I'm new here, and new to Jag ownership, but thought I'd share the story of rescuing a convertible XK8, as I go along. I've done many projects, but usually fail to write them up. The car was 'found' residing by a hedge where it had lain for two years. It's now in my driveway, having been moved on a trailer.

I'll add pictures when I figure out how to get them off my phone.

Using research from this forum, I think I've identified the issues as follows:

It's a Nikasil engine with 52,500 miles on it.

Apart from needing a good clean…

Error Codes
Connecting the computer to the car showed up the following error codes.
• P0352 code: Ignition coil ‘A2’ needs replacing or is suffering oil ingress.
• P1646 code: -linear 02 sensor chip (bank1}. Lambda probe on right bank of cylinders.
• P1111 code: I think means everything else is fine, so hopefully no gearbox selection issues.

Engine: Oil and water levels look ok at the moment, but various cans of oil in the boot indicate that it isn't oil tight. Under the bonnet I found...
• Significant front crankshaft oil seal leak.
• Left bank camshaft cover front-minor leak and lower rear, a minor leak.
• Right bank camshaft cover front significant leak and rear minor leak.
I think the seals and gaskets needed are cheap enough (£50ish?) , but i think it’ll be about a day’s work to fit them if it comes apart easily.

The chains tensioners have not been changed and are still plastic. I think a kit of modified chain tensioner parts is £250, plus a day’s work to fit them.

The drive-belt that runs the alternator and water pump is very cracked and should be replaced. The idler pulley bearings are noisy and should also be replaced. I think the kit costs about £190 + a couple of hours fitting.

I believe the early water pumps have a history of losing vanes, which leads to overheating of the engine. Also the plastic thermostat housings are known to crack with age, leading to loss of water and overheating. A kit that contains all the upgraded parts is £168.

Gearbox: It seems to select forward and reverse without any clonking noises, so that’s good news, and the car moves as it should across the driveway.

I hear that the sealed for life gearbox fluid needs changing every 50,000 miles or the gearbox life can become not much more than 50,000 miles. The oil and gaskets are about £100, and it takes half a day as long as the bolts come out without damaging any threads.

Rust: Both footwells will need rust cutting out and new panels welding in. There’s a chance that the gearbox tunnel will also be rusty, but it’s impossible to tell without taking the carpet up.

In front of right rear suspension, it will need rust removal and cleaning up/painting. Rear suspension subframe may need removing to get behind it, and there may be more rust there, or there may not. Both rear wings in front of wheels are a little rusty, but look like they’ll clean up, even if a few small bits have fallen off.

Tyres: Have enough tread for an MOT, but as they’ve been flat for a while, the rubber has creased and I don't think they would not be considered safe for high-speed driving. The right front has chunks out of it and might not pass an MOT anyway.

Roof: It's green, but should be dark blue. It might clean up. It took scrubbing with a washing-up brush and then scraping off the layer of growth with an old credit card to find the material. I've applied some 'Boracol', used to kill algae on boat covers and it's looking much better already.

The roofs fluid has come out at the usual place in the header bar, so I am into a new pipe and replacing the fluid.

Interior: Err um… well… More mould than a students fridge. The doors were not closed properly as the battery was flat and the windows hadn't done the down/up as they close. As a result all the carpets and the door trims (maybe the door speakers too) will need replacing. The window switches on the doors have water damage too, but are working at the moment and the windows have been re-set to open and close properly as the doors are shut.

The passenger seat electric adjustment works, but the driver’s seat doesn’t, hopefully it’s just a dodgy connection in the control module somewhere. Seems common.

The front seat covers and door trim need replacing, probably best to buy some second hand and replace all the interior trim. It used to be used for transporting the owners dog as the dog got older and couldn't climb into a car any higher up.

The heater seems to work, which is good, as I've read they are also a regular source of problems as the secondary water pump for the heating is prone to leak and then seize up.

The battery holds a charge well, and is only a couple of years old.

Front Suspension: The left upper wishbone has significant play in it, enough to cause the front wheels to be out of alignment and occasionally knock, and I'm sure will also fail an mot. It’s been caused by the upper pivot turning where it shouldn’t, which has worn a hole in the front subframe into an oval shape instead of a round. Not sure whether to sleeve it or go for a second-hand subframe. The right side appears to be mechanically ok.

Both front brakes have new disc pads in them, but the discs themselves are no better than acceptable.

There is rust on both front chassis rails, above where the subframe is attached.

So that's about it for now.

It's planned to be ready for the middle of the summer....

More news as it happens....

 

Congratulations on rescuing one of Browns Lane's finest. It is a shame that people allow them to fall into such a state. You are either very brave or very foolish! From the detail of your post I suspect the former.


If you are doing the work yourself, you appear to have done the research already, but you might find the rust in the wheelarches a little more extensive. If you have a look at my recent thread you will see the worst case scenario. Good news is that wheelarch repair sections are now available from SNG Barratt and rear sill sections and floorpan repair sections can be obtained from a supplier in Kings Lynn.


Good luck with the restoration and keep us updated with plenty of pictures.

 

Forgot to add the link: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-****-132166/

 

But either way you have our support!

Here's another thread full of possibilities:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ration-131918/

 

Good luck on your endeavor. You have your hands full!
You may find mold to be extensive in that damp interior: carpet, underlayment, cushions, headliner, etc.
It's great that you are saving an XK8 from the crusher!

 

When you change the transmission fluid and filter replace the pressure regulator valve as advised by ZF. A very inexpensive part and only requires removal of the forward valve body, about 1 hr additional.

http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...%20ZF5HP24.pdf

 

Oddjob, Sorry you have to do all at once the things that should have been done over the last 10 years. It doesn't sound bad if you say it real quick.
Best of luck on the next summer finish, you must have a heated garage, spent some long winters in Bedford.
Keep us informed.


Wayne

 

Did the previous owner pay you to take it away?

 

Well done. I suspect you are a little like my younger self. I did take pleasure in finding something that should really be junked, or had been, and turning it around to something wonderful.
Do not forget to take absolutely loads of before/after photos or you will in time forget all the little detail you spent so much time over.
Good luck. I look forward to your reports and lots of photos.

 

I may, as it has been, suggested be a little on the foolish side of sensible with this one. On the other hand, adding this XK8 to the pile of ecologically unsound scrapped vehicles didn't seem right given that the Mrs has been recycling everything from milk top bottles upwards for the last 20 years. I have started less promising projects and won the battle.

We will see. I quite liked that it hadn't been molested or half bodged by anyone else. All the opportunity for bodging will be mine.

It does run, and it drives nicely, until the coil creates a misfire, then it goes into get me home slowly mode.

Part one was to get it home. Attached a couple of pics. I was surprised at how big it is. I usually use this trailer when I take the Triumph Spitfire on a hill-climb or sprint, but this dwarfed it.

Then there's a pic of it sitting in the driveway between the boat (new floorboard and outdrive repair project, nearly finished) and my son's MK2 VW Golf that he wants to modify for competition.

Roll on retirement, so many interesting things to do and so little time.



Crikey - that fills the trailer. Good job we only had a mile to go.




Even in the driveway it takes up a lot of space.

 

And no, that's not me standing next to the car, it's Jack, my 84 year old pit-crew and senior engineer. He learned engineering the 'proper' way, and makes sure I don't cut any corners. He also thinks I'm mad, but is up for the challenge, and loves the noise of the V8 when we start it. Invaluable..

 

Oddjob, You will find with retirement there is not enough time. How did I ever work will be your daily quote.
Love the car and I would have done the same, just wish I was there to help.


Wayne

 

oddjob, I think that we must contact Wikipedia and submit your name as the new definition of "Optimist".

The best of luck in your new Adventure.

 

Looking forward to this one.


Only an XK could look this good after festering in a hedge for 2 years.
Other + + + are that the car is low mileage and there don't appear to be any major engine/transmission problems.


Best of luck and please keep us all posted.
Mike


P.S. Does the plate come with the car?


P.P.S. Please ask your son to be kind to the Golf..

 

Oddjob, you are my new hero. Best of luck!

 

Somewhat worried by renaultvation's rust **** thread, I took a head torch, a wire brush and a sharp screwdriver out to the drive last night. The good news is that the rear wheelarches are not going to need the chop-out-and-rebuild that was done on his car, and the rear suspension mounting points just have a little surface rust on them. That's a relief. It looks like I've got quite a good rear end.

And also, the boracol has done an amazing job on the roof, within 24 hours it's now blue again instead of green. I'll have to wait for daylight to take a pic, and it's going to need cleaning again before being re-proofed as some of the growth has just died and stayed attached. These days I leave home in the dark and get back in the dark, so pics are a bit difficult.

Michaelh.. the plate belongs to the previous owner, and will go back I'm afraid. Otherwise it would be a good source of funds for parts, I'd sell it.

RJ237.. re the gearbox valve. That's good advice that I haven't seen before. It means I get to play with the insides of an auto-box. Yay! Haven't done that before.

Thanks all for the support. It'll go quiet until after Christmas now...

 

Probably cheaper to get a second hand subframe than sleeve it, good suframes are available from Home Page . Also when replacing the top arm bushes, don't make the same mistake as many here have done in the past and got the poly bushes from britishparts.co.uk, they are a disaster, steer well clear as they are such a poor fit. Better off with Powerflex poly bushes or OEM/"OEM like" bushes.


PS To get rid of the most stubborn green marks on my soft top I used two bottles of "Mr Muscle", it did a better job than any of the specialist products I had previously tried.

 

I thing this project is great. Go for it. Looking forward to follow-ons.

 

How often does one get to say that!

 

I have to show my ignorance here. Why would that particular plate bring money. Is it a vanity plate, Tidy Horsepower? (Best guess!)