My 2000 XK8 with 103,000 will not start. The car doesn't get driven a lot but I do start it and run it. I got into the car yesterday to take it out for a drive. On first turn of the key I got nothing. On the second turn it started right up. I got to my destination and when I came back out to the car the same thing happened. I drove home and parked the car in front of my house. When I went back to move the car I got nothing from the ignition. I will add that the kick panel below the steering column is not staying up. The radio isn't turning off with the key.
Another thing is that I put a connector for a battery tender onto the battery terminals. When I hooked the cables back up I here a sound from the box above the CD changer. It sounds like a whirring noise. What is that ?
I am going to remove the entire kick panel as soon as I get some time and check all the wiring in that area. I am thinking that I have a bad ignition switch ?

 

Next time, hit the valve on the fuel rail and see if you get a spurt of gas. Left side fuel rail at the back of the engine. Mine had a green screw on cover, like a tire valve. Can't remember the name of it right now.
Fuel pump problems with cars that set, like mine, are a issue. Not a bad job if you are prepared, lots of stuff to take apart to get the tank out. Read the threads and try not to cry.

 

Schrader valve I believe is the term you were looking for. When you say you get nothing, does the engine rotate? Does it just click? Or does the starter engage and the engine spins like normal, but won't actually fire up? Could be several different things depending on what EXACTLY it does or doesn't do with the first turn of the key. You said you added a battery tender plug, have you actually had it on the tender the whole time? Are you sure the voltage is actually going to the battery? Just some questions

 

Try wiggling the ground strap, or if the ground strap is hot that's a sure sign of a bad connection.

 

Nothing happens when the key is turned or it starts.
I will check the ground wire. I've had that happen before although some things still work.

 

You might check the ECM for a P1260 (Security input malfunction).
Could be a KTM to ECM fault? (key not recognized)
I see this fault on many cars when I scan the ECM. Most times this happens and people just turn the key again and the engine starts but the fault is logged.

 

I just removed some old after market wiring. I'm not sure if it had anything to do with the problem. I pulled the battery and have it charging. I'm done with it for today. I'll get back to it later in the week.
Thanks for all the input.

 

If you can reach it with a hammer or a hammer and a thin pipe (from a small hydraulic jack works well), hit the starter motor.

Having said this, I don't know if you can reach it on an XK8 (and it's raining outside, so I'm not going to crawl under the car to look), but whenever my starter motor doesn't turn on my other cars and truck, I have hit them with a hammer.

If nothing happens, I look elsewhere. If the car starts, it's the starter motor (and/or solenoid).

The hammer is my go-to diagnostic tool, especially for starter motor issues. Don't hit the motor too hard.

 

I will say the only downfall of hitting the starter, as well as other more modern electric motors, is that they have magnets that are glued on inside and it can actually break and dislodge some of the magnet causing it to never work. Don't get me wrong, I know you said not to hit it hard, but sometimes you go "well maybe I didn't hit it hard enough". Also I have done it before because I was shown by my dad, who was shown by his dad, who was probably shown by his dad. It is one of those "common fixes" that has stuck around, much like testing for spark by just putting a plug in the end of the wire or coil and holding it against the engine, since early motoring. Yes sometimes they still work, but things were built differently back then. I didn't find out or even think about it until recently that you can actually cause major electrical issues to modern computer controlled cars by doing the spark plug check. Part of me was thinking maybe the starter, or wires to the starter too, but like I've told several people I know, the old adage of "if you've got fuel, air and spark it'll run" really aren't as true anymore. All it takes is one sensor or relay not sending the correct signal, or the computer not interpreting it properly, for a car not to run anymore. Smh

 

Well, I don't know that I would bang (lightly) on the starter motor or solenoid of my new Chevy with the Auto Stop feature that shuts off the motor at stop lights. I would imagine there is a sensor and trouble code on the new car's starter motor at any rate.

But on a 20 year old Jaguar, I'd risk it. That said, I would probably check the many and appropriate fuses, relays and junction boxes first. Not so much because I am afraid of the old ways damaging the starter motor (and I'm not disagreeing with you as the plastic and glue on these old Jags is especially brittle), but because these cars have a plethora of fragile electrical components, any one of which could sabotage your car on a moment's notice.

If I sound a little salty, I am. Don't get me wrong. I love driving my XK8 and admiring its lovely lines. And my car isn't running too badly - though not perfectly - at present. It's just that sometimes, I feel like hitting it with a hammer. Whether it needs it or not!

 

I would like to hit my wife's 2006 XK8 with a hammer right now and force it to clear the last remaining readiness monitor that steadfastly refuses to budge....

 

Jon,

Could you be affected by the Readiness stuff - I'll attach the PDF.

 

John,

Thanks for that TSB. I will try the drive cycle listed within it. I just returned from yet another 20-mile drive that failed to clear this last "comprehensive component" monitor. In order to perform the drive cycle in this TSB, the engine must be started from cold so perhaps I will give it a try tomorrow or Sunday....