I have a seen a 94 XJS 4.0L Coupe for sale with 122K Miles, it looks in good shape and the price is $9K.... what is the Experts advice, this will be a first XJS for me.
Cheers

 

I have 127k and mine is near mint, it needed a mostly new interior which I addressed, and some brake and electrical work but I paid about 9k and I can drive it every day if I want. Just depends on how well it’s been maintained.

 

As far as the engine, transmission, and differential go, 122k miles is no big deal.....IF the car has been well cared for. Regular fluid changes and so forth.

It may well need suspension bushings, shocks, ball joints and the like at that mileage. Proof of recent work in these areas would be a 'plus'.

Cheers
DD

 

$9k sounds high for 122k unless there is good documentation that shows great maintenance and repair of most common failures. Otherwise expect a good deal of effort to get it back to good driving shape. I'm thinking $6-7k otherwise.

 

I agree that 122K is no problem for the drive train.
I'd plan on changing all the fluids, installing new bushings, shocks, etc.
If the body and interior are good I'd say go for it.
PS - That advice applies if you do your own work. If you don't you might want to look elsewhere.

 

I just mentioned this in another topic; but a higher mileage car can be infinitely better in all aspects than a low mileage car. Specially if the previous owner is a guy like a us in this forum.

In my opinion, function should ALWAYS follow form. Not the other way around. If you find a high mileage car that aesthetically looks like a 5k mile car, and also find a 10k mile car that looks like a 200k mile car, go with the first and run from the latter. If a guy is spending money on every minute cosmetic detail, like getting new bezels, new headlamps, new leather, etc etc etc, you can almost be assured that he is doing the same mechanically. I know because I am that guy.

9k seems on the low end, depending on the condition of the car….. These cars are going up and up, and unless you somehow manage to get your hands on a total basket case, or some poor soul who is desperate, I don’t think you will find a better price.

Definitions of a “basket case” may differ from man to man.

 

I own a 1994 4.0, and it my daily driver. Its over 203k now, but this is a pic from a post I made earlier this year. Its the deal of the century. I’m currently gearing up for a complete front end suspension rebuild and that’s about as bad as it gets with high mileage. My car also smokes on every other start up, since valve stem seals tend to leak on the 4.0L. Dont be afraid if it puffs a bit when you start er up. It should go away once warm though.

 

And she’s probably barely broken in.


IMO, the worst thing to do in these these cars is a)cosmetic/body work b)a/c blowers or evaporator.

The whole dash needs to come of for B

 

Agree totally with all of the above. 94 facelift cars have improvements over previous models, but essentially a "drive it, don't park it" car.
My 92/93 was a daily driver for years (until retirement, mine not its). Maintenance is the key. It got mine to 210L+. $9K is current market value too.

 

Mechanical things are reasonably easy and straightforward to repair, if you have to repair or replace interior or some body parts that can get expensive in a hurry. I would always buy a car with a perfect interior and bad engine over the reverse.

As always, buy the best car you can afford definitely applies here.

 

I still think it is overpriced

https://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto...343589776.html

 

Thanks lads for all the advice and valuable information… I am on the fence right now, as the owner is stating he does not have all the service records, but is assuring me work and services have been done on a regular basis. I will have another closer inspection this weekend and make the call then… my heart says go for it, but my head says to confirm it’s a well maintained cat.

 

That’s pretty impressive… how long did the engine mounts and bushings last… replacement interval.

 

Whats the level of difficulty to replace the bushings, engine mounts etc…

 

Bushings tend to last about 100k miles or 10-20yrs. Cars in LA sell for less, but being in Desmoines local choices are less available

 

Other than the lower control arm bushings, which are an absolute bear to replace, the difficulty level isn't very high for the other parts. Good thing is that the lower control arm bushings last pretty damn long.

The rubber can be replaced by you in a driveway, or a garage would be even better. One at a time, and after a few weeks, you should be good to go.

If the previous owner knows when its been last replaced, that would be great, if not, I wouldn't walk away over it. Part of making the car yours is replacing these parts on your own. It can be very rewarding, and you'll learn lots more about the car that way as well!

I bought my car sight unseen. AC didn't work. Turns out the condenser was shot. Did it myself. Then over the months, and years, I've replaced as much of the old rubber (and hoses) as I can. It's pretty much all done. Along the way there have been some oxygen sensors, coolant temp sensors and other such things that go bad, as they would on any car. Parts aren't terribly hard to find, and because its a 6 and not a 12, there's plenty of access....most of the time. Its an ideal car to work on.