Mr overflow…..op(original poster)

take heed with trans fluid change, valve upgrades etc.

first, ensure all changes to trans components were done properly and seals were seated properly. (I did the trans go pressure regulator valve upgrade myself as a precaution) I found the split seals don’t wanna stay put perfectly when installing, so I put components in the freezer for
a few hours to both shrink and stiffen up. Then when putting them on the valve I used some Vaseline, it’s thick enough and tacky enough to hold the split seals/o rings in place for installation, but will dissolve in trans fluid causing no issues later.
second, after researching the topic quite thoroughly I opted for the original speced fluid )febi atf) expensive, yes. Hard to get in USA, not really.
third, follow the crazy oem process of replacing fluid as best as you can. I jacked up front of car and put the rear on jackstands keeping level front to back. I removed fill plug and pumped in fluid with a ten dollar hand pump till spilling out fill hole. I then started car, and had my neighbor cycle through gears while i continued pumping in fluids, once it came out fill hole I plugged with bolt and let cool. I didn’t have proper scan tool for temp readings or even infrared gun. I waited a few hours to cool. Then I did whole thing again. Afterwards, went for a few short drives and could tell something was off/wrong. I ordered more
fluid and did it all again still with no temp readings, and managed to get about a quart and a half more in. Next test ride, I could feel and hear the difference. Did about 200 miles and drained fluid out again(not dropping pan this time) and refilled twice more….holy **** what a difference!

go to Amazon and search for the proper fluid. It’s worth it. And read up on proper procedures and do the best you can, you’ll see the difference.

If the trans was fine before, and you researched enough to get the trans go kit, you obviously dropped the pan and valve body to do it. Hopefully you changed the trans filter while in there, and sealed up the pan with new gasket. Why you opted for an “equivalent” cheaper fluid is beyond me, but in my research I found so much confusion and conflicting info I just went for the original speced fluid, and yeah it’s a little more expensive than “equivalent” fluids, but it’s cheaper than replacing or rebuilding a trans in these cars

 

Hi stevis05,

Just to be clear, the original specification fluid was ESSO LT 71141, which has been re-named Mobil LT 71141. Febi Bilstein Automatikgetriebeöl (ATF) nr. 29738 is an aftermarket fluid but we have proven it to be equivalent to ESSO LT 71141. For other known-correct fluids, see Post #11.

The fluid fill procedure does seem crazy to those of us accustomed to transmissions with dipsticks, but these days, transmission (and even engine oil) dipsticks are virtually a thing of the past, and the majority of transmissions require the fluid level to be set at a specific temperature or within a specific temperature range. So this is just something we've all had to adapt to.

Thank you for sharing your experience of attempting the fluid change without a means of measuring the fluid temperature. Your account is a perfect example of why this should never be attempted. Amazon offers infrared thermometer guns starting at USD $9.99 and Harbor Freight has them starting at $22.99, so there's really no excuse for attempting this job by guesswork and potentially damaging the transmission.

When using an infrared thermometer, the beam should be aimed at the fluid emerging from the fill hole for the most accurate temperature reading. The metal fluid pan dissipates heat, and its temperature will typically be cooler than the fluid temperature, so aiming the thermometer at the pan may lead to an incorrect fill level.

Cheers,

Don

 

Good news!!! Turns out following instructions works! I got the correct fluid thanks to you guys, filled, went through the gears, topped up, the fluid out of the fill hole was at about 38c , flowing out as borderline single drops, still a very very thin stream. Now there is not grinding! There are clicks that sound like the same clicks cars make when they are cooling down but even when idling or driving sometimes, not sure if the fluid still needs to settle in or something but overall besides those clicks that hopefully go away it feels great!!

 

Try making an audio recording and post it up here. Did you replace the trans filter when you did the pressure valve? If so, was it an OEM part?

 

Yes i replaced the filter and the pan gasket while i was down there, it was one of the kits on parts geek I believe. The clicking sounds exactly like when an exhaust is cooling down but more frequently than before I feel like. More concerning though, when giving it about 50-60% throttle, right before it shifts out of 1st, its grinding again. When cruising no grind, but during harder acceleration it does. None of the other gears do it. Only going into first with a little bit more throttle never any other time. This video on YouTube seems to be the same noise. The first attempt i went about 100 feet before pushing it back to the garage. 2nd attempt i went about 20 miles before calling it and returning it to the garage, with this latest attempt I've gone about 5 miles listening to the transmission and while its improving with each attempt this one grind remains. I would also say mine is slightly quieter than this one and the noise goes away quicker than this one

 

Hi,
I can't hear anything untoward in that clip - somebody with better hearing may chip in.

There have been issues with non-OEM trans filters. Take a look at this thread from Katlover:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post2263598

If you can't determine whether the part you fitted is OE, then I'd suggest repeating the exercise with the correct filter and fresh fluid. A second drain/fill is recommended (usually after a few hundred miles) anyway as it will further dilute the old trans fluid (a simple drain & fill doesn't catch the fluid retained in the torque converter).