It looks from the 'rubber' chunks on the driveway that my 4 year old shock bushings are falling apart, and must be replaced. Getting the coil-over out was not fun, to be sure, but compressing those conical springs was a real struggle. I needed my two compressors plus another set from Zone (really three units needed) and many resets and jam-ups involved. Couldn't get wrenches onto the compressor. About 4 hours of compression each side. It was a nightmare (and rather threatening, most of the time). So definitely looking in the area for a shop with a wall mounted professional compressor, but this part of Georgia doesn't offer much unless the vehical is a Ford or Chevvy truck. Has anyone any advice to offer on a brand of compressor thin enough to provide clearance between the coils etc? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

 

NO spring compressor required if you do the job as described more than a decade ago.

A forum search will yield a suggestion about bending the triangle plate for lower control arm clearance.

 

You are on the right track, 3 or more are needed for compressing the spring to get it where the top is loose. No need to go any further. We used the Autozone ones and yes its a pain to get a wrench on them.
If you have a friend with a press, we had the best luck getting it fully extended and the three studs on the bottom with a hole in one brace for a stud and the others are up against the other one. It's a pain to bet the shock stud back in the hole and requires a good light and a wrench to guide it into the washer, the head of the stud wants to catch on the washer shelf. If you use this system be sure and chain the spring to the side of the press away from you, do it tight. This is a dangerous job on a good day.
There are several places to buy a hydraulic or screw type strut compressor, a few around the $100 mark. I think if you get to be good at it you can pay for one the first time you help out a buddy. The one I got from Veron (I think that was it), it took some effort to get it in the right orientation, first of the seals blew on the jack, so not giving it a 5 for sure.
If I can help, give me a PM and a time with a phone number and I will try my best to be there for you.

 

Thanks. I must not have been clear: As best I remember the nightmare, getting the coil-over assembly out took half a day, and so I'll definitely look into the plate bending solution to reduce that. The other half of the day was taken up by compressing the spring in order to remove / replace the upper mount / bushing assembly replaced. That is where the arc-shaped pieces of rubber on the driveway seem to be coming from. Four years old, these rubber fragments (plastic, actually) are so brittle they can be snapped with the fingers.
The next half day was taken up with a futile attempt to replace the lower bushing (which I finally took to a shop with a press, and paid to get replaced), and the final half day was re-installing the shock assy. Repeat the following weekend!

 

OP's mention of conical springs and coilover would indicate front not rear, but neither was actually referenced.

 

Baxtor: Correct. The deteriorating rubber bushings are part of the pucks next to the springs, the at the top of the front conical spring / shock ''tower's. I don't think the rears have anything like those pucks on the front.
CJD777 Many thanks for the input and the offer. I watched Rev Sam's video on this before I attempted it, and thought I had made enough concessions to age at the time (I didn't), but with 80 looming and knowing what's ahead, I am must admit that I'm rather dreading the project! BTW, I did make a rope adapter device that screws onto the shock stud, for the purpose of taking the weight off the beast when re-installing. Now, if only I can remember where I put it!

 

I strongly suggest messaging Wayne (CJD777) regarding the replacement bushings and spring pads. You don't want to be doing the job again in another 4 years.

 

OK, now I'm a bit confused. LOL

 

Wayne, l read it as a trashed top front mount job.
Spring pad and possibly plastic fitting at bottom of spring also in pieces.

 

Is there anywhere in the UK that makes a polytop mount for the shocks? Would it be a problem to just mount it solid to the strut tower? Ride would be harsher perhaps but with 18" wheels isntead of 20" that might negate it?

 

The first photo is how the compressor was as I bought it. Didn't work well AT ALL. Couldn't hold on to the spring and you can see why. Second pic shows the attachments I had made it's an easy peasy 10 minute job once the strut is out. MUCH safer too. I will not struggle with this stuff anymore. I have managed to make it work for another car or 2. All struts are not created equal. TM

 

I made up a compressor that locks on to the lower spring seat, very secure and eliminates the issue of the lower coils being small diameter and tight coils.

 

Baxtor's solution looks to be the most secure (and safest) thus far. Wayne has the same freestanding device as Tom and also made a few mods to it, but that thing can still be quite scary....

 

REALLY like your solution, Baxtor! Where were you 4 weeks ago when I did mine? (I know - other side of the planet...)

I rented a coil spring compressor from Advance Auto that appeared to be more secure than the "hook" types. Got one side done without any problem, but the second time around one of the clamps started pulling away from the coil. I started to loosen them in order to reset it and it gave way like a gunshot; caught my ring finger, right hand just at the tip. Hurt like all get-out! And still tender. But at least it's done! Truly lucky it was just my finger. Pretty sure I won't have to do this again, but if so, it's going to a machine shop!

Be careful with those things!

 

I used the wall mounted compressor at the local "American Do It Yourself Garage" another option is to take the assembly to a suspension shop and have them do it for a minimal charge. Don't overtighten the top nut, we sheared the threads off of the shock piston so now I can do the first side over again to replace that shock. If you have active suspension the torque on the top nut is only 12.5 lb. /ft.