hi all;
I just purchased my first Jag a week ago and find out this. (Xj-R 2004 with 95k )

To make a long story short, the dealer agreed to fill out the tank before I left the place. I ran the entire week without a problem and when the niddle touched the last quarter I filled back the tank.

Right after I took a 150 mile trip and around and about 100 miles on it and using the Adaptive CC the car started to made corrections without any car in from of me. It did it twice. At a stop light started to shiver and shake and I made a stop. Turn off and back on and the engine light and the restricted performance came on.

A local shop said that the Cylinder #3 had a misfire and mentioned that can be the coil.

Back home and before change the coil/s I changed ALL spark plugs and add it on the fresh gas tank a bottle of Sea Foam to clean any outstanding residues and I reset the codes.
Turn it on and no more lights and no more shaking. Took a 20 miles drive and the car behave like brand new.

This morning turn on and a minute later, shake again and lights everywhere.

Check the codes again and 0203 - 0303 - 1316 showed up (see pictures for more details)

Question;
Can the suckers at the dealership filled out the tank with 87 and cause this damage?

I'm leaning to take it to a friends' shop who work with imported cars since the injectors care are out of my knowledge.

Any other ideas? Suggestions?

 

I've moved your post from the General Tech section to the XJ (X350) section where members with the same Model will best be able to assist you.


As this is your first post, please take a moment to stop by the New Member section and post an intro. In turn, you will receive a warm welcome along with some very useful tips in navigating the forum


New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum


enjoy

 

Thanks for that and for giving us the chance to have this well done forum.
Cheers

 

Hi mcacciola,

P1316 indicates excessive emissions due to the misfire in cylinder 3 indicated by your P0303 code. The P0203 indicates a problem with the cylinder 3 fuel injector circuit; possible causes are the injector is disconnected, the injector harness wiring is short circuited, or the injector has failed (very uncommon).

On your car, cylinder 3 is the second cylinder from the front of the engine on the left-hand side as you stand at the front of the car and face the engine. It would be worth checking the wiring for both the coil and injector at cylinder 3.

If you need a coil, they are relatively inexpensive. The Airtex/Wells coil I ordered from Rock Auto was less than $40.00 and the coil itself was marked FoMoCo (Ford Motor Company) and matched another coil the local Jaguar dealer had replaced for the previous owner.

I think it is highly unlikely that you need a fuel injector - it's far more likely something has affected the wiring or electrical connector (check for oil or coolant contamination, for example).

You can look up the meanings of the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in the Workshop Manual, which you can download in six sections from the X350 'HOW TO' quick links thread on the home page of this X350 forum.

You should also be aware that a standard scanner can read the generic OBDII codes from your car, but in order to see most of the proprietary Jaguar codes (some P (Powertrain) codes, plus B (Body), C (Chassis) and U (Undefined or Network)) codes, it takes either a high-end system such as AutoEnginuity with the Jaguar add-on module, or a Jaguar dealer-level computer-based systems such as System Driven Diagnostics (SDD). For SDD you'll need to either visit a Jaguar dealer, a good independent Jag specialist, or acquire your own Mongoose cable and SDD software as many of us have done. Search the forum for the term "Mongoose" and you'll find lots of information.

Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

 

I am currently having this same problem. It seems like this has become a much more common problem in the winter time. My car is at the independent right now let's see what the verdict is.

 

Thank s Don for such detailed report.

Coil wiring is clean and well attached. New sparks in place as well. But I'm not sure how to see/reach the injector wiring.

So now I'm debating now if I should go ahead and take the car to the shop for injector replacement (I can't do it at home with my tools) or give a try by burning some gas that already has the injector cleaner added and see if it cleans by itself?

It could be dangerous to drive the car as it is ?

If not....How much gas actually might need to burn to let the product work?

Your help and input is much appreciated.

 

To absolutely eliminate the ignition coil as being the culprit, exchange it (swap) with another one and see if the codes follow that coil. If it does, then coil replacement should be a lot cheaper. If not, then you have a much higher confidence that it is an injector wiring or injector problem.

 

Ignition coil swapped.
Still shaking and check engine light on.
I took a lap around neighborhood to let injector cleaner go through system (10/12 miles) turned off and back on. and the shaking reduced about 90% but light still on.

Will take a 30miles ride at night to a friends house who has the computer to reset it. Will see.

 

Hi mcacciola,

The P0203 code indicates a problem with the injector's electrical circuit. The worst case would be that the injector's coil has shorted or burned open, but it is far more likely that there is a problem with the injector wiring or connector. I am not optimistic that the fuel additive will resolve your issue.

Have you rescanned for any new P codes?

The Workshop Manual you can download from this forum shows how to access the injector wiring and connectors in the Powertrain section.

Cheers,

Don

 

Swapping the coils would NOT stop the restricted performance it would still occur. The question would be.... does do you still get the very same codes or did they change to signify the plugs to which you moved the #3 coil too. If they stayed the same then it's wiring or injector. If they changed then its a bad coil which you can handle very inexpensively.


In addition its not likely (but not impossible) for just one injector to become clogged so if that is in fact the problem then there will be others shortly so invest in one of the relatively easy wand inexpensive fuel injector cleaning set-ups for the DIY'er in everyone.

83 octane fuel will NOT destroy your injectors but it will cause the engine to underperform as the detonation sensors will adjust the timing, etc. to try to compensate for the greater volatility.

 

I've checked again the codes (after swapping coil #3 for #1) and reset the codes.

After 2 miles Engine light came on and the R.P. message is still there.

The result on the reader is: P0300 Random Misfire

Based on the manual can be:

• ECM to ignition coil primary circuit fault (cylinder misfire detected DTC also flagged)
• Ignition coil failure
• Spark plug
failure/fouled/incorrect
gap
• Fuel injector circuit fault(s)
(injector DTCs also flagged)
• Fuel delivery pressure
high/low
• Fuel injectors
restricted/leaking
• Fuel injectors continuously
open
• Fuel contamination
• Worn camshaft/broken
valve springs


So...I wonder why can't tell if still the #3 or #1.

The mystery goes on.
I feel that I will ended up at my mechanic to work on the injectors.

 

Coils go bad often, especially at 10 years old. Injectors hardly ever in comparison.

 

hi all;
After some time at the shop of the guy who has been working with my Porsche for quite some time (trusted person) he found out that the culprit was not the coils, no the plugs and not the injectors, but the computer itself.

Ot cost me $1500 plus labor and after that fix the car run for a day until the throttle body decided to stop working. He fixed that as well and now the car is running great for the last week, but one problem persist. The Park Brake Fault alert is not going away.

We review the several posts regarding EPS and we found that somebody has the same issue after working around the computer. We followed the all instructions and options on how to fix it as follows:

Here is what the owners manual handbook says:

The EPB is automatically applied when the key is removed from the ignition switch. If you wish to keep the EPB off, press and hold the EPB switch down and, at the same time, remove the key. Caution: Take care that the vehicle is safely parked to prevent it from rolling if you wish to leave the EPB off. The warning indicator in the instrument panel will remain on for a short time if the EPB is applied when the key is turned to position 0 or if the key is removed. If the battery has been discharged or disconnected the message APPLY PARKBRAKE will be displayed when the ignition is next switched on. Depress the footbrake and pull the EPB switch up to apply the EPB. This is required to reset the EPB system which will now function correctly.

Cabin fuse box Fuse No. Rating (amps) Circuit
F3 5A Rear outer seat, electrochromic mirror, driver seat heater, electric parkbrake, left-hand and right-hand HID lamps levelling, left-hand and right-hand seat belt switches, passenger seat heater switch, rear seat heater switchpack.

Luggage compartment fuse box
F32 30A Electric parkbrake actuator

I once found this on a forum but don't recall who posted it:
Repair man left the engine running and then disconnected the Parkbrake ECU, left it disconnected for 5 minutes, connected it back up and viola, the car goes through the Parkbrake syncronisation - "Press footbrake and apply parkbrake". Now it's all fixed!

The Parkbrake ECU is behind the right had trim (as you look at it) in the boot and is bolted to the body with two 10mm bolts, just leave the engine running and pull out the harness, leave it for 5 mins with the engine running and then plug it back in and you should get the synronisation message on the dash.

The parkingbrake ECU module looks like the pic attached.


34by151, after removing the right side boot liner all I found was the rear ECM which is a silver alum box with many wires and connections and a white handle for emergency fuel door release and no smaller black plastic EPB ECM.


I decided to start from step one, disconnect and load test the battery which tested fine. Before reconnecting the battery leads I touched them together figuring I'd reboot the whole car. Put the key in and the car started right up and now I had the "press foot brake and apply hand brake" message, no more "parking brake failure" message. I pressed foot brake and applied the hand brake and all is well.


The engine did idle bad for a few minutes, it hunted between 8 and 1200 rpms but I expected that while the car relearns all settings. Funny thing the small vibration I had complained about here when it down shifted between 2nd to 1st seems to be gone now.


I would still like to know where the EPB ECM is located on my car, it is not where the earlier X350's have it located.

Nice to hear about the extra benefit you got doing that approach which some people do if they don't mind loosing settings. One person on a forum said the parking brake module is low and behind the ECU module you found stating that one can not see the parking brake module unless the ECU is removed.


The Electronic Park Brake (EPB) is an overly-complex system and I'm currently suffering a PARK BRAKE FAULT warning on our '04, which I believe I triggered when I disconnected the ECM to clean its connector.

Your problem could be related to low battery voltage, so it would be worth having the voltage checked while cranking the engine. Your battery isn't old, but your charging system may not be doing its job as well as it should, and looseness or corrosion on battery power connections and grounds throughout the car can cause these sorts of electrical gremlins.


Quote:
Furthermore, my OBD 2 scan tool says there are no error codes when plugged into the diagnostic port.
A standard OBD2 scanner can read many of the "P" or Powertrain codes associated with Emissions, but it can't read the proprietary Jaguar "C" or Chassis codes which EPB faults trigger (nor will it read the "B" Body codes or "U" Undefined codes). You will need to either have a dealer or properly-equipped independent mechanic scan the codes, or acquire a Mongoose cable and JLR SDD software and set up a Windows XP laptop to scan the codes yourself.

On our '04 XJR, the codes that were tripped were:

C1802 EPB Motor engage current not reached or travelled too far upon apply (100% probability)

C1094 Parking brake apply switch - circuit failure (6% probability)


I am attaching two EPB Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for your reference.

In your case, it might be worth disconnecting both battery cables and touching their terminals together for a minute or two. Then reconnect the battery and follow the instructions in TSB JTB00084 (attached) to recalibrate the EPB.

If that doesn't do the trick, it might be worth rebooting the EPB module in the trunk/boot. There is a procedure for disconnecting the two electrical connectors in a specific order - if you get it wrong you can mess things up, so check the Chassis section of the X350 Workshop Manual




So we have tried all the above without luck. Now I have dowloaded also the two bulletins regarding this issue and will forward to him now... Any other suggestions or ideas?

Thanks in advance for your input.

 

hello again;
I will appreciate any feedback or ideas on how to help fix the EB

Thanks everyone!