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Guys, keep in mind that you must house, clothe, and feed your minions. Is the occasional need for a minion worth it to you? Think carefully before deciding....
Guys, keep in mind that you must house, clothe, and feed your minions. Is the occasional need for a minion worth it to you? Think carefully before deciding....
But, more importantly, the emotional price that must be paid.
I wanted to fit a new rear lower shock absorber bush but the nut on the big bolt that goes through it just span. Clearly either the nut or the bolt had stripped thread. I wanted to do it gracefully but after trying all sort of spannery tricks, I tried a dremel and when that failed I got the angle grinder out to cut the nut up. Being on the drive on my back didn't make it any easier. Four hours in all.
I assume some gorilla over tightened it and stretched the bolt and so the nut had nothing to grip onto.
Made me think about how careful one should be about tightening.
I've learned that all jobs replacing sensors on the XK8s must invariably also involve replacing the fragile/friable connector ... and assorted other "entertaining" diversions. As it was today replacing the coolant temperature sensor, truly a 60 second job.
About a week ago, I went to replace a coolant temperature sensor and found the old broken connector RTVed to the sensor (see below). This necessitated about three days waiting for the "new" connectors from Mouser (ordered 4).
At this point, who knew that the Econoseal E J2 had an ASSY B and an ASSY D version that are the same except for the slots? So, lesson learned (thankfully the ASSY A and ASSY C versions must have disappeared with the last industry consolidation), I waited three days for the "new new" connectors from Mouser (ordered 4).
The "new new" connector perfectly fit the sensor I ordered from Rock Auto. So, I popped the pins in the old connector, installed them in the "new new" connector and prepared to unscrew and rescrew quickly.
Unfortunately, 25 seconds into the operation, coolant flowing from the hole, it became apparent that the sensor from Rock Auto did not fit the hole in the water rail. Hmm. There are two sizes of sensors for this?
So, disgusted, I sent a minion to Autozone who returned with a sensor that looked like mine. And, good news, the "new new" connectors don't fit, but the "new" connectors fit.
So, I popped the pins on the "new new" connector and installed the "new" connector and replaced the sensor.
So, 60 second job = 60 seconds staring at the old connector wondering how many broken connectors are left on my cars (afraid the answer is "all of them"), 1 minute looking in the electrical diagram to identify the connector, 2 x10 minutes looking for connectors at Digikey and Mouser, 2 x 2 minutes opening packages, 20 minutes popping pins and replacing connectors (18 min finding the right pin popper, 1 minute each popping pins), 20 minutes going to get new sensor (admittedly I sent someone, so it's not my time, but I could have had them plowing the back 40), 1 minute replacing the sensor.
Without counting the week waiting for connectors, that's 67 minutes for a one minute job. 67X actual/theoretical seems about right.
Out with the old
In with the 'new', not the 'new new'.
Crbass - know the feeling on this job. Link to my thread below.
Fascinatingly similar experience. Interestingly, the connector in the coolant sensor I installed had no slots at all, compatible with both versions. So there is also that…
Things just went south with my daily driver (hahaha Airmatic) and now my backburnered nuisance "Engine Coolant Low" issue has become a frontburnered issue.
Per suggestion, I replaced the coolant cap with the OEM - it made no difference (other than lightening my wallet to the tune of $55).
I've checked the reservoir in the wheel well - it looks fine and has an appropriate amount of coolant and its cap is on firmly, so I figure next step is to replace the Coolant Overflow Tank & Sensor. Do we have a good guide for this process somewhere?
I'd also like to replace the hose leading to the wheel well - it's the same plastic as the little hose that runs from the thermostat tower to the overflow tank and I've snapped that before, so I'm thinking it's probably old, brittle and possibly cracked somewhere along its length... but I can't find a part number. Any suggestions on replacing this?
Who charged $55 for an OEM coolant reservoir cap? They are typically available online for $22 to $25. At least they were the last time I looked (several years ago)....
I jus replaced my coolant tank and a crossover line. Had been getting a "Coolant Low" light for a while with the tank topped off. Small leak in crossover line, so it went. Replacing the tank, now have a clean instrument panel(sort of). Float in the tank seems to stick.
