XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

JTIS jacking points & hoping they're right

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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:20 PM
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Default JTIS jacking points & hoping they're right

Hey guys,

Has anyone had issues with the front cross member being used as the jacking point? I don't know if I'm using too small of a race Jack but it really seems like I'm warping the cross member.



Though you can't see it in that picture, I think the metal below the radiator is getting closer toit. Any thoughts or am I being paranoid?
 
Attached Thumbnails JTIS jacking points & hoping they're right-p-rock-106551-albums-my-02-xkr-coupe-6674-picture-temp-4-17699.jpg  

Last edited by p-Rock; Mar 23, 2013 at 07:23 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:36 PM
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Everyone has had that concern but that is what Jaguar specifies and I have jacked mine there many times without problems. Are you sure you are using the cross member. The bent section pictured does not appear to be the correct point. If it is the correct point perhaps it was bent in some other manner other than jacking.

Would you mind publishing your signature picture in a larger format?
 

Last edited by test point; Mar 23, 2013 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:47 PM
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Did the front brakes today so had the blue cat in the air. Used that same jack point (see the little arrow molded into the front strip?). Except for that noise the plastic makes when it first goes up, it's fine. Have used it now several times with no problems. Although I will say mine doesn't look bowed like yours.

+1 on the larger sig picture BTW.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 09:03 PM
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Other XK owners have noted that the crossmember is easy to confuse with the front radiator support. They are not the same. That is what Testpoint is alluding to.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by test point

Would you mind publishing your signature picture in a larger format?
Originally Posted by Jag#4

+1 on the larger sig picture BTW.
Those that don't have their minds on cross members should check this thread.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rintout-90695/
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 10:03 PM
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Lol you guys made Erica light up with joy. To be more specific, I've been lifting the car on that rubber strip is that fails, behind the arrow heading towards the rear. Is that the cross member?
 

Last edited by p-Rock; Mar 23, 2013 at 10:07 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 11:10 PM
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Here is a link to Rev. Sam's (my go-to guy for how-to) video on jacking up the front end. It shows that crossmember very well and he talks about the plastic covering as well.

Hope this helps.


p.s. tell Erica the joy is all mine and glad she took it as the compliment it was.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 11:24 PM
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Looks like that is where I've been lifting it. I think I've even lifted it behind the rubber strip where Sam's jack is on the same piece of plastic where the torque bolts hold the plastic cover on. And of course Erica said thank youuu with a big blush
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 10:48 AM
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I am pretty certain that in Rev Sams' video, he is lifting by the radiator support beam. I use that point as well; however, I first drive up on ramps and REMOVE the plastic valence, and then I use a length of wood 4x4 about 15 inches long to distribute the load.

Here is a link from a certified Jag Tech, who uses the radiator support beam:
http://www.justanswer.com/jaguar/3w4...nt-jaguar.html

All sources warn against using the aluminum crossmember (engine cradle) to lift. So the only subframe crossmember remaining that could be used to lift the front end is the u-shaped steel channel which runs between the lower control arms and is attached to the aluminum crossmember by the same bolts that attach the lower control arms to the crossmember. This piece does not appear to be strong enough to support the weight of the front end, especially using a single point in the center. Plus it is bolted to the aluminum crossmember so I would exclude it as a candidate. Once I experimented using this location to lift, but stopped immediately after I noticed the channel beginning to flex.
 

Last edited by GordoCatCar; Mar 24, 2013 at 11:23 AM.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 11:51 AM
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Hi all, I do exactly the same as GordoCatCar, only take a few minutes to remove plastic valance and then use a small length of wood to spread the load on the trolley jack, well worth the effort

Bob
 
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:11 PM
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Indeed so..... I've been using a race jack with a very small head on it, so it probably crunched it a good bit but I guess you live and learn. Just hope I didn't do any major damage to components
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 12:03 AM
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w/o taking off the plastic, I've been using a short piece of 2x4 on the floor jack, but placed lengthwise just behind the rubberstrip. It spreads out the force and doesn't break/deform that rubber strip that comes on each brand new $240 plastic undertray (this is my 3rd part to install in my ownership, so I'm being more cautious as prices escalate)
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 12:22 AM
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I haven't damaged the cover too bad, but I've been a little concerned about warping the crossmember and tweaking the suspension. I've lifted it many times where the rubber strip is and right behind it where the torque bolts are for the valence.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 08:07 AM
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I've lifted our XK8 at the crossmember a number of times, but I always use an 18-inch piece of 2-by-4 lumber balanced across my floor jack to help spread the load. I prefer to drive up on my Rhino Ramps and work that way, but obviously I can't do that when I need to pull the wheels....

As several have already mentioned, the key is to spread the load whenever you jack it up....
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 10:03 AM
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I guess the biggest question is if there is anything I could have possibly damaged by not spreading the load out as others have stated.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by p-Rock
I guess the biggest question is if there is anything I could have possibly damaged by not spreading the load out as others have stated.
I wouldn't worry. All the important pickup points, eg. suspension, engine mounts, etc. come off the aluminum crossmember which would not be affected by the small amount of deflection to the radiator support beam shown in your pic. If there were any damage from the radiator support it would probably show up in body panel fit. If your hood seam is straight and even, then I wouldn't worry.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 03:44 PM
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p-Rock,
YOU really need to enlarge that pic!!
 
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