1988 XJS Coupe, Vin is SAJNA5848JC143089, GM400 automatic transmission, 92K miles on odometer. After replacing all the inner and outer bearings of all 4 wheels (rear and front), I still have a howling sound that starts and stops as the car is rolling. The faster you go the louder and a bit higher in pitch it goes. With windows rolled up you can hear it all the way to a stop of the car. There is a new set of 15" Michelin tires on the car. If I accelerate/decelerate, or put the car in coasting in neutral at speed there seems to be no change at all in noise. I'm now considering the final drive bearings as the source. I'm still trying to determine the source and am now going to order new Timken bearings. Is the CAC4999 (qty 4) the correct output bearings used in this year. This car has the 14 bolt skid plate that I haven't removed yet but want to get the order placed ahead of time. ..........Also, is this job something I can do underneath the car without dropping the whole final drive??

 

CAC4999 is the Jaguar part number for the bearings.

The bearing number for Timken, SKF or *** will be different.

You can cross reference and buy the bearings locally.

The collapsible spacer (crush sleeve) RTC1348 will likely need to be obtained from the Jaguar dealer or online Jaguar parts supplier.
The seal and 'O'ring can be cross referenced or buy them with the spacer from a supplier.

The spacer takes quite a lot of force to get the initial bend. I usually put them in a shop press to just barely start the 'crush' and then install them for final fitment. It only takes less than a Millimeter to get the collapsible spacer started.

bob

 

Okay thanks, got it. I'm hoping that I don't have to replace the input pinion bearings, which utilizes the crush sleeve. I'm starting with replacing the output shaft bearings on each side. The right side output shaft has a minor oil leak anyway so that might be a clue. If I have to replace the pinion shaft bearings as well, I'll probably drop the whole unit out and rebuild the whole thing. At present I'm looking for the easier (?) way of finding the noisy culprit by starting with the passenger side output shaft bearings pair, since I have to replace the seal anyway. I'm certainly open for any tips or suggestions at this point, including the degree of difficulty of working under the car (not dropping the unit) to do one side output shaft bearing replacement. ..............thanks, Mike..

 

Mike
FWIW, removing the cage is not that hard; and once out everything is SO much easier, you will save time effort and pain! Also you can R&R the brakes, check everything is tight, etc etc, while you are doing the diff.

 

Thanks Greg. If I have to go that far in to it I'll look at what I have to do to get the cage down. I'm getting set up with the parts in hand first and then will evaluate an approach. I've learned to have the correct parts in hand first before tearing things down and having it scattered all over awaiting parts, especially things like shims that aren't locally available. ..............Mike

 

All the bearings are very common, I was able to get them off the shelf at a local bearing house.

When I did a diff rebuild I found I was able to reuse the existing crush sleeve and still have proper preload. Bearings are typically very precise, so there is not much difference from one to another.

 

I assume you are talking about the diff output bearings. There is no way you can do the pinion bearing without removing the rearend.

Greg is right dropping the rear cage is pretty straight forward, usually the hardest part is the radius arm cups.

 

There was a recent thread about how to do this, which might be useful, I'll try to find it. Here it is (see post 14 for cage drop sequence):
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-more-197186/


Totally agree about having all the parts, just what I do. It also hides the true expense as I forget quite quickly!

 

THERE IS A COLLAPSIBLE SPACER BETWEEN THE OUTPUT BEARINGS!!!!!
There is ALSO one between the pinion bearings.

bob

 

Thanks to all who responded. I think I'll just go ahead and order the pinion bearings and sleeve to keep on hand if I have to drop the cage. I have the half-shaft bearings coming but didn't order crush sleeves so will also order them too. I've done several differential rebuilds in past years but nothing like the IRS Jag rear end. I'll drop it all down if necessary but will first see if I can get away with just replacing the output bearings and seals. When replacing the rear wheel hub bearings/seals I noticed that the inboard rotors and pads appear to have been replaced very recently. I'm going to have another look at the diff and try to identify it. I believe the output flanges are not the 3 hole style but I'm now wanting to confirm that since at the time I was under the car I wasn't aware there was a difference. That may make a difference in my parts order.....O ring, Seal ???.

 

Ok, I'm slow, .....but methodical. So far I haven't found the one exact source of the rolling noise I referred to in my intial post here. Potential culprits were wheel bearing noise so here is what I've found so far including what I confirmed I actually have on this 1988 XJS 5.3L car. The rear end (final drive) is indeed the Dana, not the Salisbury as I originally thought. I actually ordered bearings for the Salisbury and had to return them. Looking at the cost of what Jaguar wanted ($150 - $200+ each) for the output bearings in the Dana I decided to research the alternative number, knowing that Jaguar doesn't manufacture their own bearings. I found that the same bearing is the Timken JRM353590U01 and is listed online for the '88 XJS for $59.00 each at the Rockauto.com website (I bought 2). It's actually known as a "cylinder" bearing which is actually 2 bearings (double row) all in one sleeve. That same bearing is used in other applications like Kenworth and Peterbuilt trucks.

To date what I have done is ruled out all the easier options. I have replaced and repacked both rear hub bearings with new Timken bearings and seals. Last night i just completed replacement of both front wheel bearings and seals. This car was garaged kept its entire life (now still is, my garage now) so I don't have to deal with rust issues. All the brake rotors and pads were replaced on the car as well. However, when I removed the wheel on the front driver side I found that it had significant resistance to rotation (wheel spindle nut was very tight). This may have caused some of my rolling noise, but not sure. Perhaps the brake jockey doing the brake work used an impact wrench to put the spindle nut on? What I have noticed in doing all this work is that the rolling noise has decreased in loudness significantly, a small bit at a time as I have progressed through this replacement process so far. None of the bearings I removed were visibly "bad" but at '95K miles and 30 years old had definite wear (more light brown than shiny).

As to for my Dana final drive, I bought another one that is supposed to be in excellent condition with no noise issues. He did tell me he thought the "break-away" torque was less than what he thought it should be but otherwise the price of $250 (included shipping!) was fair. I will put my new bearings in this unit as well as a new friction clutch set and just trade out the units when I'm ready to pull out the cage to minimize down time on the car. I have now have new ujoints for the driveshaft, new ujoints for both axle halfshafts, and a new seal for the yoke input.

I'll update again with more parts numbers and adventures as time permits. ..................Mike.

 

Ok, I'm slow, .....but methodical. So far I haven't found the one exact source of the rolling noise I referred to in my intial post here. Potential culprits were wheel bearing noise so here is what I've found so far including what I confirmed I actually have on this 1988 XJS 5.3L car. The rear end (final drive) is indeed the Dana, not the Salisbury as I originally thought. I actually ordered bearings for the Salisbury and had to return them. Looking at the cost of what Jaguar wanted ($150 - $200+ each) for the output bearings in the Dana I decided to research the alternative number, knowing that Jaguar doesn't manufacture their own bearings. I found that the same bearing is the Timken JRM353590U01 and is listed online for the '88 XJS for $59.00 each at the Rockauto.com website (I bought 2). It's actually known as a "cylinder" bearing which is actually 2 bearings (double row) all in one sleeve. That same bearing is used in other applications like Kenworth and Peterbuilt trucks.

To date what I have done is ruled out all the easier options. I have replaced and repacked both rear hub bearings with new Timken bearings and seals. Last night i just completed replacement of both front wheel bearings and seals. This car was garaged kept its entire life (now still is, my garage now) so I don't have to deal with rust issues. All the brake rotors and pads were replaced on the car as well. However, when I removed the wheel on the front driver side I found that it had significant resistance to rotation (wheel spindle nut was very tight). This may have caused some of my rolling noise, but not sure. Perhaps the brake jockey doing the brake work used an impact wrench to put the spindle nut on? What I have noticed in doing all this work is that the rolling noise has decreased in loudness significantly, a small bit at a time as I have progressed through this replacement process so far. None of the bearings I removed were visibly "bad" but at '95K miles and 30 years old had definite wear (more light brown than shiny).

As to for my Dana final drive, I bought another one that is supposed to be in excellent condition with no noise issues. He did tell me he thought the "break-away" torque was less than what he thought it should be but otherwise the price of $250 (included shipping!) was fair. I will put my new bearings in this unit as well as a new friction clutch set and just trade out the units when I'm ready to pull out the cage to minimize down time on the car. I have now have new ujoints for the driveshaft, new ujoints for both axle halfshafts, and a new seal for the yoke input.

I'll update again with more parts numbers and adventures as time permits. ..................Mike.