XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006
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Captive nut has escaped!

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  #1  
Old 03-12-2018, 09:49 AM
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Default Captive nut has escaped!

I was stripping down the front suspension on my 2002 XKR and I had to remove the cruciform bracing to allow me to retract the bolt from the lower wishbone bush.

The first 3 bolts removed no problem but on the last one the captive nut came detached from the chassis leaving the bolt spinning spinning freely with no way to undo. I cut the head off the bolt to remove the bracing (see Picture)





I’m now left with a major headache for reassembly. As far as I can see there is no way to get to the back of the chassis section to reach the offending nut – so the only option I can see is to remove the bracket, cut out the section where the bolt has broken free and have someone weld in a new section complete with a new captive nut. Does anyone have any alternative solutions?

Also to remove the bracket can I just support the crossbeam from below or will I need an engine support beam?

Thanks


 

Last edited by GGG; 03-12-2018 at 02:52 PM. Reason: Font and spacing
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Old 03-12-2018, 11:06 AM
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Sometimes if you can drill or slot a hole in the member to access the nut on the backside you can install a nut with a magnet or such when reinstalling the bolt. should be able to pound the cut bolt up. Hole shouldn't affect the strength of the member, but should be sealed. Good luck. Or as you said weld in a new nut.
 
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Old 03-12-2018, 11:57 AM
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If you have a mig welder, drill a quarter inch hole on either side of the bolt close to the hole. Clean the area as best you can and then plug weld back to the edges of the nut. The heat during welding might also help with loosening the remains of the bolt.

Good luck!
 
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Old 03-12-2018, 01:54 PM
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Search for threads from "RaceDiagnostics" he has documented and completed more repairers of this type than anybody else.
 
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Old 03-12-2018, 03:02 PM
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Yes, I had this problem, I ended up cutting out 1 inch square sections to get rid of the loose captive nuts then welded in new ones.

The problem is that Jag used very long (relatively) bolts that corrode above the captive nut, but only weakly welded the captive nut to the chassis member. Thus they easily break free.

The bracket is there to stabilise the the long subframe bolt, so if you temporarily support the engine from below, you can remove the bolts and bracket then replace the subframe bolt while doing the repair.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...heared-156575/
 

Last edited by RaceDiagnostics; 03-12-2018 at 03:21 PM.
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  #6  
Old 03-12-2018, 04:28 PM
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Thanks for the replies fellas.

I do have a Mig welder, so I'll give the plug welding a go first - because that looks like something I can attempt myself.

If that fails I'll need to get someone in to cut and patch as RaceDiagnostics method, which would be way above my capabilities- does anyone know any decent mobile welders in the Glasgow (U.K) area?

I'll post back how I get on.
 
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Old 03-13-2018, 02:49 PM
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Default I Hate this car.

So this evening i set about removing the bracket to try and refix the nut.


The Long bolt through the subframe had seized to the inner metal part of the subframe bush, this then rotated completely destroying the bush and stripping the thread on the bolt.


I've just checked the workshop manual and it now seems I'm going to have to remove the front subframe to get a new bush pressed in - this car gives me a world of pain!


So for the simple task of having to remove one poxy bolt to get access to remove another one I'm now going to be in for hundreds of ££.


I really hate this car I think if I ever get her back together she's getting driven straight off a cliff!!!
 
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:05 PM
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This is why they made Guinness.
 
  #9  
Old 03-14-2018, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by johns427
This is why they made Guinness.
I think I need something a bit stronger!

Can anyone tell me where the lifting eyes for supporting the front of the engine (4.2 supercharged) are? I can't find them, there is a couple of female threaded holes about 1/2" in diameter - should something be fixed in them?
 
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Old 03-14-2018, 04:09 AM
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I am sorry to say that things are only likely to get worse for you.

I had exactly the same problem.

The bolt ripped out the centre of the bush, so the subframe had to be removed.







The V mounts also fell apart at that time.




Then once the subframe was off I was able to see the full horror of the chassis leg rust.



I attached my engine support this way.





I also hate this ****ing car!

The **** X100 quality and Scottish weather just don't work together.
 

Last edited by RaceDiagnostics; 03-14-2018 at 04:11 AM.
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  #11  
Old 03-14-2018, 05:38 AM
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Cheers RD it's good to get a preview of the horror that awaits me this weekend!


It's actually making me feel better that someone else has been throught the same Sh** I'm going through ! Does that mean I'm a bad person?


yep - What kind of idiot buys an Old Jag in Scotland? especially convertible one's where we spend our time dreaming of the one sunny day a year we can get the top down, only to find we're busy doing something else that day! We must be masochists.

Did you do all the welding yourself?
 
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:18 AM
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Back in 2013 when I did this work I was a welding novice so got a mobile guy in to do the welding. However since then I have had to do a lot more welding and am no longer a novice and have had to weld up a lot worse on my 450SL, but then that's nearly 40 years old.

Depending on how much time/money you have got in this car and what is still likely to go wrong, I would consider patching it up and moving it on or scrapping/parting it out.

Other stuff that is likely rotted out are

Floor pans
Seat belt anchors
Rear chassis rails
Spare wheel well where the bracket is welded on the underside.
Bottom of rear quarter panels.

One by one these things are all likely to come and bite you.
 
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  #13  
Old 03-14-2018, 06:54 AM
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I've been working through from back to front so I'm at the last end of the issues, so I've already got way more money in this car than it'll ever be worth, but it's fairly sorted now, certainly not a scrapper. so far the work that has been undertaken is:


Complete rebuild rear suspension - including replacing rear subframe which was holed with a rust free one from California.


Welding to rear Chassis Rails (the common problem)


New captive nut welded to rear subframe mounting.


Cut out and replace lower sections both rear quarter panels.


Cut out and replace both rear arches (inner & Outer)


Cut out and replace rear inner and outer sills.


Thankfully the boot floor, floor pans and seatbelt anchors are all sound (floorpan was welded by a previous owner at some point).


The spannering I can do myself, welding I used a mobile guy (from edinburgh IIRC) for the chassis and a car restoration specialist place for the sills, arches etc - the latter was eyewateringly expensive!


These cars are definatley a labour of love and certainly not an investment!


Sorting the front suspension was the last job on my list!! So I'll finish it properly & the car will be a pretty sorted example.


I had planned to keep the car forever but may move her on on when finished though - I'd liken my relationship with this car to an abusive relationship with a really hot woman, where no matter how bad she treats you you overlook it, because she's hot! Eventually there comes a point where the hotness isn't enough and you think F*** this and leave - I'm about at this point!
 
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  #14  
Old 03-14-2018, 10:37 AM
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OK, good luck with it all, I had to go to a Jag garage to get the new bush pushed in as its an odd size. £100 kick in the nuts for that 5 minute job.
 
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Old 03-14-2018, 11:29 AM
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Cheers, I'll have to go to Jag as well - tried the Local specialist indy & they dont have the tool.


I'll post on here with whatever horrors I find when I get the subframe removed.


Thanks for your help & informative posts - it was your rear suspension rebuild thread that encouraged me to do my own - That was the start of it, so I guess this is all your fault
 
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Old 03-14-2018, 03:20 PM
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Did you try the Jag indi in Paisley, they may have the tool or be able to borrow it from the dealer as the guy who owns the place used to work in the Glasgow Jag dealers.
 
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