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’02 XJR (US/Canada) developed an intermittent (occasional) ABS/TRAC problem until the dealer did a diagnosis (during an oil change visit) – they said it’s an ABS pump problem. Since that visit to the dealer, the ABS/TRAC NOT AVAILABLE warning is almost constant. A local mechanic, who I trust, has now also diagnosed it as an ABS pump problem. Are there any threads on ABS pump problems? What is the P/N and are these ABS pumps repairable/rebuildable? The mechanic tells me the ABS Control Module is “good”, but if the pump is to be replaced perhaps it makes sense to install a rebuilt Control Module at the same time? Also, how important is it to match a rebuilt ABS Control Module to the original P/N – for example, LNF2210AC v. LNF2210AD v. LNC2210AD? Thank you in advance for any valuable info.
In most cases, the problem is caused by deteriorated solders on the PC board for the power supply to the motor solved by re-soldering. Search the forum, a lot of info on this.
My 01 XJR had exactly this issue (“ABS/Trac not available). The codes showed that the problem was indeed in the module. Sent it out for repair (to Module Master, Moscow, Idaho). Done quickly, came back impressively packaged, and I had it reinstalled by my Jaguar dealer while the car was in for service. Worked perfectly after installation, no codes, no issues.
My 01 XJR had exactly this issue (“ABS/Trac not available). The codes showed that the problem was indeed in the module. Sent it out for repair (to Module Master, Moscow, Idaho). Done quickly, came back impressively packaged, and I had it reinstalled by my Jaguar dealer while the car was in for service. Worked perfectly after installation, no codes, no issues.
As near as I can tell it's still working perfectly although in our current weather/road conditions I there is the occasional uphill stretch where I will intentionally turn off the traction control. If I don't (ie without being able to maintain a little bit of controlled wheel spin) the car slows too quickly to reach the top. The result is then backing down a two block long hill where the option is taking another run or finding alternative route (and when you live at the bottom of the river valley there aren't really any better alternative routes). I can happily take some pictures on request the next time it snows because at -33 this morning the skies are clear and for the most part so are the streets...
The codes that get reported do not indicate the true nature of the problem in many cases
The solder joint can cause the light to come on intermittently or continually depending on
the severity of the solder joint break. If a person just wants somebody else to do it, I can
certainly understand that....however the cost-effective approach is to inspect that solder
joint and repair it yourself.
’02 XJR (US/Canada) developed an intermittent (occasional) ABS/TRAC problem until the dealer did a diagnosis (during an oil change visit) – they said it’s an ABS pump problem. Since that visit to the dealer, the ABS/TRAC NOT AVAILABLE warning is almost constant. A local mechanic, who I trust, has now also diagnosed it as an ABS pump problem. Are there any threads on ABS pump problems? What is the P/N and are these ABS pumps repairable/rebuildable? The mechanic tells me the ABS Control Module is “good”, but if the pump is to be replaced perhaps it makes sense to install a rebuilt Control Module at the same time? Also, how important is it to match a rebuilt ABS Control Module to the original P/N – for example, LNF2210AC v. LNF2210AD v. LNC2210AD? Thank you in advance for any valuable info.
These cars can have a problem with the ABS module needing to have the connections that drive the motor come loose on the circuit board. It's generally an easy fix if you're handy with a soldering iron. I've had to fix this on a couple of my 308 Jags. You will find instructions all over but as a short note: you can remove the electronics without disconnecting the brake lines. When you look at the connector receptacle on the unit, you will see a couple of larger pins. These drive the motor. I cut a hole in the plastic cover with a dremel tool in the back of the housing exposing the connector where the pins are located. Then solder the two motor pins and glue the piece of the housing back on.
Of course, you might try removing and cleaning the connector and seeing if that gets it working. Best, Dave
I think the mechanic got it wrong about the “pump”. My diagnosis gave a C1095 only (no other codes). I found a PDF on the forum – DTC Summaries Teves Mk 20-I ABS and ABS/TC Systems -- Possible Causes for a C1095 are given as: ”Pump motor to CM circuit: high resistance, open circuit or short circuit to ground or B+ voltage. Pump motor failure.”
Based on the above, and the prevalence of broken solder joints for the two pin connectors as being the cause of ABS problems (DTC C1095), simply re-soldering those two locations and re-installing seems to be the way to go. If there was another type of problem with the ABS electronic control module (Jag Part JLM21323), I should expect at least one other code, e.g., DTC C1137 (“CM (control module) internal circuit failure”) – yes? So I’m thinking not to send my ABS electronic control module out for rebuilding. But, I would be interested to know whether, or not, the experts agree.
BTW, you may have noticed that I’m not talking about “Pump motor failure” as a Possible Cause of my C1095 since this seems extremely rare compared with the solder joint issue. Anyone have experience with an ABS pump motor failure on an X308? I appreciate any further feedback. Thanks, Al
Thanks for the feedback. A couple of points. First of all, for eliminating the possibility of a [real] Pump Failure as a possible cause for DTC C1095, for someone with limited tools/equipment, facilities, experience – what equipment is needed to “apply 12V directly” to the ABS pump motor and how to proceed?
Second, for the re-soldering fix of the two “power pins” – is there a post/thread on “best practices” – for the “purist”. I would want to disconnect the hydraulic lines to the pump and I would prefer not to make holes in the cover of the ABS electronic control module. I’m not knocking the approach of Robert DIY (and his video on this topic). But my preference would be to remove the entire cover for inspection and re-solder in a more precise way – does anyone have any pointers on how to open up the electronic control module to expose the PCB. Also, Re: types of solder to use – what solder is preferred, what solder will work/won’t work: 60/40 Sn-Pb, 63/37 Sn-Pb, lead free, etc?
You will find that doing the solder work will eliminate the question in your mind about the Pump.
I understand perfectly the desire to avoid creating holes in the cover and that solution applies
more to those who want to achieve the greatest amount of result with the least amount of labor.
My advice is to solder a small section of wire across the two solder points such that should
subsequent flexing take place; the connection remains intact.
The FIRST ABS module I 'cut-open' I damaged the circuit board using a hacksaw. I cut along the seams of the case and went too deep.
I did not care because there were dozens on the shop floor and in the trash at the dealer.
I learned to go just about through the case and then tap a screwdriver along the corners to twist and lever the case open. (cracking the plastic)
DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE STEEL STANDOFFS!
Break the plastic around the steel tubes and lift the cover OFF.
I use BLACK silicone sealant to reseal the case halves. (gently squeezed in a vise overnight)
I tried very hard to pry the case open on my first car and busted it up a bit. Finally just made a small hole in the area where you need to solder. After soldering I melted the case hole shut with the soldering iron and added black silicone all around. The second car I just cut the hole carefully with a dremel tool and it was much cleaner of a job.
You DO NOT have to remove the brake lines. Just remove the tiny screws that hole the black electronics module on. You will need to bend the lines a bit to get it out but just bend them back when you are done. After assembly you will not really see that you did anything unless you really look.
I am certain it would take less time if one had accomplished the task previously.
There are those who may not have tackled the job before and thus not have quite
the assuredness that one has having completed the task already, however the
procedure you have used is most appreciated, I am sure.
ABS Pump Diagnosis - "bad"
