I'd read several posts here stating that changing the wheel bearings is very difficult and almost impossible without some $130 special tool (Laser 5537) for removing the "ABS ring" on the back of the wheel hub. I've just finished doing the job without the tool and wanted to post how. It's actually quite simple. Once the wheel is off, simply remove the ABS sensor itself from it's boss (using an 8mm wrench I think it was). Then, wedge a screwdriver or some other tool (I ended up using large torx bit) between the ABS sensor boss and the "teeth" of the ABS ring. Now, turn the wheel with a pry bar. This works like a charm and negates the need for the expensive tool or a 2" 12-point socket (which others have said works but is also pretty rare.) I admit, my ring may have been looser than what some people on here have encountered but maybe not.

I'm pretty sure you can reverse the procedure for putting it back on (though I'm not sure how one would torque it to spec this was) but I'll find that out tomorrow when I put it all back together.

 

You can also take the RA (rough ****) approach and belt it off with hammer and cold chisel as they are cheap enough to replace ;o)

 

Neat trick.

You better come back with the results because I'm subscribed now

To torque back to spec, you need to wedge again, get a grip on the center of
the hub with a torque wrench. That could be a nut welded to a bar that fits
between two of the studs.

How are you dealing with the actual removal and installation of the
bearing itself?


cheaper source for the special tool:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ght=laser+5537

 

I have a shop press and am using that for the bearing. I put it back together this morning and haven't torqued the ABS ring yet. I'll probably use the nut welded to a steel bar idea though.

As for the bearing, be careful when pressing the hub back into it. These bearings aren't stable as far as the inner race goes. Make sure you're pressing on the hub and supporting the bearing from the back BY THE INNER RACE, not the outer race and not by the carrier.

 

Just an update here. The method of jamming something in the ABS ring to hold it still while torquing it doesn't work. There's just too much torque required. 270 NM! I'm trying the 2" socket tomorrow but will order the ABS socket if that doesn't work.

 

I tried the 2" socket from Sears (Craftsman) and, while it seems to fit ok, it just won't grip the ring well enough to apply that much torque. I tried grinding the front of it flat (to give it better grip) but it still wasn't enough. Ordering the laser tool now. :/

 

The original trick would only work if your ring were unusually loose. I'm now replacing the bearing on the driver's side and it's so tight I've already destroyed a ratchet and bent my pry bar beyond use. I may be chiseling this off. :\

 

Socket from Sears worked like a charm for me... still have it (should). The nut was a bit rusty, so I used plenty of WD40 or something like that day before.
Be careful wedging things between nut, the nut is some kind of cast iron - may crack like glass.

 

The driver's side ABS ring was on so tight I had to chisel and grind it off! What a pain. This was after soaking it with penetrating oil, heating it with a torch, using two breaker bars (which both broke), etc etc. Even after I'd cut through most of it and then chiseled it until it cracked all the way through, it still wouldn't come off with a breaker bar! I had to use the chisel and a sledgehammer to finally get it to turn!

Bottom line: if you're going to do this job, be ready for it to be a REAL PAIN. Not every time...but it's possible at any time. Also, I suggest you have a good 3/4 inch drive breaker bar. A Craftsman one is only $27 on Amazon.

 

Wow ... not something to look forward to.

 

The correct way to do it is in a press with the correct abs reluctor ring tool
and apply slight pressure in the press while turning with breaker bar
and SNAP!!....it comes loose....works for me ;o))

 

Correct tool and 3/4 inch breaker bar. You just got lucky with the loose one.

 

Ok, I'll bite ... pressure on what?

 

This picture always comes to mind when I read about these:

 

I keep on wondering if the arms and spindle/hub from the X300
would fit the X308. Much more sane design.

 

I shall endeavor to replace the wheel bearing myself tomorrow. I'll be using the special tool and a heavy duty air impact wrench. Press and ramp available. Fingers crossed...

Noud

 

Pleased to confirm I completed the job. Challenging enough, but ABS ring came off after using WD40 and the impact wrench of course. 22 ton press was struggling with the bearing but I got there in the end. Having the right tools is important, I rented a ramp and the heavy tools in a local DIY workshop.

Noud

 

It's funny, just wanted to add this here:

There's a video on youtube, I won't link it directly but any jag wheel bearing search will find it. Some guy, using a 2" socket and ranting about "why they make you spend money when you can do this!" and proceeds to show him using an impact with that socket - While the socket dances, and slips, and strips all over the ABS ring in both directions lol. Yep, seems SOOOO much less invasive that way!

(not to say that with it pressed on the floor, that it wouldn't have a better grip, but seriously, if you're gonna make a video about an alternative, don't show the alternative looking so flaky!)

 

I bought a 2" 12-point socket and used my heavy duty impact gun. After a few times with that the abs ring came of without a mark on it. It was rusty. I paid to have the bearing pressed out and new one pressed in by a machine shop since they have the proper tools. The biggest amount of time I spent was customizing the ball joint separator I bought. Otherwise the job was pretty easy and all in for less than $160 parts and tools. Jaguar wanted almost $700