Mechanic in Kansas City?
#1
Mechanic in Kansas City?
Hi, I just bought a 1987 XJ6 at an auction. It runs and stops but needs some work. Does anyone know a good and trustworthy mechanic in Kansas City?
If not, my thought was to take it to the local dealer and ask to get the 75,000 mile maintenance work (or whatever the big one is) and see what they say needs doing. I'm not keen on spending $1,000 for what may be an oil change and diagnostic, but the local guy I trust doesn't work on Jags.
thanks in advance, bryan.
If not, my thought was to take it to the local dealer and ask to get the 75,000 mile maintenance work (or whatever the big one is) and see what they say needs doing. I'm not keen on spending $1,000 for what may be an oil change and diagnostic, but the local guy I trust doesn't work on Jags.
thanks in advance, bryan.
#2
Local So Cal dealers would not work on it..
They pretty much draw the line at five (5) years olds.. no parts, booksor training on their own older cars.
Hopefully you will get a good independent referral in your area... I cannot image having to pay for normal maintenance items/work.. DIY...
Maybe some trans and AC work - plus I do not paint exteriors.
Hopefully you will get a good independent referral in your area... I cannot image having to pay for normal maintenance items/work.. DIY...
Maybe some trans and AC work - plus I do not paint exteriors.
#3
Yeah, no dealer will touch your car nor should you want them to. Any service you would get would be vastly over-priced.
I know that I once took my old Xj6 Series III into Able Auto Service on Osage (if I remember correctly) for an R12 recharge while I was temporarily in Kansas City and was quoted a reasonable price at the time and was charged less than quoted. Ice cold thereafter. They seemed honest but I can't really vouch for more beyond that they recharged me and had the car done in a timely manner and didn't upcharge me later.
But, if it's already running and driving I would suggest you learn to do and do the following things on your own BEFORE taking it in because these are simple tasks which can be performed by anyone capable of reading the instructions and pictures on the threads in this forum:
1. Spark plug and wire replacement
2. Air Filter replacement
3. Fuel Filter replacement
4. Ground connection cleaning
5. Oil and Oil Filter Change Change
6. Fluid Check
This includes power steering, transmission fluid, coolant, and oil (after the change).
These procedures are described in detail and with illustrations in both the Haynes manual (which is ok but not great) and in these free diagrams I have linked to on this site:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...62/#post737352
Knowing how to do (and as importantly not paying someone else to do them) will save you hundreds if not even thousands of dollars over the course of owning the vehicle and you most likely be in the vast majority of owners for whom doing these things for the first time dramatically improves the cars performance and for whom regularly performing this maintenance reduces the cost and increases the pleasure of owning the car.
Thereafter, if you want to take it in to have them run through it once, that might be a good idea just so you can create a list of priorities about other problems. There are some projects which require either special tools, extraordinary patience&time, or the type of garage space and working conditions that my living situation doesn't afford (there's only so much you can in a narrow gravel driveway) which in my opinion are generally worth paying a honest, reliable shop to do.
Just my two cents. I'm sure others who actually live in the area can give more advice. In what little time I've been there, I tended to see a more old series II and III Xj6s than in any other city I've ever visited and generally in very nice condition. The KC area craigslist generally has several fine examples for sell at any given time. This would lead one to believe that there are probably also a lot of parts cars out behind sheds in the area and maybe even some in foreign junkyards - in fact, I just googled foreign auto parts stores and found that Rich Import Auto recyclers on Winchester has 4 Series III parts cars right now including photos and a listing of the parts:
New Stock
The more you perform this simple maintenance you will find other tasks are also within your skill and ability and you have ample sources of cheap parts locally available and many people on this forum who are likely to be more knowledge than the random luck of the draw mechanic.
Good luck and enjoy!
I know that I once took my old Xj6 Series III into Able Auto Service on Osage (if I remember correctly) for an R12 recharge while I was temporarily in Kansas City and was quoted a reasonable price at the time and was charged less than quoted. Ice cold thereafter. They seemed honest but I can't really vouch for more beyond that they recharged me and had the car done in a timely manner and didn't upcharge me later.
But, if it's already running and driving I would suggest you learn to do and do the following things on your own BEFORE taking it in because these are simple tasks which can be performed by anyone capable of reading the instructions and pictures on the threads in this forum:
1. Spark plug and wire replacement
2. Air Filter replacement
3. Fuel Filter replacement
4. Ground connection cleaning
5. Oil and Oil Filter Change Change
6. Fluid Check
This includes power steering, transmission fluid, coolant, and oil (after the change).
These procedures are described in detail and with illustrations in both the Haynes manual (which is ok but not great) and in these free diagrams I have linked to on this site:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...62/#post737352
Knowing how to do (and as importantly not paying someone else to do them) will save you hundreds if not even thousands of dollars over the course of owning the vehicle and you most likely be in the vast majority of owners for whom doing these things for the first time dramatically improves the cars performance and for whom regularly performing this maintenance reduces the cost and increases the pleasure of owning the car.
Thereafter, if you want to take it in to have them run through it once, that might be a good idea just so you can create a list of priorities about other problems. There are some projects which require either special tools, extraordinary patience&time, or the type of garage space and working conditions that my living situation doesn't afford (there's only so much you can in a narrow gravel driveway) which in my opinion are generally worth paying a honest, reliable shop to do.
Just my two cents. I'm sure others who actually live in the area can give more advice. In what little time I've been there, I tended to see a more old series II and III Xj6s than in any other city I've ever visited and generally in very nice condition. The KC area craigslist generally has several fine examples for sell at any given time. This would lead one to believe that there are probably also a lot of parts cars out behind sheds in the area and maybe even some in foreign junkyards - in fact, I just googled foreign auto parts stores and found that Rich Import Auto recyclers on Winchester has 4 Series III parts cars right now including photos and a listing of the parts:
New Stock
The more you perform this simple maintenance you will find other tasks are also within your skill and ability and you have ample sources of cheap parts locally available and many people on this forum who are likely to be more knowledge than the random luck of the draw mechanic.
Good luck and enjoy!
#4
I whole-heartedly agree, and I will slowly learn how to do some things, but I'm never going to learn how to do others, unfortunately. I drove to the dealer to ask them to do a 75,000 check-up and was told their mechanic for old cars was retiring that day. He spent about an hour with my car up on the lift, just poking around at everything, told me he was opening his own shop, and gave me an estimate for everything. He seems like a good guy--very nice and knowledgeable and honest, which was the biggest key to me. Any opinions on the costs, because except for the windshield wipers and door locks, i'm inclined to bite the bullet and fix it all?
Here is the list of things I found on your car:
Repair Part price Labor Total
Replace left fuel tank $350 $250 $600
Replace upper & lower ball joints $110 $290 $400 These 3 items would need to be done at
Replace upper control arm bushings $80 $120 $200 the same time, and the car will need an
Replace front subframe bushings $40 $65 $105 alignment afterward.
Adjust upper timing chain $5 $100 $105
Replace front swaybar bushings $20 $100 $120
Replace all (6) shocks $390 $265 $655
Replace W/S wiper switch $140 $100 $240
Remove door panels, free up
lock mechanisms $100 $100
Here are the items we spoke about yesterday:
Replace alternator $175 $90 $265
Convert AC system to
R-134, charge, leak test $100 $80 $180
Replace spark plugs, air
filter, fuel filter, transmission
fluid & filter, flush brake fluid $110 $215 $325
I think that's everything...if you have any questions, don't hesitate to call or e-mail me.
Here is the list of things I found on your car:
Repair Part price Labor Total
Replace left fuel tank $350 $250 $600
Replace upper & lower ball joints $110 $290 $400 These 3 items would need to be done at
Replace upper control arm bushings $80 $120 $200 the same time, and the car will need an
Replace front subframe bushings $40 $65 $105 alignment afterward.
Adjust upper timing chain $5 $100 $105
Replace front swaybar bushings $20 $100 $120
Replace all (6) shocks $390 $265 $655
Replace W/S wiper switch $140 $100 $240
Remove door panels, free up
lock mechanisms $100 $100
Here are the items we spoke about yesterday:
Replace alternator $175 $90 $265
Convert AC system to
R-134, charge, leak test $100 $80 $180
Replace spark plugs, air
filter, fuel filter, transmission
fluid & filter, flush brake fluid $110 $215 $325
I think that's everything...if you have any questions, don't hesitate to call or e-mail me.
#5
Take one item I am very familiar with - gas tank
I just changed both of my S1 tanks for S3 tanks with new cap gaskets, cap O-rings and fuel sender gaskets.
Having done this task in other Jaguars, I can change it out by myself in about three hours... tanks cost $333.10 delivered. Cap gasket another $6.00 and the O-ring and fuel sender gasket was included with the new Spectra tank.
I had to clean up the old sender, adjust the arm following the resistance pad and confirm it was OK. More time spent - but required for a good job.
R&R of the tank is not a fun job, as removing the cap is most of the job as it is "corroded/stuck" in the tank hole. Then removing the side valance for access to the bottom and the actual removal - replacing the cap vent hose and other vent hose if needed. Then fitting the tank back in place and centering the cap hole before tightening all up again.
His price of $250.00 for labor is fine... $350.00 good parts price. Seems to charge about $75.00 per hour.. I saved $500.00 or about the cost of the two tanks by doing it all myself.. the only way to own one of these old cars and "restore" it back into safe drivable shape.
Having done this task in other Jaguars, I can change it out by myself in about three hours... tanks cost $333.10 delivered. Cap gasket another $6.00 and the O-ring and fuel sender gasket was included with the new Spectra tank.
I had to clean up the old sender, adjust the arm following the resistance pad and confirm it was OK. More time spent - but required for a good job.
R&R of the tank is not a fun job, as removing the cap is most of the job as it is "corroded/stuck" in the tank hole. Then removing the side valance for access to the bottom and the actual removal - replacing the cap vent hose and other vent hose if needed. Then fitting the tank back in place and centering the cap hole before tightening all up again.
His price of $250.00 for labor is fine... $350.00 good parts price. Seems to charge about $75.00 per hour.. I saved $500.00 or about the cost of the two tanks by doing it all myself.. the only way to own one of these old cars and "restore" it back into safe drivable shape.
Last edited by Roger Mabry; 08-14-2015 at 11:22 AM.
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studentper (08-14-2015)
#6
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Replace upper & lower ball joints $110 $290 $400
Replace upper control arm bushings $80 $120 $200
Replace upper control arm bushings $80 $120 $200
First you need to find a good repair manual or search this forum because someone in here has done just about everything that could be done (and some things no one thought could be done) and probably posted about it with pictures. Look here, beginning with post #83:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-125023/page5/
Again here, post #145 and 157, 158:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-125023/page8/
Post #166:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...d-125023/page9
Replace front subframe bushings $40 $65 $105.
[...]Adjust upper timing chain $5 $100 $105
Replace front swaybar bushings $20 $100 $120
Replace all (6) shocks $390 $265 $655
Replace W/S wiper switch $140 $100 $240
[...]Replace alternator $175 $90 $265
Convert AC system to R-134, charge, leak test $100 $80 $180
Replace spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, transmission fluid & filter, flush brake fluid $110 $215 $325[...]
I don't see anything on this list that's not doable DIY except for the timing chain. I've never done a Jaguar timing chain so I don't know what's involved, but I know others in here have, and they will be glad to 'talk' you through it.
Some items are a little harder and more trepiditious than others, but certainly not impossible, especially if you have a garage to work in.
(';')
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Roger Mabry (08-14-2015)
#7
I agree with all the opinions in here. DO IT YOURSELF. if you can understand righty tighty, lefty loosy, and you have eyeballs, then you can work on your own car. You'll be self rewarded, learn about your car, and be proud at how mush money you saved. Most of the things you have listed, I've already done and they were all easy, some just time consuming.
Oh, by the way. I've owned my own shop and have had many friends that were mechanics at shops. The most important thing I learned from all of them unanimously is "DON"T TRUST A MECHANIC". My 2 cents!
Oh, by the way. I've owned my own shop and have had many friends that were mechanics at shops. The most important thing I learned from all of them unanimously is "DON"T TRUST A MECHANIC". My 2 cents!
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#8
#9
as a fellow student, agreed about concern re: the gas tank and suspension work - having done each once and paid someone once, I think I'd pay someone to do the tank again (I sent it off to have it recoated and a radiator and aluminum shop) but the suspension wasn't too bad - this is another time when spaze/time and tools are key. This IS work within your capacity to do (in theory). The question is if you realistically think the access to space and ability to organize many small bits and pieces without losing or misplacing a single one while working. In my driveway, sometimes the answer is yes and sometimes no.
Especially as you are just starting I'd say pay someone for the tank and suspension work and do the rest yourself (possibly to the exclusion of brakes if you can't rent a bleeder/don't have a patient friend). Just my two cents.
Alternator addendum:
I agree that alternator replacement is very easy HOWEVER - its important to make sure if you buy a recharged alternator that it comes with a strong warranty. Last time I replaced mine with a rebuilt unit, the shop went through 4 defective parts before finding correct one.
Especially as you are just starting I'd say pay someone for the tank and suspension work and do the rest yourself (possibly to the exclusion of brakes if you can't rent a bleeder/don't have a patient friend). Just my two cents.
Alternator addendum:
I agree that alternator replacement is very easy HOWEVER - its important to make sure if you buy a recharged alternator that it comes with a strong warranty. Last time I replaced mine with a rebuilt unit, the shop went through 4 defective parts before finding correct one.
#10
In all honesty. Bleeding the brakes can be done with one person. I've done it hundreds of times. Long ago I had a bleeder system and the check valve went bad. I let off slowly and pushed hard. Worked like a charm. Took s bit longer and used a bit more fluid(but that just flushed it more) but worked fine. On a few imports is leave it idle with the bleeder just cracked and the vibration would bubble the air out.
Been doing it by myself for about 10 years that way and have never had a problem.
My 2 cents! Don't try this a home. (Disclaimer). I accept no responsibility but I will help you thru it if you actually want me to.
Been doing it by myself for about 10 years that way and have never had a problem.
My 2 cents! Don't try this a home. (Disclaimer). I accept no responsibility but I will help you thru it if you actually want me to.
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