Went to the an independant jag shop but they don't have the machine to flush and replace all oil. To do a partial oil change of the gearbox would cost $600. The local jag dealer don't do it either and wanted $850 for the same job!
Found a gearbox specialist who has the machine and will do a flush for $900.

Changing the oil partially in the gearbox I don't like, blending 12 year old oil with new!? It's like doing an engine oil change and leaving oil litre in the engine.

 

See this outstanding thread by Forum member flyc2c. He explains everything you need to know together with photos.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...07-xkr-155883/

 

Nice write-up but I want to change all the fluid, not just in the pan. It's expensive but then again I won't need to do it as long as I own the car!:-)

 

Without intention to start a controversial discussion on fluid shock...

You can change fluid gradually, with multiple drain-the-pan changes. There is no need to drain all of it at once to arrive to good enough fluid.

I recommend doing just pan drain changes gradually over multiple times, and changing pan/filter on the last drain-fill.

 

How much fluid does the converter hold at rest anyway? Can't be that much. Add in 1 liter max for the cooler and it's almost negligible.
ALSO, I just heard that a Pan-Drop takes almost 12 quarts, not the six I was led to believe. So, which is it? 12 liters and my source is confused? I dunno, he's pretty reliable. I don't want to be half-full when I do it.

 

Pan drop is 6 liters tops. SC system only holds 10 liters. NA holds 9.5. Say 1 liter for the cooler and lines and the torque converter would hold 2.5 NA or 3 SC. (guessing on how much is in the cooler and lines.)

 

So I guess then that the six quarts I bought is way more than sufficient...

 

Yes it should be more than sufficient assuming it wasn't already running low.

I presume you're using LG-6 liquid gold. If it's me, I'm bringing 7 to the shop. You can always return what you don't use. Odds are very high you won't need the extra but unless it's available locally, you would have down time. On the other hand, a Hyundai dealership my do it for less and they have all the fluid you need.

 

I don't want to change the oil more then once and having it all flushed out gives me piece of mind knowing it's all new and fresh!:-) Expensive yes but having a shop doing it twice will be more expensive and doing it myself I feel not confidant enough to tackle.

 

Older cars have drain holes directly on the torque converters which is accessible from under the vehicle by removing a cover from the transmission cover area near the flex plate.
Since I've never taken anything apart under my XKR, I've no idea on these beasts. No doubt a drain hole would save a LOT of work by not removing the entire tranny to access the torque converter.

 

In 2014 we had an excellent forum meeting at Mackie Automatic Transmissions in Glasgow, Scotland where we saw the overhaul process and the correct way to drain and replace all fluid:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...ssions-114845/

A complete drain and flush is the only way for me.

Graham

 

....and when (mileage) is the recommended fluid change?

 

From ZF:


ZF automatic transmissions are filled with specially developed semi-synthetic oils.
At very high operating temperatures, the oil ages faster than under normal conditions. Examples:
 Many trips at high speeds.
 Many trips with a trailer in tow.
 Sporty driving.
Depending on the driving style, ZF therefore recommends a transmission oil change every 80 000 to 120 000 km, or after 8 years at the latest.

 

I rebuilt my Ford C6 automatic 3-speed as my first tranny attempt, using all B&M racing parts. It was surprisingly simple as long as meticulous parts care and inventory is observed. I was at first quite apprehensive about it, but everything went perfectly smooth.
Of course there were a few less parts, but the theories are all the same.