Hi all, potentially about to buy my first Jag, a 2002 xkr with 43k miles, I'll add a link to it below in case anyone wants to take a look. From what I've read so far, these are things I should be looking for. If anyone can advise on anything else to keep an eye out and if the price seems reasonable etc it would be greatly appreciated, all advice is appreciated.

Issues to look out for:
1. Tensioner issues, The conversion to metal tensioner occurred on August 13, 2001 so I'm hoping to find out this week if it's post that date, fingers crossed
2. I'm going to check if the cam chain tensioners been replaced, all of them + the water pump.
3. Checking for general rust etc

Looking forward to hearing from you all, all the best, Angus

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202109157388944

 

I like the color and wheels

 

Thanks fella, I see you have a 2005 model, how have you got on with it? Love it?

 

Hi Angus and welcome to the forum.

The build date you note is the engine build date, and is the engine number in yymmdd hh:mm format. It may not have been fitted to a car until some time later, so an early MY2002 may miss that.
You need to check the engine number is 010813 00:00 onwards. I think it is in the log book (or whatever the UK calls the registration document these days)?

The MOT history on the UK site:
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
looks clean for a UK car:- no corrosion notifications other than for a couple of brake pipes.

It does look very tidy, although still do a thorough rust check on the usual places.

Other things? Check all the accessories and gadgets work, also anything made of rubber (think suspension & cooling) is suspect on a 20 year old car. Service history is important:- not just the annual oil change/tyre kick service, but other things that will have aged out.

+1 on the colour

 

Hi Michael, and thanks for getting back to me, much appreciated. Re checking the engine number, thank you, I will most definitely look in to that. Should it be before late 2002 and the part being plastic not metal, what would you recommend? Thanks for looking at the not history, that's very kind of you so thank you. Where would you recommend looking for rust especially and should I be concerned about rust on the brake pipes, are the costly/difficult to replace?
regarding aged rubber parts, is there anything in particular I should check for in the services log?

Thanks once again for your help and insight, it is invaluable and very much appreciated

 

At that price a full 12 months MOT would be nice. It runs out at the same time as the warranty as things stand although I doubt the warranty covers much.

It does look nice though.

 

Thanks mike, I believe their website says they offer at least 6 months MOT so I will chase for this to be undertaken

 

The enigne number should be 010813 00:00 or newer: -e.g. engine number 010813 00:05 would be good, 010812 23:45 would have plastic-bodied tensioners. The only caveat I would make is that if the number is very close to the changeover, I'd make further enquiries. Post it back if you can get sight of the log book and someone will advise. Sorry if I wasn't clear.

The corroded brake pipes will have been attended to since they're no longer showing as advisories so I dont' think they need be a concern.

Common rust areas are the rear sills (both behind and in front of the rear wheel, rear suspension mounting points near the rear sill, cabin floor and behind the suspension on the front crossbeam. The MOT history on this car makes no mention of any of those places (most unusual), although it will do no harm to check!

For rubber parts, think any and all suspension bushings and cooling parts.

If you can find someone who knows these cars that you can take along with you, or perhaps a pre-purchase inspection? Whereabouts are you in good ole blighty & are you DIY?

 

Thanks Michael, I will post the engine number on here as soon as I can get it from the log book, I will contact the seller for it tomorrow. Re corroded brake pipes, good to know, I checked the not link you posted and are correct, no longer being flagged and I will check all the areas you mentioned for rust. Re a pre purchase inspection, I have emailed a few jaguar specialists to see if I can get them to attend fprban inspection for a fee but failing that I will go through the RAC or AA as they can do a detailed one fir around Ł260. I'm based in London and the cat is located from Essex which is around 30 mins away. This will be my first proper car, fir want of a better word, I've not done any car maintence myself per say but I'm practical so I'm more than happy to learn and get my hands dirty. Thanks for all your advice, youve been incredibly helpful

 

i
If you have no experience as a car mechanic and intend to get all work done by a dealer don't buy it as you will go bankrupt.

 

I'm never sure how far an AA inspection goes. They won't take anything off and I doubt that they will get in on a ramp which is how some bushes and ball joints are assessed, it's also your best bet to spot rust. Do they even take it for a drive?

I agree with Psntbroke about getting things fixed at a dealership but in contrast I have two options near my really small village who would make a good go of repairs as they are good mechanics/engineers as opposed to guys who can swap stuff out and at modest cost. You may well find a small garage that is Ok with this technology and can do what's required at reasonable cost.

But at the price being asked I would hope it's pretty much OK as it stands.

 

Welcome to the forums Angus,

A Jaguar is not just transport. It's a driving experience and different standards apply.

Looks like the mechanical concerns have been covered above already and from the Autotrader photos, it looks a tidy example.

The number one question asked by new members after purchasing a used Jaguar is 'where can I get another key/remote?' Make sure it comes with 2 x black headed master keys and 2 x remote fobs. A green headed valet key is also included originally but few of us in this country would think of handing our car over to a spotty youth to park it. A replacement key (either type) costs well into three figures so make sure the dealer is the one to pay if applicable.

Take the opportunity to collect as much paperwork as possible. Handbooks, service history, receipts etc. Finding previous owners used to be easy but DVLA will no longer release this information citing Data Protection. However, you do have the right to examine the V5C to check the VIN matches the vehicle so, of course, can see the previous registered keeper.

43K is exceptionally low mileage for a UK based X100 and servicing should therefore have been done on a time elapsed basis - every 12 months. Ask appropriate questions of the vendor.

I always check EVERY switch and feature works on a used Jaguar. This only takes around 15 minutes but is a sensible precaution. Some features that may appear insignificant can cost a lot to repair.

I hope it checks out and you are soon a Jaguar owner but the best advice is always - if in doubt, walk away.

Graham

 

Hello Goosemanoose,
I am located in Rayleigh and not far off your route between London and Maldon.
If you are interested, then you can pop over and I will show you everything you need to look for -using my car. I can jack it up and we can get under!!
Mine is a 2003 and has a different engine and gearbox but the main areas to focus on are body and chassis.
These cars always look fantastic but even the low milers have an uncanny ability to hide issues underneath !
If you are interested in my offer then please email me privately.

 

Hi again,
Forums like this (and it is the best on the internet by a country mile) are, by nature, places where like-minded people get together to discuss the issues they have with their cars. It's easy to get the impression that you will spend more time underneath the car than in it.

While that may be true recently as a result of covid giving lots of time for preventative maintenance and general fettling, IMO the majority of us feel that the pleasure of owning and driving one of these superb cars completely outweighs the cost of ownership.


As PB and the good doc advise, the dealership is best avoided except, possibly, as a source of some parts. Most now have little or no interest in cars of this vintage anyway.

To also echo GGG's comments, look for service history (the more the better), and do bite PKWise's hand off over his offer.

Good luck!

 

I have a 2002 XKR myself and love it. I had my tensioner changed as the first action. I’ve also upgraded all front suspension elements (65,000 miles). Other then yearly maintenance it has been trouble free. (I did need to “clean” front wheel sensors due to a faulty notice but the fix was simple). I tend to be a DIY guy which I feel essential with these cars. I noticed all your wheels have curb rash on the trim rings but they are replaceable but expensive. From the listing it looks beautiful inside and out. I did notice your car comes with the 3-gage set up - mine has the. GPS and wish I had the Ganges. Good luck with the purchase and let us know how it goes.

 

Angus!

The Photo Gallery of the XKR shows a very nice Coupe...The body looks great, the Color is great, the Wheels are worth around $5,000.00 and the overall appearance is excellent.....I have no idea how much it is Selling for, but an XKR such as that would sell for $8,500.00 to $15,000.00 here in the Houston area...The only thing that I would be concerned about is that it is not a 2003 or above! It's a 4 Liter not a 4.2....but if it has been well taken care of, it could be a super Buy! As I said, the Wheels are 20" BBS Montreal's and I Love'em! From what I have learned from your English Buddys here on the Forum....You better check it out for RUST! If all this is good.....BUY the Darn thing, Man!

Billy Clyde @ Cinco Ranch (Houston)

2005 XKR Coupe -- Onyx and Ivory 20" BBS "Montreal" Wheels