We have all read the nightmare it is to change a O2 sensor connection, not so much the O2 sensor itself.

Lucky for me I read all the threads from members that were so kind to give their experience to the Forum members.

Things that really helped, laying on the engine with some pads and blanket. I had more trouble adjusting the lights to cover the area I was working on and the hands being in the way of the light, what a real pain. No one could explain to me why the clips that the connected assembly slide onto is behind the bracket in the middle of the firewall. LOL, I Thank the guy who invented 8-inch needle nose pliers.

Getting the connector apart turned out to be interesting. Push as I much as I could, the clip on the side was not going to move enough to get the connection apart, but spraying it with WD-40 and waiting a few minutes, then using a small 1/8-inch wide 4-inch screwdriver between the clip and the side of connection with a prying motion it slipped apart very easy.

Don’t forget the uppers are cream color in my case, some say gray, lowers are black. I did follow the suggestion on a thin string or in my case a wire attached to the wire to pull down to the sensor, it really helped in getting it back in place.

The sensor itself was supposed to be a 22MM, for some reason my 22-7/8 socket was not only a loose fit, but it was also wobbly. trying all the 7/8 ones I have, one was cut at the right angle to give me a 3-inch pull and that was enough to break it and then is was easy to hand turn it out. Getting it tight was almost as much trouble, used a couple of connected wrenches to get a good tight fit.

When getting the sensor for the upper, I ran into all kinds of advice and most pointed to the Denso 234-9016 which runs in all kinds of directions for cost, none in a reasonable price range. I got anywhere from $179 to $312. With a bit of research, I found that most of the cars came with a Denso 192400 3101and they were all in the $100 range, I can live with that. As it turned out, when I got my sensor out, it was the 192400 3101, so a good guess.

Right now I need to get the car down off the stands, I did the shocks and mounts front and rear and sway bar end links and need to bring it down and roll it around and torque the suspension, painful but don’t want to do any of the torque requirements with the suspension hanging down. I run the lug nuts up with a speed wrench and take the car around the driveway a few times, jack each wheel up enough to clear the ground and torque all the areas there, install wheel, then get the lugs tight, drop it on the ground and torque the lugs to specs. Time consuming but don’t have a roll-on lift.

That’s my experience and would not like to do this for a living. l am nearing 85 and with luck a few more is my limit.

 

Well done Wayne. You may be pushing 85, but you can easily out-work many 50-year-olds. Not much fun in this miserable heat I know (nearly 100 degrees here this afternoon) so stay in the shade as much as you can and stay hydrated....

 

Wayne,
Thanks for the write-up.
I did my upper driver side six years ago, but did not make any notes. So, I added your write-up to my notes.
Also, a tip I picked up along the way, is to use ( and store) a wide stainless worm drive hose clamp around my split O2 socket to restrain it from spreading out in use on ornery sensors.

 

thanks for the write-up Wayne - upper and lowers are on my list of to do's

 

Wayne, we all are impressed with your ability to perform various tasks. #1 being the Poly Mounts and follow ups. Always enjoy our conversations with the background commentary. Ha.

 

I get worn out just reading about what he did.

Wayne has 11 years on me. But I likely have more milage on my old carcass.

Z

 

Great job, Wayne, and THANK YOU for sharing the great tips that will help the rest of us for many years to come.

I think you've earned a professional massage!

Cheers,

Don

 

Did you do both sides?

 

No, but I understand the right side might be a bit easier, as you don't have to remove the water tank and hoses.
Refilling the water system requires a lot of pumping of the hoses to get all the air out at the top of the thermostat housing. Then filling the tank and cocking open the top again to bleed the air off. I do know the line for the connection was a little more accessible to the side of that crazy bracket.
OH, be sure and put the hood (bonnet) in the service position, more room to lay down on the engine bay.

 

Nice

 

Small comfort now, but I did my upper O2 sensors without removing the reservoir or hoses, just the intake. I went through the AC drain holes in the dash with a big extension, which lets you get a socket and a breaker bar onto the sensors from within the cabin.I tied string to the O2 sensor connectors to create a fish line so when i replaced them I could fish the connectors through with the string.

 

I did read your thread showing the inside route and see the advantage.
Being a one man show, I thought I might be able to get to the sensor from the top, after all it was right there. LOL
Maybe next time, if I have someone to guide the extension onto the sensor. Not sure my body can get into the foot well anymore.
Thanks.

 

Wayne,
A belated thanks from me too.

Hope I'm as agile as you when it's my turn for this job.

Luckily I've no lowers to worry about.

 

Bravo, job well done, Wayne. I had no doubt you would get it all straightened out and put back together. I'm sure you had no intention of doing this in this heat but, things always take longer than you think they will.That's my luck anyway. lol

 

Andrew, is yours still preforming as it should?
I seem to remember you using the 234 9029? on the top one or am I not remembering correctly?
I was hoping to see you but way too hot for walking on the beach, later for sure.

 

Wayne, my car has been great no more o2 sensor issues. Yea
I think when you were looking for your sensor I looked it up on the Denso site/list since that’s where I found the correct one for my car. Don’t forget I also have an 03/4.2lL so mine may be different. I’m glad you guessed right on the part number you needed and everything is back to working the way it should.

Don’t think you’re the only one that struggled with the plug ends and the way they’re mounted to the firewall it took me a half hour of pulling and gently prying while also trying not break anything else in the process. I’m sure if either of us had to do it again it would be a lot faster but, isn’t that the way it is? Hopefully it’s a job I never need to do again.

It’s funny you mentioned taking trips because I was ready to hit the open road this summer since I feel my car is up to it. Now I’m kicking myself for not taking advantage of the awesome spring weather we had. Then again I got a lot of big projects crossed off my list so it’s not like the nice days went to waste. Anyways, I’m 100% planning a trip to see you Wayne even if it waits till fall. Of course you know if you’re heading my way you always have an open invitation. Stay well and say hi to Christine for me.

 

It's been over a week since the O2 sensor replacement and thought I should give the results on the Denso one I used.
Before starting the car, I cleared the code, turned everything off and waited a few minutes. Started it up and no code light on the dash. What a relief.
I was a bit worried about the speed sensors, took all of those out and cleaned with soap and water and soft brush. Just part of your process if you are doing shocks or mounts. I always worry about touching any sensor, just me.
Oh, they turned out great, ride height after only 20 miles is 16-inch front 16 7/8-inch rear, the car looks very level and lost the front rack, it was 14 3/4- inches, really worn out.
After I finished, I was concerned I have been neglecting the sway bar bushings. I checked them when torquing all the other stuff and had to pry pretty good to get any movement. As stated earlier, the links were replaced, front and rear.
Thanks for all the good comments, Wayne

 

Well done....