old all sorts of weird gremlins present themselves. As David said the battery checks out fine etc but after a good few days on charge with the CTEK, who I do not work for etc, the problems go away.
Good suggestion from David though. Heat on/in the cables suggests resistance. Resistance to being charged perhaps? Its the one thing on my car I have not changed. Hmmm perhaps I should think about that.
David just been looking into replacing the battery cables. Did you buy a set specific to the Jag or did you have some made up? If so can you remember what the lengths and cable size was? What sort of cable is it, copper?
The other thing is you said avoid crimped connections can I ask why? I assume your new ones must be soldered?
As stated in the first post, battery is fresh. Whichever car I'm not using has a charger (CTEK) connected.
About 3/8" drop sounds about right. Just needs to clear the sealing rubber.
David just been looking into replacing the battery cables. Did you buy a set specific to the Jag or did you have some made up? If so can you remember what the lengths and cable size was? What sort of cable is it, copper?
The other thing is you said avoid crimped connections can I ask why? I assume your new ones must be soldered?
Hi Frank,
Recently I had to change the positive battery cable as I had a hydraulic oil leak in the trunk. I went for an over the counter Deka 00293 15" 4Gauge copper cable with cast antimonial lead terminals. The box said that the copper core extended to the end of the plated lug for cast one piece solid connections. See pic in my previous post above.
I can't remember what brand I got for the battery ground/earth cable, as I changed that as soon as I got the car 2 years ago. Never liked the existing braided steel cables for such an important electrical connection. Went for copper one as well.
I've always had problems with old crimps working loose, or corroding, and just recently the crimp worked loose on my old set of jump cables. Now that was scarey!
Door Window Repeating Drop Action
