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Shift box gasket (Illumination module gasket)-- in search for
Listed as a separate part for the x308 Part number LNC6197AA. But our x100s its part of the whole shift area. This gasket crumbles for everyone, and I'm hoping to find someone who has a decent one that I may borrow to digitally create a CAD of it for us to 3D print. Even perfect top and bottom images would help. I plan to give the file to anyone who wants it.
Last edited by Julian Black; Jul 15, 2022 at 05:45 PM.
Listed as a separate part for the x308 Part number LNC6197AA. But our x100s its part of the whole shift area. This gasket crumbles for everyone, and I'm hoping to find someone who has a decent one that I may borrow to digitally create a CAD of it for us to 3D print. Even perfect top and bottom images would help. I plan to give the file to anyone who wants it.
Maaaaan,,, hate to hijack, but can you print the top plate? XKR style D and 5 kind of plate??? If you can, and I were YOU, I might sell em. They are needed! Lots of em!
Just don't turn into a maniac like Greg Brown on Rennlist, lol
Last edited by JayJagJay; Jul 15, 2022 at 05:42 PM.
@JayJagJay The plate is an easy shape to print, but it needs the opaque tampo print that is all the black area. The piece is actually white translucent plastic with the black being pad printed color on top with gear numbers/letters and fancy deco line being the negative non printed areas. There is also some kind of light enhancing "bubble" beneath every area that a gear number/letter is on. I'll try to scan mine so I have the contour shape, then see if cutting out the numbers/letters is fine (like the homemade metal ones). The fancy deco line would be sacrificed. If I do it nicely, i would just give the STL away here. and/or 3D print it for folks for price of resin. Lemme see how scan comes out..
Last edited by Julian Black; Jul 15, 2022 at 06:15 PM.
@JayJagJay The plate is an easy shape to print, but it needs the opaque tampo print that is all the black area. The piece is actually white translucent plastic with the black being pad printed color on top with gear numbers/letters and fancy deco line being the negative non printed areas. There is also some kind of light enhancing "bubble" beneath every area that a gear number/letter is on. I'll try to scan mine so I have the contour shape, then see if cutting out the numbers/letters is fine (like the homemade metal ones). The fancy deco line would be sacrificed. If I do it nicely, i would just give the STL away here. and/or 3D print it for folks for price of resin. Lemme see how scan comes out..
Damn Dude! You sound like you know your stuff...
If ya could,,, people would be ringing ya!
I'll stay tuned. Fo sho!
@motorcarman This is true, but the tooling was all the same for all parts. The gears spacing was the only thing changed. You can use gasket with no visual difference, interchangeably with x308's and x100 4.0 and 4.2s. Its just hunting out a new old stock one. All used ones are garbage by now.
Last edited by Julian Black; Jul 15, 2022 at 08:34 PM.
@JayJagJay LOL, Thanks, I'll give it a shot. But just know a plate from an older x100 or an x308 will fit. It's all the same tooling. You just will lose the little "5" number. Or get that older plate used and remove the black painted area of the 3 and 4 gear numbers. then have an opaque vinyl decal made with correct gear numbers 3,4, and 5 remaining in clear.
Last edited by Julian Black; Jul 15, 2022 at 08:36 PM.
@JayJagJay LOL, Thanks, I'll give it a shot. But just know a plate from an older x100 or an x308 will fit. It's all the same tooling. You just will lose the little "5" number. Or get that older plate used and remove the black painted area of the 3 and 4 gear numbers. then have an opaque vinyl decal made with correct gear numbers 3,4, and 5 remaining in clear.
Good Morning, Man...
Hmm. I do in fact have an older 5 speed x100 shift bezel. It's laying around here somewhere... So let me see if I have this right...
First thing that comes to mind is electrics... Won't the car be trying to send a signal to light that "5", and if it can't find it, then what? I thought there was some coordination EVEN between that lighting in the bezel, the linear switch and and and, in the shifter...
What about the connector?
2nd question has to do with the mechanical action of the plate UNDER the bezel (works with a micro switch I believe) that triggers/signals the TCM to know that one just went into MANUAL at the stick. Is the alignment of that wheel/disc there the same x100 4.0 - 4.2? Is that wheel/disc a part of the bezel or entire shift assembly? Would the older x100 bezel accept the x100 4.2 wheel/disc?
And last, what chemical could gently remove the black paint or coating on the bezel without melting the plastic below? It's such a visible area - my question to myself - is it worth it to me to replace something that is cracked and unsightly with something that looks MELTED and unsightly, lol...
My experience is everything that will FIT, don't always FIT, if ya catch my drift.... Ask my XJS that hates me. One example, the eBay market. I can find 14 different speedometers (the dial itself) that will "fit". But gooooodness knows 13 AIN'T gunna tell me how fast I'm going, hahaha... The pain has been real, lol
@JayJagJay LOL, you're digging in too deep my friend. Its much more simple. All you want to do is replace JUST the face plate. The mechanics, LED light board and the white plastic light director box thing all stay put. The only issue would be the back of face place has some little "bubble" bumps to enhance the LEDS. May have to cut away the bubble under number 3 so it snaps over the white plastic light director thing. No issue cuz that white plastic thing will still direct the light to proper area on face plate. And it will be fine once you make and apply decal for the numbers placements. (note the metal plates dont even have these "bubbles" on back). PS the foil on back of my plate is to stop light seeping through a glued and painted crack I have. And I dont use the 3 screws to hold it together, just only secure by the face plate's snap clips. That way I can now remove plate from top without another big operation, when time comes to change a light bulb or fish out a stray French Fry!
As far as paint removal, dont use any chemical. You only want to remove the black from just the areas of number to be changed. Just use an Exacto blade and scrape off the paint as small as possible.
Last edited by Julian Black; Jul 16, 2022 at 04:18 PM.
Made decal print to change 4 speed face plate to 5 speed face plate. The closely sized 300 DPI PNG and AI Outlined Files are here, for anyone who wants to try this. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/39p8qblv3...t3YNc0z5a?dl=0
Last edited by Julian Black; Jul 16, 2022 at 06:02 PM.
Hello, news of the LNC6197AA did you find a solution in 3d?
thank you
Nothing great yet. I found one that was in OK shape and was priced OK (gotta buy whole gear selector, only 4.0 avail, and since mine is a 4.2 the rest of parts are useless). They are all too fragile and weird shaped to scan. I did place this in car and rebuilt the broken areas, using silicone glue fill and pieces of shrink tube for walls. I would like to find another that doesn't fall apart at touch and try silicone molding it.