Hello,

My 2003 XKR is nearly at 110,000 miles and it should be serviced. It has a full Jag dealer service history and I'm thinking of continuing the tradition. I've only owned the car for a few months and I've never had to service it before so I'm wondering what kind of bill I'm going to be looking at. Also is there information about what exactly does a normal 110,000 miles service include?

There's a couple of other issues that I'd like to be checked too.

1. Breaking at speeds over 50mph shakes the hole car.The front break discs feel like they're bent? Can anything be done to this other than disc replace?

2. The transmission sometimes makes this squealing noise when shifting under heavy load. I've read that this is quite common and can be fixed by a complete transmission fluid change. Do they do this at jag shops?

I'd be grateful if anyone can shed some light on how much I'm going to be spending. I live London...

 

You could ask for them 'to be turned', but check your thickness of them now, if they're even close to being at their recommended minimum (for safety), doing a turn will be a waste. In that case, just get new rotors and have them installed. You can still get Brembo rotors online, you don't need to buy the OEM parts. Other high-quality manufacturers will work too, and be a fraction of the dealer pricing.

Yes, the squawk was supposed to be cured by a fluid additive, but at your mileage, a fluid drain and filter change would clear it up. the newer formula of the ESSO fluid has compensated for that additive and you won't need it with a fluid change. Dealer or a VERY good independent jag mechanic (that can tell you the fill/check procedure by memory) is all I would trust to do this work on your transmission. Be safe here and use the dealer, if you have any doubts at all. We've heard some horror stories of fluid changes going bad.

 

Bad wishbone bushes could cause the shaking breaking as well.

 

Thanks guys. I'll take it to the shop and see what they say. Guess I could change or turn the rotors myself. Apart from standard tools would I need anything special for this? Axle stand and torque wrench?

 

Removing the rotors with only standard tools is easy but most will not 'turn'. My OEM rotors at 60k miles required milling beyond minimum specs but then yours, at 110k miles, are almost certainly not what came on the car.

One hint; the rotors/hubs tend to corrode together and can be very difficult to remove. Loosen the lug nuts a turn and a half and rock and roll the car to break them free. Lots easier than the 'get a bigger hammer' method.

 

Changing the rotors would be easy, but it takes a special lathe to turn the rotors. I guess you could take them to a brake shop and have them do it for you. I've never had good luck with rotors that have been machined. They always seem to warp again within a few hundred miles, then you're right back where you started. If you determine that it's the rotors, just buy some new ones. Replace them in pairs (both fronts or both rears). Put new brake pads on at the same time, that way everything matches and will wear evenly. Put lots of copper grease underneath the new rotors, that way next time they have to come off they won't be stuck to the car.

Amazon.com: Loctite 38650 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant Brush Top - 8 oz.: Automotive

 

Most cases of braking shudder is actually deposits of pad material that have been transferred to the rotor surface. This can be removed by your local shop using a kit made by 3M mounted on a hand grinder. Turning them on a lathe is not required or recommended.

 

Interesting... I did not know that. Is it a DIY job, or must it be done by professionals?

 

A DIY job if ever there was one. Here's the kit

3M Disc Roloc Brake Rotor Kit | Wayfair

It mentions 'after turning on a lathe' but it's also used to remove the pad material in lieu of machining away expensive metal.