So I bought an XK8 that had A broken timing chain when I got into it the cylinder head he’s got deep beat marks from a valve that was broke off on number three and the rest of the valves don’t look so good and there’s beat marks in the piston. I have multiple XJ8 here one of them is a wrecked and A broken timing chain when I got into it the cylinder head that’s got deep beat marks from a valve that was broke off on number three and the rest of the valves don’t look so good and there’s beat marks in the piston. I have multiple XJ8 here one of them is a wrecked 2001 It has 160,000 miles on it and I’m putting it in the car that has only 60,000 milesMy questions that I need to ask is in order to do the swap they’re both J 27 engines what am I looking at extra to change and make this happen. It has been suggested that they should be a plug and play thing but I haven’t swapped in Asian for year my questions that I need to ask is in order to do the swap they’re both J 27 engines what am I looking at extra to change and make this happen. It has been suggested that they should be a plug and play thing but I was wondering if I can get some information from experience. The other motor that I want to install runs doesn’t smoke looks to have had good maintenance and there’s no noise or anything the rear end collision looks like it put the energy over the top of the trunk taking out the back window car radio etc. thanks in advance

 

This gentleman is from the x308 forum. He just bought his first xk8. It's a good looking coupe with low miles. It had tensioner failure. He has an xj8 that is totaled and wants confirmation of my telling him that it would be a plug and play swap between the xj aand the xk. There are a few differences in some of the accessories like the radiator hoses. Please give your opinions and any other ideas.

Thanks,

Bob

 

So when I Google engine swap . The only thing that comes up is how to put a 350 engine in it. And I’m not gonna do that I got some information on the outside that is steer me in a pretty good Direction. The XK8 was built in May 2001 the total XJ rear end collision was built in October 2001 I think they’re compatible it’s got a different connection for a vacuum line going to the power brakes and a couple different colored wires in the wiring harness for the fuel injectors but I think that’s the same. I Plan on pulling The top. It is two extractions and one replace/install. I plan on just taking the engines out and leaving the transmissions there. Getting the engines apply enough and the disconnect in the air conditioning and disconnect the power steering Then leaving that in the car wired up. I think I’m going to do the first removal on the donor car and then it’ll be fresher in my mind when I do the other one

 

Do you happen to have a lift. I found it is a lot easier to remove the engine, transmission, and subframe as one unit.

 

Yes I have a two post lift...

 

 

Hell with the Jag. What is the antique on the other side of the lift?

Have you taken the engine or transmission out of an xj8?

 

ALL AJ27 engines will swap in 'PLUG & PLAY'.

 

The other car is a 1920 model T Ford it runs ...no interior mice ate it 50 years ago...I have done one transmission r and r

 

Dropping the powertrain out the bottom is easy EXCEPT for the steering column!!!!!!!!
It DOES get in the way!!!

 

Yes I am interested in trying it this time out the bottom would I be able to leave the wiring harness on the motor and just disconnect it off of the firewall? Where that 10 mm bolt is ? Is there any link to a manual to do this one? Sometime next week I’ll put the smashed up one on the lift and try taking out the drivetrain that way.

 

I made a table that is shown below.



Pardon my junk.

I take everything loose and lift the car off the subframe. Yes the engine harness stays on the engine.

 

Looks like I’m gonna need to make a table with some wheels on the bottom. And interesting to your picture is that the downspout Cadillac converter‘s can stay on the motor that’s a plus and the harness to that’s a plus. Do you leave the radiator in the car for the removal and just take out the fan shroud and fan motor etc. What about the few fuel Lines and transmission lines running under the whole thing do you just disconnect them and leave them hanging they don’t go through the motor sub frame etc.? This is helpful thanks

 

I have HARBOR FREIGHT hydraulic lift tables, One is the 1,000 lb and the other is the 500 lb.

The 1,000 lb will handle the front suspension and the engine, the 500 lb will handle the gearbox.

When you separate the two they can be 'wheeled-apart' on the tables.

They can also be adjusted in height and then lowed when the body is clear.
Pluck the engine from the subframe and set the replacement back on!!!

 

Can you tell me the height of the 1000lb table in its collapsed state?
I need to pull my transmission (xk8). NO lift only floor jacks and jack stands...I'm trying to determine by best approach.
thanks
wj

 

I can measure the collapsed height in the morning but I can tell you right now that the car will need to be 3 or 4 feet off the ground to use anything other than a floor jack with a block of wood or adapter for a trans.

 

​​​​​​I'll just add my 2cents here. Not giving advise, but just to say. I recently pulled and replaced an engine from an SType and XK8. Both, hood off, valve covers off (made it easier to get to exhaust bolts at the top - even though those gave me trouble - was super easy. Rad out. The XK8 engine and trans were lite and lifted straight out of the car. It's a beautiful motor. With it out of the car everything is just right there. You'll have no need to fight with strange angle under the car and limited space, prybars and the plain danger of having the weight of the car over you for hours.

One of those engine hoist leveling brakets is needed. A skateboard on the floor to allow butt end of trans to roll out and in etc,,, these sorts of things - but it was surprisingly easy.

I was working on an uneven dirt floor with plywood runners. A flat hard surface and it would have been cake. Of course I had some misadventures. One was not my fault (I swear, lol) and the other had to do with old bolts on the tips of the CATS. Drilled those out and replaced them.

 

I guess I need to ponder this a bit longer.
If I pull the motor+trans my planned repair will get far more involved, but needed. Hoses: oil, atf, water Front engine seal....
I'll just need to come to grips of not driving it for a lot longer as I only work on it when time allows (not too much at the moment)

wj

 

This might sound nutts but with mishaps and less than ideal working environment it took (would have without a cracked trans cooler IN RAD coupling that filled the trans with coolant) 2 and a half days. Again, I'm no expert but just throwing the idea out there. Also gives full and complete access to the engine bay...

 

It's all good!
I have a crane over in the corner behind 'stuff'. Plenty of floor space, 12' ceiling. (even a 1/2 ton electric winch in the trusses)
No Time and no $ to pay others...so...life goes on.
wj