Hi Folks. Been a while since I posted here. We have a worn out rear shock on a 96 XJ6 4.0. Clunking from the top of the passenger rear shock area. I cannot see what's clunking, But I can feel in most if I touch the bottom of the shock when bouncing the car. I do not think the car has auto leveling. So I'm looking at a set of these shocks from RockAuto:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1178434&jsn=16

I read that I should replace the bushings as well? Don't the new shocks come with bushings? Are they perhaps referring to the coil spring seats/insulators? What else besides the shocks should I replace? Never had to do these before, so I'm looking for advise.

Thanks!!

Bobby

 

I just put new B4s in mine and they work great. They come with all the bushings except the coil spring seats.

There is no “while you’re in there” because you’re just taking the springs and shock out of the IRS assembly.

 

Hi Bobby,

As xalty says, the new Bilsteins come with all the bushings you need except the large yellow foam rubber "spring isolator" bushings, or "donuts," which are Part 5 in the diagram below:




The part number for the spring isolators is MMD3565AA and you need one on each side. I believe Rock Auto carries them, but also check with our forum sponsors. You can view all the part numbers at the link below:

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks so much! Question... We haven't been in there to look yet, but is is possible for the hole in the upper cup (#6) to get wallered out?

Bobby

 

Hi Bobby,

Yes it is possible for the center hole in the upper mounting cup to be worn by the shock shaft and spacer sleeve (#12) repeatedly striking it if the car is driven for too long with perished bushings. However, this is not usually a problem, because when you replace the bushings, the new ones will help hold the shock shaft & spacer sleeve centered in the mounting plate hole. Hopefully you won't have any problems.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thank You!

 

Will replacing the rear spring isolators throw off the rear camber?

Thanks,

Bobby

 

No, and it should help restore the proper ride height.

Cheers,

Don

 

I’m also planning to do springs and shocks. What will your method be? I was thinking to follow the manual and undo the hub fulcrum bolt and swing the hub out of the way. Others have lowered the subframe.

what’s your plan??

 

Hi Scaphan, Embarrassingly we don't have a manual, and I'm affraid we don't have a plan yet either, other than checking through these forums and youtube for ideas in advance of starting the job. We're still deep into the front end right now and probably won't start on the rear shocks for a month or two. Please keep us posted on how your job goes. I'd be interested in the methods you end up using.

Bobby

 

Okay fair enough! I have a PDF of the workshop manual if you need it. Here is the method I intend to follow but I can’t find a YouTube of it. Might make one myself!

 

Hi Bobby,

You can download the X300 Workshop Manual free from this forum at the link below:

Jaguar X300 Workshop Manual

This and many other helpful Jaguar documents are available in the X300 'How To' Quick Links on the home page of this X300 forum.

Cheers,

Don

 

Just touching back on this subject... We did end up moving the hub to the side to remove the springs. We disconnected the abs sensors under the back seat and pulled them free of the chassis since the sensors themselves would not budge and we didn't want to force them. One note: We did not take notice of the position of the lower bolts for the hubs before removing them. Apparently it has an offset head so it can be used to adjust the toe (I think) for that wheel. Luckily the bolt head left an oblong impression where it sat previously, so I think each bolt went back to the original position. But we'll be checking that again when we next do an alignment on the car.

Bobby

 

thanks for the update. Any pictures?? Just ordered my parts and waiting for warmer weather!!

 

No pictures. Sorry. A couple hints though. We rented a set of spring compressors from a local auto parts store. They were required. The type that mount on the outside of the spring with single hooks. We had great difficulty with the lower shock bolt on one side. It was rusted in place in the lower shock and even with a sledge and a forked pry bar on the head of the bolt we could not get it to move out. We then noticed a hole at the end on the lower control arm through which I could feel the bolt with my finger tips (after the hub was moved). It was very badly rusted. We dowsed it with liquid wrench. Along with the threaded end of the bolt. More sledge hammering got the bolt to start moving and we kept moving it back and forth till the threaded part had sunk into the shock. Then it stopped again. Probably because the bolt end was mushroomed at the point. I had the nut on the end at first, but it had stripped out earlier in the process. In the end I had to drill out the bolt at the threaded end inside the shock and eventually was able to push what remained through. I was surprised as it only took about 20 minutes to drill out with a Ryobi 18V drill and a couple bit sizes. Got a replacement nut and bolt on ebay. Also there is/was a hole about an inch around halfway up the control arm that was perfect for getting extra leverage moving the control are down using a steel jack handle we had lying around. It took two of us to wrestle the shocks and springs out and back in. I suggest having a selection of large flat blade screwdrivers and pry bars within reach. Also some large plastic wire ties to hold the springs to the upper mount plate during re install. They don't want to stay together when trying to align the upper tray to the chassis studs. Some of the upper plate studs stayed in the chassis and some came out with the nuts. The studs that stayed in the chassis were key to getting the plate re aligned properly during re assembly. I'll post anything else I can think of if more comes to me. Hope this helps.

Bobby

 

Thank you very much for the detailed help. Sounds like you had some difficulties!

why do you think most people lower the subframe rather than move the hub? Seems like the hub is easier? If you had to do it again would you try the subframe method or stick to the hub method?

thanks for the feedback!

 

you can just pry on the a-frame, no spring compressor required but you can use it if it helps you line stuff up.