Mounting rear hub carriers - best practice
#1
Mounting rear hub carriers - best practice
In the long journey of rebuilding the rear end of my Xkr coupe, now "only" the hub carriers, wheel bearings and the brakes are still to be fitted. Everything else is in place now. I also have done a lot of work in the engine compartment, replacing all coolant hoses, replacing bearings in the supercharger and a lot more. The engine I started up a few days ago after 17 months and it ran as smooth as ever! :-) But that's a different story. Now the focus is at the rear end of the car
I cannot figure out how to get the hub carriers back properly. I have both read the workshop manual and a variety of forum threads, as well as youtube videos showing ho to do it but for older Jaguar IRS:es like the E-type. On youtube there are no videos to be found about this step for the gen II IRS like the ones for the X100.
Never having done this before, but didn't expect to run into problems with re-fitting the carriers.
Space becomes to tight if I fit adjustable spacers at both ends of the carrier. It will fit if I use a spacer at one side only. But then still I need to drive the carrier in place with a rubber hammer. If I fit a spacer at each side there is not a chance to get the carrier in place. What is the best practice here? Fit the spacers on each side of the tube that goes through the carrier before placing the carrier in the "fork", or first getting the carrier in place in the "fork" and tapping in the spacers afterwards? I am using the thinnest spacers available from Sng Barratt, 3.905 mm
If I fit a spacer at each end, there is so little tube to stick to for both of them so one of them will likely fall off before I manage to get the carrier in place to try to hammer it inside the "fork"
I cannot figure out how to get the hub carriers back properly. I have both read the workshop manual and a variety of forum threads, as well as youtube videos showing ho to do it but for older Jaguar IRS:es like the E-type. On youtube there are no videos to be found about this step for the gen II IRS like the ones for the X100.
Never having done this before, but didn't expect to run into problems with re-fitting the carriers.
Space becomes to tight if I fit adjustable spacers at both ends of the carrier. It will fit if I use a spacer at one side only. But then still I need to drive the carrier in place with a rubber hammer. If I fit a spacer at each side there is not a chance to get the carrier in place. What is the best practice here? Fit the spacers on each side of the tube that goes through the carrier before placing the carrier in the "fork", or first getting the carrier in place in the "fork" and tapping in the spacers afterwards? I am using the thinnest spacers available from Sng Barratt, 3.905 mm
If I fit a spacer at each end, there is so little tube to stick to for both of them so one of them will likely fall off before I manage to get the carrier in place to try to hammer it inside the "fork"
#3
#4
#5
Back in the 1970s I made up some 'dummy' shafts for the XJ sedans and the XJS hubs to hold the bearings and spacers in the lower fulcrum when fitting the assy into the lower control arm
The 'dummy' shaft should have the ends FLUSH with the outer bearings/seals so it will fit in the lower arm.
When the XJ40 was introduced, later models had an 'eccentric' lower fulcrum bolt/arm for 'toe in/out' adjustment.(1993/94MY)
The outer seals and spacers should be very close to the correct width for fitting in the lower arm.
A little 'persuasion' might be required to get all the parts fitted and you might even 'bevel' the lower arm edge a little to get the assy started.
Once the hub is in place I just 'tap' the fulcrum bolt into the hole to displace the 'dummy' shaft as the two change places.
Install the washer/nut and torque.
The 'dummy' shaft should have the ends FLUSH with the outer bearings/seals so it will fit in the lower arm.
When the XJ40 was introduced, later models had an 'eccentric' lower fulcrum bolt/arm for 'toe in/out' adjustment.(1993/94MY)
The outer seals and spacers should be very close to the correct width for fitting in the lower arm.
A little 'persuasion' might be required to get all the parts fitted and you might even 'bevel' the lower arm edge a little to get the assy started.
Once the hub is in place I just 'tap' the fulcrum bolt into the hole to displace the 'dummy' shaft as the two change places.
Install the washer/nut and torque.
#6
Never had this apart myself but could it be a sizing or fit issue with any of the parts, i.e. are the bearing races properly seated; is the pivot pin sleeve the correct length.These may rely on how the spacer sits, is it on the back of the taper bearing or against the end of the sleeve?
Good luck
Good luck
#7
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+1
I haven't done this either, but it makes sense if you've replaced the bearings. The JTIS procedure includes a section on checking/setting the bearing preload before putting the carrier back into the lower arm.
It looks like this would be useful for ensuring the bearing outers are properly seated, and hence how far proud the shims/spacers sit on the pivot tube.
Doc. attached here if you haven't encountered it:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1772943
I haven't done this either, but it makes sense if you've replaced the bearings. The JTIS procedure includes a section on checking/setting the bearing preload before putting the carrier back into the lower arm.
It looks like this would be useful for ensuring the bearing outers are properly seated, and hence how far proud the shims/spacers sit on the pivot tube.
Doc. attached here if you haven't encountered it:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1772943
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#8
#9
Today I was back at the mission. Found out the issue, I think. I changed to bearings from British Parts, the bearings themselves are of unknown brand to me. They seem to be slightly thicker compared to the Timken bearings that I replaced. I found the old Timken items and mounted them back on. Spot on! So now I will order a set of Timken bearings instead
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