Cheers, I'll investigate more when it's warm enough to take it apart.

 

Started the car up, drove a while and ended up idling ten minutes. Check engine light

What the code? Oh great. Upstream O2 sensor. Great. I need to check the heater on that. Might be fouled or burned out.
That would explain the lumpy idle until it's warmed up.

Phil

 

The Duchess had that problem, and we acquired one. We had a shop install it
due to having no lift to be able to get to it adequately, We have seen other members
who were able to accomplish the task themselves.

 

I'm considering pulling the engine again anyway to put it on the bench and solve the oil leaks. The valve seals have leakdown also but that's not too much of a worry. It's also developed a noisy lifter which is more concerning.
I'm still not 100% convinced I've got a slightly weepy head gasket; it's not using coolant so it's hard to tell. I might stump up for a test kit to see if there's combustion gases in the coolant.
I'll eventually replace the front suspension and then get back to enjoying driving the car.

It's been a hectic few months, here.

Phil

 

I've been ignoring clunks but got to the point I think I need to book mine in for Vee mounts & a front suspension refresh once it gets slightly warmer over here. It's really starting to annoy me & feel a little vague at times on the road, I know the RH Vee mount doesn't look healthy.

 

Any recommendations on brands to use/avoid for oxygen sensors?

 

Went put fuel. Gave it a run at 70 in 3rd for about 5 miles.

Guessing the sensor was grumpy. It's probably borderline bad, but until it starts triggering again I think I'll pretend it didn't happen.

Went undo the shock top nut to pack the top mount with washers to shut it up banging and the little nub on the top sheared off. Great. That'll be meeting Mr Angle Grinder when I get new shocks, then.

Phil

Phil

 

...no, it's totally borderline. Randomly the same code comes back.

Phil

 

I'm learning these cars are proverbially English in a great many ways... including inspiring in drivers a polite fiction, much like the patriarch of an attractive and well-bred family, that EVERYTHING is FINE and it's much the most polite thing to ignore the ominous signs that something is amiss under the hood.

 

English electrical engineering, while adequate in theory, often translated to
sub-par on practice. To be fair, the bean counters more than likely exerted
influence over the approval process such that a 15 year life was deemed (generous assumption)
adequate, and we are almost 15 years beyond that expectation. Plastic
housings, solder points under stress, and natural oxidation of electrical
junction points all begin to cause distress.

 

Replaced the A bank upper oxygen sensor. Took a large breaker bar to undo, typically. Check engine light begone, fuel economy improved.

Phil

 

I had one of those done when I got my car as it kept giving a code. I'm very tempted to get the other three as well to see if it cures the poor MPG it's always had.

 

The two that would affect that are the upper pair. Plenty of other factors, collapsing catalytic converters, blocked mufflers, vacuum leaks, faulty iac and ect sensors also.

Phil

 

I'll have to have a look at the fuel trims, I think they are pretty similar last time I did.

It seems to run fine, has loads of power blah blah blah so it's annoying.

 

Replaced the front shocks, upper mounts and bump stops this afternoon after work.

Much nicer now to drive.

Phil

 

130,000 miles!

Also, fixed the clock console, the trim clip holes had broken last time I had to take it apart.

Glued the broken boots back on and augmented with some Veroboard.


Good enough.

Phil

 

I put a cup in the cup holder yesterday; accelerated and it broke the cup holder through the sheer G forces produced by such a machine.



I glued the broken pieces (stupid design) back together and now it works again.

Also took it completely apart and cleaned it. Yuk. Previous owner liked lattes.

Phil