Low Cost Knock Sensor
#1
Low Cost Knock Sensor
I had the check engine light & restricted engine performance come on my 2002 XJ8 VDP. After reading the OBDII code P0328 (Bank 1 Knock Sensor) I took off the sensor, cleaned inspected and found the cable cracked and crumbling apart. The online replacement sensor for the 2002 XJ8 VDP cost ranged from $89 to an unbelievably $179, outrageous pricing for a simple knock sensor!! After a few hours of reading and searching the interweb for a compatible part I found that the XK8 and newer XJ8 uses a similar sensor (part number SU7012) at a cost of only $33 shipped overnight. Although the cable was a little longer it was easy to install, fished the wire under the manifold, bolted on and plugged right in. I used a ziptie for the excess cable length which helped in keeping it away from direct contact heat of the engine.
Numerous online parts stores show pictures of the older style stainless steel hex nut style for my 2002 VDP and not the black plastic donut shaped sensor that was on my car. I ordered the lower cost knock sensor from Autozone part number SU7012 Again my total cost was only $33, I think the Jag dealer would have charged me well over $400 to replace the sensor. If anybody knows of any technical difference such as sensitivity or voltage, other than the length of the cable between the XJ8 $100+ and the XK8 $30 knock sensor please let me and others on this forum know. So far my Jag is running great and no codes.
BTW - My wife gave me a OBD code reader last Christmas I subsequently was able to fix numerous problems on my Rover as well. Combining the wealth of knowledge from the folks in this forum and my new low cost OBD code reader has saved me thousands of dollars within the last few months. Thank you so much y'all. Cheers, Richard
Numerous online parts stores show pictures of the older style stainless steel hex nut style for my 2002 VDP and not the black plastic donut shaped sensor that was on my car. I ordered the lower cost knock sensor from Autozone part number SU7012 Again my total cost was only $33, I think the Jag dealer would have charged me well over $400 to replace the sensor. If anybody knows of any technical difference such as sensitivity or voltage, other than the length of the cable between the XJ8 $100+ and the XK8 $30 knock sensor please let me and others on this forum know. So far my Jag is running great and no codes.
BTW - My wife gave me a OBD code reader last Christmas I subsequently was able to fix numerous problems on my Rover as well. Combining the wealth of knowledge from the folks in this forum and my new low cost OBD code reader has saved me thousands of dollars within the last few months. Thank you so much y'all. Cheers, Richard
The following 2 users liked this post by jagwhiting:
ericjansen (05-21-2017),
JimmyL (04-08-2014)
#2
#4
#5
#6
3-year Update. This low-cost Knock sensor replacement is still working great. Jagwhiting
From my previous post:
I had the check engine light & restricted engine performance come on my 2002 XJ8 VDP. After reading the OBDII code P0328 (Bank 1 Knock Sensor) I took off the sensor, cleaned inspected and found the cable cracked and crumbling apart. The online replacement sensor for the 2002 XJ8 VDP cost ranged from $89 to an unbelievable $179, outrageous pricing for a simple knock sensor!! After a few hours of reading and searching the interweb for a compatible part I found that the XK8 and newer XJ8 uses a similar sensor (part number SU7012) at a cost of only $33 shipped overnight. Although the cable was a little longer it was easy to install, fished the wire under the manifold, bolted on and plugged right in. I used a ziptie for the excess cable length which helped in keeping it away from direct contact heat of the engine.
Numerous online parts stores show pictures of the older style stainless steel hex nut style for my 2002 VDP and not the black plastic donut-shaped sensor that was on my car. I ordered the lower cost knock sensor from Autozone part number SU7012 Again my total cost was only $33, I think the Jag dealer would have charged me well over $400 to replace the sensor. If anybody knows of any technical difference such as sensitivity or voltage, other than the length of the cable between the XJ8 $100+ and the XK8 $30 knock sensor please let me and others on this forum know. So far my Jag is running great and no codes.
BTW - My wife gave me an OBD code reader last Christmas I subsequently was able to fix numerous problems on my Rover as well. Combining the wealth of knowledge from the folks in this forum and my new low-cost OBD code reader has saved me thousands of dollars within the last few months. Thank you so much y'all. Cheers, Richard
From my previous post:
I had the check engine light & restricted engine performance come on my 2002 XJ8 VDP. After reading the OBDII code P0328 (Bank 1 Knock Sensor) I took off the sensor, cleaned inspected and found the cable cracked and crumbling apart. The online replacement sensor for the 2002 XJ8 VDP cost ranged from $89 to an unbelievable $179, outrageous pricing for a simple knock sensor!! After a few hours of reading and searching the interweb for a compatible part I found that the XK8 and newer XJ8 uses a similar sensor (part number SU7012) at a cost of only $33 shipped overnight. Although the cable was a little longer it was easy to install, fished the wire under the manifold, bolted on and plugged right in. I used a ziptie for the excess cable length which helped in keeping it away from direct contact heat of the engine.
Numerous online parts stores show pictures of the older style stainless steel hex nut style for my 2002 VDP and not the black plastic donut-shaped sensor that was on my car. I ordered the lower cost knock sensor from Autozone part number SU7012 Again my total cost was only $33, I think the Jag dealer would have charged me well over $400 to replace the sensor. If anybody knows of any technical difference such as sensitivity or voltage, other than the length of the cable between the XJ8 $100+ and the XK8 $30 knock sensor please let me and others on this forum know. So far my Jag is running great and no codes.
BTW - My wife gave me an OBD code reader last Christmas I subsequently was able to fix numerous problems on my Rover as well. Combining the wealth of knowledge from the folks in this forum and my new low-cost OBD code reader has saved me thousands of dollars within the last few months. Thank you so much y'all. Cheers, Richard
Last edited by jagwhiting; 05-21-2017 at 02:19 PM.
The following 4 users liked this post by jagwhiting:
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#8
Low-cost knock sensors and sources for a 1998-1999 x308 XJR
I am building an engine for a 1998 XJR using a 1999 XJR long block, and would prefer to install new knock sensors.
Prices seem to be quite high these days: the $33 knock sensors mentioned in earlier sensor threads from a number of years back seem to have increased dramatically. It would be and easy decision to plop down $80 for a pair, but the going rate now seems to be $200+ to $450/pair, which is rather prohibitive.
Does anyone have recent knowledge of sources for reasonably-priced solid, reliable sensors for an x308 XJR?
Best, Harold...
Prices seem to be quite high these days: the $33 knock sensors mentioned in earlier sensor threads from a number of years back seem to have increased dramatically. It would be and easy decision to plop down $80 for a pair, but the going rate now seems to be $200+ to $450/pair, which is rather prohibitive.
Does anyone have recent knowledge of sources for reasonably-priced solid, reliable sensors for an x308 XJR?
Best, Harold...
#9
These knock sensors tripled (or more) in price about a year ago.
The early A26 sensors are the screw-in type, but if you are using a 1999 A27 block it should be the post type (see pic)
If you do some extensive searching you can source them new for around $78 each, but that is as low as I have seen them.
These all fit..............
Duralast SU7015 or SU7012 (the SU7012 is a little longer) I used a SU7012 and it works fine, as have several other forum members
Airtex 5S5619
Standard Motor Products KS309 or KS305
Denso LNE1692AA
The early A26 sensors are the screw-in type, but if you are using a 1999 A27 block it should be the post type (see pic)
If you do some extensive searching you can source them new for around $78 each, but that is as low as I have seen them.
These all fit..............
Duralast SU7015 or SU7012 (the SU7012 is a little longer) I used a SU7012 and it works fine, as have several other forum members
Airtex 5S5619
Standard Motor Products KS309 or KS305
Denso LNE1692AA
The following 2 users liked this post by Carnival Kid:
Don B (08-05-2019),
haroldleggett (07-29-2019)
#10
The calibration of the car is tailored to a specific design of knock sensor. It has a natural frequency- and this is matched to the frequency of knock.
Going for a different design totally invalidates this.
Im always amused at folks who are too lazy to install the knock sensor in the correct place or even use the correct type. If you cant afford to run the car, why buy it?
If the wire has perished- you're better off fixing the wire on the existing knock sensor than using one of a different design.
- BTW 'works fine' means very little. You dont know if it works well- until you go into KNOCK and can see if the car retards appropriately. All that means is you probably haven't gone into knock- and you don't really know.
Going for a different design totally invalidates this.
Im always amused at folks who are too lazy to install the knock sensor in the correct place or even use the correct type. If you cant afford to run the car, why buy it?
If the wire has perished- you're better off fixing the wire on the existing knock sensor than using one of a different design.
- BTW 'works fine' means very little. You dont know if it works well- until you go into KNOCK and can see if the car retards appropriately. All that means is you probably haven't gone into knock- and you don't really know.
#11
The calibration of the car is tailored to a specific design of knock sensor. It has a natural frequency- and this is matched to the frequency of knock.
Going for a different design totally invalidates this.
Im always amused at folks who are too lazy to install the knock sensor in the correct place or even use the correct type. If you cant afford to run the car, why buy it?
If the wire has perished- you're better off fixing the wire on the existing knock sensor than using one of a different design.
- BTW 'works fine' means very little. You dont know if it works well- until you go into KNOCK and can see if the car retards appropriately. All that means is you probably haven't gone into knock- and you don't really know.
Going for a different design totally invalidates this.
Im always amused at folks who are too lazy to install the knock sensor in the correct place or even use the correct type. If you cant afford to run the car, why buy it?
If the wire has perished- you're better off fixing the wire on the existing knock sensor than using one of a different design.
- BTW 'works fine' means very little. You dont know if it works well- until you go into KNOCK and can see if the car retards appropriately. All that means is you probably haven't gone into knock- and you don't really know.
I'm always amazed at the number of people who will not spend the $20 bucks for the correct coolant -- or who want to service the transmission and not spend a few buck for the correct parts. I was attacked here years ago because I warned about how some were servicing the SC oil ...
#12
The calibration of the car is tailored to a specific design of knock sensor. It has a natural frequency- and this is matched to the frequency of knock.
Going for a different design totally invalidates this.Im always amused at folks who are too lazy to ..............................................use the correct type..
Going for a different design totally invalidates this.Im always amused at folks who are too lazy to ..............................................use the correct type..
The problem is that prices for any/all of these vary wildly depending on the supplier, from around $80 to as much as $300. The other disturbing thing is that there are many knock sensors out there for less than $30 bucks, but it seems that those that fit Jaguars are triple that price....................think we should smell a rat?
#13
Count, just to clarify, the Duralast SU7015 is the OEM part, and the other manufacturers I listed are direct equivalent fitment cross references. The Duralast SU7012 has been tested to be the same resonance but a few inches longer for fitment on a different Jaguar. So all of those listed are correct for the XJ8/XJR.
The problem is that prices for any/all of these vary wildly depending on the supplier, from around $80 to as much as $300. The other disturbing thing is that there are many knock sensors out there for less than $30 bucks, but it seems that those that fit Jaguars are triple that price....................think we should smell a rat?
The problem is that prices for any/all of these vary wildly depending on the supplier, from around $80 to as much as $300. The other disturbing thing is that there are many knock sensors out there for less than $30 bucks, but it seems that those that fit Jaguars are triple that price....................think we should smell a rat?
My memory is that Duralast is the private label for one of the big resellers. Ford used Denso for many of the parts .... You can sometimes purchase parts using the Denso direct part number. And there are obviously cross usage parts -- it's just hard to know for sure unless the manufacture parts match.
#14
I cant comment on the Duralast stuff. I know Ford prefered to use other brands and we forced the issue and used Denso stuff. The early X200 had ALOT of Ford content, the ECU was P-Tech. On the X400 we managed to fight and get Denso just as it is on X308s etc.
In actuality if you drive it sedately- and could fool the ECU- you'd probably be ok, as long as you don't tow or take it to a drag strip or a german Autobahn. Knock is a high load phenomenon typically.
There are things you could buy, cost effectively, like the upper front damper bushes- I went with Meyle-a quality OEM supplier, and for my starter motor I went with a rebuilt Denso unit, and it was like $130 (which isn't bad). I just don't want to mess with the knock sensors.
Jag will always try to screw you, annoys me.
In actuality if you drive it sedately- and could fool the ECU- you'd probably be ok, as long as you don't tow or take it to a drag strip or a german Autobahn. Knock is a high load phenomenon typically.
There are things you could buy, cost effectively, like the upper front damper bushes- I went with Meyle-a quality OEM supplier, and for my starter motor I went with a rebuilt Denso unit, and it was like $130 (which isn't bad). I just don't want to mess with the knock sensors.
Jag will always try to screw you, annoys me.
#15
When I started my company (1990) Ford gave me a deal on a few Continentals -- the rest Mercury Sable LS. Continued buying Sables until I switched to Lexus in 2000. I think my first drive in the X400 was as a loaner -- There was way too much Ford in that thing. I was shocked they made that mistake -- especially since the market and media was looking to pounce for any tie in. The visors were straight out of the Sable ... not that that the quality was bad .. Just horrible optic's. The Sables were actually decent vehicles especially with the better V6.
There are OEM parts -- just not huge number. Many parts were Jaguar only and they did not make enough cars for OEM to stock and sell.
There are OEM parts -- just not huge number. Many parts were Jaguar only and they did not make enough cars for OEM to stock and sell.
#16
The LNE1692AA is a wide-range sensor, it has no calibrated frequency. This type of sensors analyses ALL sounds and noises of the engine and sends it to the ECU which detects detonation among the other noises. It is possible to replace it with any suitable knock sensor with output voltage and resistance matching. I don't know exactly these parameters, some sources says the output is 25 mV and the resistance is 200 kOhms.
I'll be glad if somebody can clarify it.
I'll be glad if somebody can clarify it.
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LAjag
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
11
11-30-2018 05:46 AM
2002, 30l, 99, autozone, code, jag, jaguar, knock, knock sensor, p0328, perforance, performance, reduced, restricted, sensor, stype, xj8, xk8
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