My parents own a 2005 Jaguar XK8 which developed a bad coolant leak last year. The car's been now sitting in their garage for over a year now. They want to sell the car and I'd like to help them out by fixing it up so they can get more money out of selling it. I found the bad coolant leak and fixed it last night. The "Octopus" hose had a bad leak coming from the NORMA connector. The connector literally fell to pieces once I started touching it. I fixed the issue and moved onto the other issues at hand. I filled her up with coolant and made sure all fluids are where they need to be at. I cranked her over and she is reading 7 codes.

They read as followed:
1/7: P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
2/7: P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
3/7: P1314 - Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 2
4/7: P1316 - Injector Circuit / IDM Codes Detected
5/7: P2099 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich Bank 2
6/7: P0191 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
7/7: P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor A Circuit High

Not sure if this is all caused by 1 underlining issue or if it is multiple issues. Just wondering if anything screams out on being obvious? I'm not a pro mechanic or anything. Good with tools though from being an Electrician, ready to take on whatever task to help them out. The car before the 1 year sit didn't have a knock or anything, after sitting for a year there seams to be a knock sound coming from engine bay and rumbling/vibrations. Not sure if some computer or sensor or relay has gone bad and is causing all these codes. Thank you for any help you might be able to throw my way. Hope everyone is doing well

 

Edit: To add to my thread post. First guess is PCM replacement?

 

no - first guess is a failing battery if it sat for a year

 

Replaced it with a brand new battery the other day. Unfortunately not the battery

 

Hmm, I took apart the PCM just now. Thing looks like it's brand spanking new. no obvious issues with it, literally every inch of the motherboard looks in perfect condition. Was hoping I'd see like a burned capacitor or water damage or something. Damn. I guess it still could be the PCM, just nothing obvious jumping out...

 

if you replaced the battery then clear the codes which should leave a P1000 which is not a fault - just means all the system checks need to complete - this will take a few drive cycles and see if they come back - weak battery plays all kind of havoc on the electronics, or you could just start replacing expensive parts and hope something sticks

 

Also perhaps contributing, bad gas. If it doesn't have ethanol in it, shelf life is 3-6 months. With ethanol, it's a crapshoot (shorter) since the ethanol can evaporate leaving you with lower octane.

 

Hmm true... Didn't think about that. I'll have to drain the gas and refill. Good idea

So you suggest I clear the codes and drive it a few times and see what happens? Whenever I put the new battery in, the engine wouldn't crank over for the first 4 or 5 times trying. It stalled a couple times. Now it stays on but just rumbles and vibrates and has a knocking sound. You think this can all clear itself up after driving it around? I'm really unsure, I don't know much about these sorts of things, just want to make sure I understand what you are wanting me to try. I'll try whatever suggestions.

 

Check the fuel pressure- schrader valve on the fuel rail looks like a tire valve. You should have 55 psi when the ignition is on, resulting in a strong spurt. The fuel pump may be failing.

 

Depending on how much gas is in the tank, you might be able to fill up and fix potential gas issues, but draining is the surest bet.

 

Unfortunately it was left at 3/4 full

 

You may have the wrong meaning for P1316 - it may be another excessive misfire code.

 

It is

 

Hi Jason,

If the P0304 recurred after clearing the codes and running the engine, try swapping the ignition coil from cylinder 4 with the coil from another cylinder. Clear the codes, run the engine, then re-scan. If the code moves to the other cylinder, suspect the coil has failed. The diagram on the right shows the cylinder numbers of your 4.2L V8:



If the engine is misfiring (which could be the source of the knocking sound you are hearing), you really want to resolve the misfire before running the engine much, since a misfire can allow a significant volume of unburned fuel into the exhaust, which can ruin the catalytic converter.

If the P0191 and P0193 codes recur, inspect the wiring in the engine bay for signs of rodent damage. If I recall correctly, the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor is at the rear end of the Bank 2 fuel rail, above cylinder 8.

My references indicate that P2099 was implemented by Ford/Jaguar on the 2004 and later X-Type, but not on your 2005 XK8. Are you certain this is the correct code number? It is possible that your scan tool is incorrectly interpreting data.

Cheers,

Don

 

Wow one heck of a post. This is incredibly helpful! Can't thank you enough for spending the time to write this up. Sense my parents live about an hour away and during the week I'm swamped with work, I haven't been able to make it back over there. I was planning on working on it during the weekends. I'll have a solid update come Saturday. That's a clever idea swapping the ignition coil, for sure giving that a go. Haven't yet reset the codes but was planning on spending all day Saturday and most of Sunday working on it so I'll know a lot more information then. Also that is indeed what it spit out, took pictures of all 7 codes so I can look back on them. Here's the code it read.


P2099

 

Several things come to mind all originating with the coolant leak. Hot coolant leaking can work it's way into wiring and connectors. Add to that long term storage before repairing and you have the potential for corroded connections and condensation settling out. The coolant leak could very well have found some of the coolant getting into the ignition system (coils) not to mention causing some minor corroding of the injector connections. I would say, start with the usual suspects of inspecting the coils and spark plug wells as well as connections. Also inspect the air filter housing for those pesky mice. They love the taste of antifreeze coated materials so aside from chewing a hole into the filter there may be some rubber/plastic lines that were nibbled on. As for the gas, well after a year it is likely sour. If draining it out is not an option, a quart of lacquer thinner mixed with a quart of gasoline and dumped in the tank will do a fair cleaning. Just remember though you may need to replace the fuel filter after a while. Dirty, gummed up injectors can often be mistaken for ignition problems. Personally, I like to run a couple of tanks of Amoco Ultimate through the system before doing an injector flush (if necessary at that point) That is if the misfire is not noticeable and you have an option to be able to drive it a bit.

 

JasonCo !

bump..bump..
..word...
what is the outcome of this thread ?
are you fixed and how ?

kind regards,

max & XKRFACE

 

So sorry for such a late response! A lot has been going on lately for me and haven't had time to put much thought into troubleshoot any further. Today is the perfect day for me to head back down and start picking off the list of advice mentioned above. Heading off soon, will keep the thread updated for sure on what happened today. Again my apologies, and again thank you for your time and help that all of you provided.

 

Alright so major update! Their Jag is 100% fixed, no engine light and runs super smooth and quiet. Don B coming in clutch with his advice about switching the ignition coils around. What was odd is that I would clear all the codes and run the engine and wait for the engine light to turn back on, it would spit out 4 - 6 random codes that mostly had to do with misfires (also the car was telling me I had faulty wiring) but one of the codes would always be 'Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected'. So I swapped Coil #4 with Coil #6 and cleared all codes and ran the engine and waited for the engine light to come back on and read the codes. Again 4 - 6 random codes would come up but Cylinder 4 code went away and now it read 'Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected'. So to triple check I swapped Coil #6 with Coil #2 and repeated the whole process and what do you know... 4 - 6 random codes but one thing was apparent, 'Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected'.

So I went down to the auto parts store and bought a new ignition coil and put that sucker in. Cranked the engine and it runs as smooth as you can imagine, no rumbling or anything. ZERO codes, no engine light, the faulty wiring warning sign went away, and runs like you were to have just bought it off the lot haha. That one faulty ignition coil was causing sort of a chain reaction of codes to spurt out...

Again thanks everyone for such good advice. My parents haven't seen their car run in over a year and could not be any more excited and happy right now. So thank you for putting in the effort to help me out. Hope everyone is starting the year off on a good note, much love coming from me. Thank you!

 

Well done. And damn those plastic Norma connectors....