Firstly, I know this thread title may seem like I should've been able to find this answer somewhere else on the forum, but I did scan for about 30minutes and didn't find anything with the same issue as I have.

Anyway, since about a month back the check engine light has been on with no additional warning texts or warning lights from the gauge cluster / screen.

Today I received this OBD2 reader I ordered last week from eBay.


I use an iPhone and I've tried two different apps (iOBD2, Car Scanner ELM OBD2) and followed all instructions I've found within the apps as well as on different internet forums. I can't seem to get the OBD2 reader to connect to my car, connection between my phone and the reader seems to work fine. I've taken some screenshots to show you my process, the images were absolutely massive when I tried to post them on here so instead click this link to see them.

Any help is appreciated, not sure if I have to use another app, do some settings in the car or check a fuse to make the reader communicate with my car properly.

The car in question is a 2001 X-type with a 5-speed manual, 114000 kms (70000 ML), 3.0, V6, petrol, AWD.

With love,
Arvid

 

You'll need engine running or ignition II.

Next, check fuse(s).

 

Which version did you buy? I bought one and it wouldn't work on mine, versions are 1.5 & 2.0. Also mine says Wi-fi, but only works on bluetooth.

The Five Flavors of OBD II
While the parameters, or readings, required by OBD II regulations are uniform, the auto manufacturers had some latitude in the communications protocol they used to transmit those readings to scanners. Naturally, each felt they had the one true way, so we have five different OBD II communications protocols in use. The big scanner consoles costing thousands of dollars include the decoding software and firmware for all five protocols in their units, making them universal. Less expensive units, for home or small shop use, are usually customized for a specific communications protocol. Be sure the scanner you are using suits the protocol of your car.

J1850 VPW --The connector should have metallic contacts in pins 2, 4, 5, and 16, but not 10.
ISO 9141-2/KWP2000 --The connector should have metallic contacts in pins 4, 5, 7, 15, and 16.
J1850 PWM --The connector should have metallic contacts in pins 2, 4, 5, 10, and 16. --The connector should have metallic contacts in pins 4, 5, 6, 14 and 16


Generally speaking the following vehicles have these protocols: VPWM: General Motors, Chrysler PWM: Ford models to 2003 with EEC-V engine management system. Including Ford Cougar (all UK models), Ford Puma (1.6 and 1.7), Ford Fiesta Zetec models to 2003, Ford Mondeo Zetec models to 2003, Ford Focus to 2003. Newer Jaguar S-Type and Jaguar X-Type. Pre 2004 Mazdas ISO / KWP2000: Most European and Asian manufacturers. Alfa Romeo, Audi, BMW, Citroen, Fiat, Honda, Hyundai, Jaguar (X300, XK), Jeep since 2004, Kia, Land Rover, Mazda, Mercedes, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Peugeot, Renault, Saab, Skoda, Subaru, Toyota, Vauxhall, Volkswagen (VW) since 2001, Volvo to 2004 :: More information on KWP 2000 (ISO 14230)... CAN: Ford, Mazda, Volvo since 2004. Some vehicles have a CAN bus system along side the ISO/KWP2000 system for diagnostics as well as inter-module communications.

 

Engine was running for the whole duration of me trying to connect with any of the apps I used.

Regarding the fuses, I did check them the other week because of a power issue I thought I was having, they were all fine. Also, power to the obd reader shouldn't be a problem as the reader itself is communicating just fine with my phone, I also have an obd module in the slot for my regular driving to bring down my insurance costs and I know that works just fine retrieving my acceleration information etc. Although, knowing this, maybe the new module I just recieved that's simply not working with my car, or is a bad example of the item itself..

Thanks for the help as always

Thanks for the in-depth info, this is the one I bought (apparently it was a Swedish site and not eBay, mixed it up with another order).

As you can see in the description of the item it sais:

This adapter supports the following protocols:
1. SAE J1850 PWM (41.6Kbaud)
2. SAE J1850 VPW (10.4Kbaud)
3. ISO9141-2 (5 baud init 10.4Kbaud)
4. ISO14230-4 KWP (5 baud init 10.4Kbaud)
5. ISO14230-4 KWP (fixed init 10.4Kbaud)
6. ISO15765 -4 CAN (11bit ID 500Kbaud)
7. ISO15765-4 (CAN 29bit ID 500Kbaud)
8. ISO15765-4CAN (11bit ID250Kbaud)
9. ISO15765-4CAN (29bit ID250Kbaud)
10. SAE J1939 CAN (29bit ID250Kbaud)
11. USER1 (CAN 11 * piece ID125Kbaud)
12. USER2 (CAN 11 * bit ID50kbaud)

This particular device has metallic pins in every single spot (1-16)

Now it is definitely WiFi as I could without problem connect to it via WiFi from my phone as soon as I plugged it into the car (didn't even have to insert the key). Connecting to the reader via phone didn't seem to be a problem, just for the reader to connect with the jag.

 

So my research shows that pre 2004+ X types used normal OBD protocol and after 2004+ Jag changed to CAN. So, I would hazard a guess that the pre 2004+ are version 1.5 & after 2004+ they use 2.0 version. Check yours. Again the first one I bought said 2.0 but wouldn't connect to the car even though I knew I needed a v. 2.0. I ended up downloading an app to check the version and it was a 1.5. The seller denied it until I sent them screenshots to get them to refund my money.

Btw, it's not the device you check for the pins, it's the OBD plugin port.

 

Right, now I've been real busy a while and haven't been able to update this.

I tried again with the elm327 and still it doesn't work, decided to look at the pins in the connector as Dell suggested, managed to get a decent photo of it.

https://imgur.com/a/2fbAPut

It has pins in slots number 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 14 & 16.

Does this mean it's the third one you wrote down, Dell? "J1850 PWM --The connector should have metallic contacts in pins 2, 4, 5, 10, and 16. --The connector should have metallic contacts in pins 4, 5, 6, 14 and 16"

Either way, how do I know it's compatible with my reader. Now, if it is, I suppose there is something wrong with my ECU.

 

I ended up buying a genuine Foseal one (lots of clones and look-a-likes out there) directly. Mind you I need a V.2.0.

 

OBD2 protocols

OBD-2 J1850 PWM, J1850 VPW RS-232 cables scheme pinout and wiring @ old.pinouts.ru

And not to beat a dead horse, but again mine says wi-fi right on it but torque app only connects on bluetooth *shrugs*