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Hello,
I am looking for information regarding faulty Driver Door Module (DDM), and subsequent replacement/reprogramming.
When I bought the car, the fob worked perfectly. Then one day it just stopped working. New batteries, still not working. Tried programming a new fob with no result. My mechanic said it was like the car isn’t seeing the new fob when he tries to reprogram it.
Key still operates ignition as it should, operates global windows/sunroof and single/global door lock(s) when used in driver door.
Suspect fault in DDM, and would like to replace the module in hopes of restoring proper operation of fob. Would also like to program second fob, and will get the key cut to match once I can program the fob. (I only have one working key/fob and a valet key buried in the aftermarket remote starter)
Can anyone direct me to any info regarding this job, I would sincerely appreciate it.
What kind of scanner are you (or your mechanic) using? Most scanners can only read OBD mandated codes for engine control and emissions. They typically can’t read Jaguar specific codes for other systems, such as security, etc.
I’d imagine if the DDM is acting up, some diagnostic codes would have been set. It doesn’t seem as if the DDM has totally failed, as some functions are still working. Even if it had failed, other modules would report the lack of communication.
Before gambling on a new DDM, it might be worth making sure you’ve got all relevant fault codes. No personal experience, but I’ve heard good things about the iCarsoft i930:
Read codes for sure...I have a ddm issue also
codes are rolling key fob out of sync and an scp com failure and no global functions at all
My ddm has a broken pin also... programming is done via sdd ids which I will do once my new(used)ddm arrives...or a dealer of course or Indie shop can do with sdd...anyway if you dyi you need to verify your ddm part number so you can get the same one...if you choose to buy used...
If you still have your old remote try opening it up, and with the circuit board in place press down firmly on the black IC chip and at the same time press either the lock or unlock buttons near the car.
Sometimes the solder joints fracture causing the remote to fail.
If you are still having the fob problem here was my fix.....I thought my ddm was bad....got a used one and no go....I researched the ddm and would have to get a new one...the fobs I was programming were new eBay, Chinese knock offs...I decided to get 2 oem jaguar used fobs on eBay....40 delivered...they programmed beautifully....long story short...my ddm was fine....it did not have a broken pin after all, just made with a stub on purpose....went to the dealer and they had a new one and let me look at it..... fobs were faulty... wouldn't hold the rolling code....way cheaper than a ddm I did not need...no way to test a fob except for mhz frequency...
Got the i980, DDM scan gives me a rolling code out of sequence. Not sure if there is a fix for that at home, so I have begun attempting to get in to the dealer.
Tried the many methods to reprogram the fob, but I can’t seem to get the car into programming mode. If/when this is resolved I will post here.
that rolling code symptom was the same as I got...I was chasing the ddm, then decided to get two oem used fobs as a first try....using sdd, fobs programmed perfecct....on your 2003, I am not sure if you can program them with the light stalk pull or not.....if it is possible and you are having no luck,then you are back to square one I am afraid....what made the decision easy for me is that with sdd I did not need dealer help, so I tried new fobs first
I say “at this moment” because we all know how finicky these cars can be.
Update:
Took Della Rose to the Jag dealer here in Indianapolis today and they got the fob working. Yay!
Bear in mind that I had a reasonably knowledgeable Service rep talking between myself and the actual technician who worked on the car.
The fob was tested and was working fine, battery was good too.
They had to try programming the fob to the car three time before it would take. Initially he said they had to “flash” the PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) three times.
So after some conversation to try and better understand what was done, he said “flash” may not have been the right word.
Basically, as I understand it, they tried three times to push the fob info through the PATS and ultimately into the Drivers Door Module where it is stored. Third time worked.
Said perhaps the previous owner had several keys and this filled up the memory, requiring it to be wiped to hold the info they were uploading. Perhaps the PATS system was going out (??) but the tech told the rep nothing needed replaced. I asked “What’s the estimate on replacing it? (Lol) and he said $1300.
So I got home thinking, “Wait... what??” I called the rep and sent him back to the tech for clarification. He came back on the line saying there are several parts to the PATS, that something fed to the instrument cluster and then the DDM. And that they had to get the info stored in the DDM.
I said, “Ok, thanks for the clarification.” And ended the call.
From what I can gather after some digging...
There are several components that comprise the PATS including (but not limited to) the module circled in the image below from, page 20 of the electrical guide available here: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...al%20Guide.pdf
So if something is going out it will likely be one of the above modules, any of which will be expensive to have the dealer replace. BUT apparently nothing needs replaced and the fob works now. Fingers crossed
History:
The fob worked fine when I bought the car. I would lock-button twice when locking, getting the lock-chirp. One day... double press, lock but no chirp. The fob didn’t work at all again until today. Recent use of the iCarsoft, looking at the DDM, Tells me the rolling code is out of sequence. I can pull up the last code received and this code received didn’t change when I clear/use fob/ recheck. Dealer tried three time to program the fob to the car and third time worked.
My thoughts on possible causes.
1. Battery going out. At some point a while after this, I began experiencing other issues that were ultimately resolved by replacing the battery. It could be something else... except it’s ALWAYS the battery going out.
2. Some part of the PATS system experienced a glitch, that may end up becoming a symptom of [insert PATS component here] going out. This could be a developing problem... except it’s always the battery going out.
3. The aftermarket remote start installed by Wax Werks inexplicably decided that on that day it would suddenly cause a problem. This could also be the problem... except... well... you know. Battery was starting to go out.
If the fob quits again I will take the car back to the dealer and have them dig in deep to figure out what’s going on. I will direct them to the remote starter, the history above, and cut them loose. At that point they will probably replace the battery 🤣
But for now, it’s Sunny out, it’s a beautiful day, and the fob works. I’m calling this a win and going for a drive.
Wish me luck!
Great news....hopefully it will stay working....the fobs to ddm is finicky, but once it takes it is such a nice extra to have them working....i know the elation you feel
In my previous post, I mentioned the battery going out a lot. I meant the car battery. Not the fob battery.
Although you should replace the battery in the fob early in the diagnostic process, the culprit to a whole lot of s-type jag problems is the car battery going out. This is what I was referring to in my previous post. 👍🏻
12-24-2018, 07:41 AM
DDM replacement
