JTIS jacking points & hoping they're right
#1
JTIS jacking points & hoping they're right
Hey guys,
Has anyone had issues with the front cross member being used as the jacking point? I don't know if I'm using too small of a race Jack but it really seems like I'm warping the cross member.
Though you can't see it in that picture, I think the metal below the radiator is getting closer toit. Any thoughts or am I being paranoid?
Has anyone had issues with the front cross member being used as the jacking point? I don't know if I'm using too small of a race Jack but it really seems like I'm warping the cross member.
Though you can't see it in that picture, I think the metal below the radiator is getting closer toit. Any thoughts or am I being paranoid?
Last edited by p-Rock; 03-23-2013 at 07:23 PM.
#2
Everyone has had that concern but that is what Jaguar specifies and I have jacked mine there many times without problems. Are you sure you are using the cross member. The bent section pictured does not appear to be the correct point. If it is the correct point perhaps it was bent in some other manner other than jacking.
Would you mind publishing your signature picture in a larger format?
Would you mind publishing your signature picture in a larger format?
Last edited by test point; 03-23-2013 at 07:43 PM.
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p-Rock (03-24-2013)
#3
Did the front brakes today so had the blue cat in the air. Used that same jack point (see the little arrow molded into the front strip?). Except for that noise the plastic makes when it first goes up, it's fine. Have used it now several times with no problems. Although I will say mine doesn't look bowed like yours.
+1 on the larger sig picture BTW.
+1 on the larger sig picture BTW.
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p-Rock (03-24-2013)
#4
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p-Rock (03-24-2013)
#5
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p-Rock (03-24-2013)
#6
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p-Rock (03-24-2013)
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#8
#9
I am pretty certain that in Rev Sams' video, he is lifting by the radiator support beam. I use that point as well; however, I first drive up on ramps and REMOVE the plastic valence, and then I use a length of wood 4x4 about 15 inches long to distribute the load.
Here is a link from a certified Jag Tech, who uses the radiator support beam:
http://www.justanswer.com/jaguar/3w4...nt-jaguar.html
All sources warn against using the aluminum crossmember (engine cradle) to lift. So the only subframe crossmember remaining that could be used to lift the front end is the u-shaped steel channel which runs between the lower control arms and is attached to the aluminum crossmember by the same bolts that attach the lower control arms to the crossmember. This piece does not appear to be strong enough to support the weight of the front end, especially using a single point in the center. Plus it is bolted to the aluminum crossmember so I would exclude it as a candidate. Once I experimented using this location to lift, but stopped immediately after I noticed the channel beginning to flex.
Here is a link from a certified Jag Tech, who uses the radiator support beam:
http://www.justanswer.com/jaguar/3w4...nt-jaguar.html
All sources warn against using the aluminum crossmember (engine cradle) to lift. So the only subframe crossmember remaining that could be used to lift the front end is the u-shaped steel channel which runs between the lower control arms and is attached to the aluminum crossmember by the same bolts that attach the lower control arms to the crossmember. This piece does not appear to be strong enough to support the weight of the front end, especially using a single point in the center. Plus it is bolted to the aluminum crossmember so I would exclude it as a candidate. Once I experimented using this location to lift, but stopped immediately after I noticed the channel beginning to flex.
Last edited by GordoCatCar; 03-24-2013 at 11:23 AM.
#10
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p-Rock (03-24-2013)
#11
#12
w/o taking off the plastic, I've been using a short piece of 2x4 on the floor jack, but placed lengthwise just behind the rubberstrip. It spreads out the force and doesn't break/deform that rubber strip that comes on each brand new $240 plastic undertray (this is my 3rd part to install in my ownership, so I'm being more cautious as prices escalate)
#13
#14
I've lifted our XK8 at the crossmember a number of times, but I always use an 18-inch piece of 2-by-4 lumber balanced across my floor jack to help spread the load. I prefer to drive up on my Rhino Ramps and work that way, but obviously I can't do that when I need to pull the wheels....
As several have already mentioned, the key is to spread the load whenever you jack it up....
As several have already mentioned, the key is to spread the load whenever you jack it up....
#16
I wouldn't worry. All the important pickup points, eg. suspension, engine mounts, etc. come off the aluminum crossmember which would not be affected by the small amount of deflection to the radiator support beam shown in your pic. If there were any damage from the radiator support it would probably show up in body panel fit. If your hood seam is straight and even, then I wouldn't worry.
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