Ok so process of elimination I’ve narrowed it down.
62 Mk II with a Frankenstein motor, as stated in other thread.

the car will start but won’t run.

It’s starting on the aux carb, but for some reason the carbs don’t provide fuel for running.

yet if I sweep my finger under the dash pot after trying to, it’s wet with gasoline.

so fuel is reaching the needle?

here’s a photo of how the jet was sitting, I’ve since adjusted it to be flush with the collar?


Jet on the front carb

Aux carb

Pair of SU HD6

 

Yes! The jet needs to be flush with the collar as a starting point for adjustment.

 

thanks for the sanity check.

after I set flush (or as close as I can see from above) - still won’t run beyond the aux carbs efforts.

 

Have you opened the float bowls to see how much fuel is in them?

 

I shall take a gander tonight or tomorrow and report back :-)

assuming that gas is there because there’s gas present on a finger sweep.

new floats and needles

 

That photo is showing the jet set extremely rich, it is not level with the jet bridge, I doubt if the car would even run with it like that, it would be flooding.

 

it doesn’t… hence my begging :-)

but I adjusted to be as flush as I can tell and still not running

 

It's supposed to be flush with the jet bridge initially, but then you turn in the "richness" screw 1.5 turns for the first start up. (doing this from memory, but I think it's 1.5 turns, check the manual and confirm that)
If the jet is level with the bridge, it's now too lean and the car will not start.
Red arrow is the jet bridge and the green arrow is the jet.

 

Ok, followed the advice given, front carb float height was out. Rear carb float was sticking… adjusted and tapped with a wrench. We have fuel delivery, backed out the jets 1.5 turns, starts!!

needs some peddle so need to adjust the idle screws but she will tick over.

Tachometer isn’t showing rpm and aux carb leaks like a sieve, but we’re running!

got a spare tachometer generator but it’s hard to remove in situ…

I’ll keep you posted.

 

Is the hood on? If so, if you remove it and the battery you get better access to the Tach generator. I'd also check the wiring to see if you have continuity to the tach.

Good to see that you got it running!

 

took the hood off, got one bolt out, going to remove a heater hose to get to the lower one.
put a bolt meter on it. And on turnover is producing 0.01v DC

bench testing my spares, produce 8-14v hand turning half a turn, depending on speed.

thanks!

 

Don't expect this engine to idle until its warmed up. Takes mine about 10 minutes with me using the pedal to hold the RPMs at 1,000 - 1,500 for that time. then she idles like a kitten.... So, don't adjust your idle screws until the engine is properly warmed up. Good Luck !
Schmitty

 

S Type manual says tach generator should produce 1 volt per 100 RPM. Connect one of your spares to the tach leads and spin the generator with a drill to see if you get a response from the tachometer

 

as I said before spares produce voltage hand turning. Managed to swap out the dud yesterday and “tah daahhh” we have RPM

next job is to try to drive it out the garage and spin it around so my exhaust is pointing away from the door to the house. Then I can tune it.

assume the knurled wheel on the distributor is for adjusting ° b/a TDC

will sort fueling and idle 1st, then fine tune timing.

thank you so much for the advice everyone

 

Managed to driver her out the garage around the block and back in nose 1st, the clutch bite point is at the top of the travel, she’s leaking some fluids - no idea what or where from, and the brake fluid / handbrake light won’t go out despite there being a full reservoir and working brakes. But at least now the exhaust isn’t pointing directly at my door to the house. She was a little Smokey to begin with.

 

Excellent progress! I have found that that brake warning light also comes on when the park brake handle is not completely released.
Also, I rebuilt both my carbs several years ago, they needed it badly but the car ran for some reason. I set the screws at the prescribed 1-1/2 turns, and found that cold idle was impossible, as was described. I turned the screws to only 1 turn- instead, not in addition, and found the idle to improve. I have continued to refine it and it rarely dies now at all unless its down around freezing outside.
Regards,

 

thanks, am in Arizona so rarely gets below 55°f

wont idle, have to keep my foot on the gas a little… but progress is being made - team effort!

:-)

this weekend I’m concentrating on my F250 project so can’t touch the jaaag for a while.

 

Leave your mixture where it is for now at 1.5 turns.



To set the idle and balance the carbs:

Loosen off the small screw (green arrow), that will essentially disconnect the butterfly valves from each other.
One will be closed all the way (the one closest to the front) _ it has the return spring, the rear carb will be free to open and close.
Remove the dash pot on the front carb and make sure the lower linkage allows the butterfly valve to be close all the way with the return spring, if not adjust the linkage. (it's a collet fitting)
Remove the dash pot on the rear carb and gently hold the butterfly valve shut with your hand, and snug up the nut (green arrow).

At this point, both butterfly valves should be held shut with the return spring on the front carb _ install the dash pots.

Gently screw in both idle screws (red arrow) until lightly seated, DO NOT TIGHTEN THESES, just until lightly seated _ very important.
Back them both out 3.5 turns for initial set up.

These screws also sets the balance and idle, so your setting the idle and balancing the carbs at the same time.
This procedure must only be done with engine fully warmed up and both butterfly valves must be shut.