How to: overhaul nonavailable fuel lines
#1
05-31-2014, 05:07 AM
How to: overhaul nonavailable fuel lines
Hi there!
Due to the age of our beauties, many parts aren't available anymore. Obviously spares are now of the same age and have the same issues...
I stood infront of a "challenge" (for me) regarding the fuel pipe from the fuel cooler to the first pressure regulator. This (part number EAC7938) isn't available from Jag. V12performance offer a refurbished one, but I personally think, it can be sorted for less - and I've proven right!
My hose had been bodged and was brittle. A little movement caused the pipes to decintergrate...
First step is to remove the pipes and the sleeves. I simply got a hacksaw on them and cut sideways through it... After that carefully cut the hose off so you get the ribbed connector:
After getting those ends sorted, you need to replace the hoses and clamp them on. I used some standard high temperature (as the V12 is a tad hot) fuel lines. They cost about €8/meter and all I needed was about 20 cm so if I work it down, the costs are about €1,70 for the length I need...
I'm using 10 mm diameter on both sides. Factory uses 8 mm on the side from the fuel cooler and 10 mm on the side to the regulator. As there is no real reason to use different sizes, I used - as said - 10 mm on both ends. The matching sleeves cost me ~€0.30/piece. So about €2.30 for the entire material (if I go by the price for the length I needed).
Okay, so, put the sleeve over the end of the hose and press (by hand!) the hose incl. sleeve over the ribbed section of the pipe. That on both ends.
Do a drawing though, that you don't forget which hose has which length:
As the fuel pipes will have about 3-3.5 Bar in them, it is recommendable to do a pressure test before you fit it. As said, I forced the pipes in by hand. So you would expect a leak. Nope, with 7 Bar pressure inside there was no issue with any leakages...
Then install again:
So instead of buying a new overhauled pipe, I paid a total of €2.30 for a fuel replacement... No extra costs required. Now I fancy doing the rest of the pipes.
I hope this can help some people...! Please do me a favor: check your hoses! A brittle hose will crack and the result: it can easily cause an engine fire!
Have fun!
Damien
Due to the age of our beauties, many parts aren't available anymore. Obviously spares are now of the same age and have the same issues...
I stood infront of a "challenge" (for me) regarding the fuel pipe from the fuel cooler to the first pressure regulator. This (part number EAC7938) isn't available from Jag. V12performance offer a refurbished one, but I personally think, it can be sorted for less - and I've proven right!
My hose had been bodged and was brittle. A little movement caused the pipes to decintergrate...
First step is to remove the pipes and the sleeves. I simply got a hacksaw on them and cut sideways through it... After that carefully cut the hose off so you get the ribbed connector:
After getting those ends sorted, you need to replace the hoses and clamp them on. I used some standard high temperature (as the V12 is a tad hot
) fuel lines. They cost about €8/meter and all I needed was about 20 cm so if I work it down, the costs are about €1,70 for the length I need... I'm using 10 mm diameter on both sides. Factory uses 8 mm on the side from the fuel cooler and 10 mm on the side to the regulator. As there is no real reason to use different sizes, I used - as said - 10 mm on both ends. The matching sleeves cost me ~€0.30/piece. So about €2.30 for the entire material (if I go by the price for the length I needed).
Okay, so, put the sleeve over the end of the hose and press (by hand!) the hose incl. sleeve over the ribbed section of the pipe. That on both ends.
Do a drawing though, that you don't forget which hose has which length:
As the fuel pipes will have about 3-3.5 Bar in them, it is recommendable to do a pressure test before you fit it. As said, I forced the pipes in by hand. So you would expect a leak. Nope, with 7 Bar pressure inside there was no issue with any leakages...
Then install again:
So instead of buying a new overhauled pipe, I paid a total of €2.30 for a fuel replacement... No extra costs required. Now I fancy doing the rest of the pipes.
I hope this can help some people...! Please do me a favor: check your hoses! A brittle hose will crack and the result: it can easily cause an engine fire!
Have fun!
Damien
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#2
05-31-2014, 08:59 AM
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Daim (05-31-2014)
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05-31-2014, 09:04 AM
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05-31-2014, 09:05 AM
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#6
05-31-2014, 09:07 AM
#7
05-31-2014, 10:17 AM
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#9
05-31-2014, 10:21 AM
Nope, they clamp like that. If they were high pressure (that is here exceeding 5 bar) then yes, they would need clamping. But otherwise no. The original ones aren't clamped either. Thay are pushed on and done. What secures the pipe is the tension of the rubber on the ribbed pipe section. The sleeves are only t stop the hose widening/expanding.
As said, 7 Bar was pumped into the hose and no leaks at all. Either under water nor anywhere else.
As said, 7 Bar was pumped into the hose and no leaks at all. Either under water nor anywhere else.
Last edited by Daim; 06-01-2014 at 04:16 AM.
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mlp442009 (06-01-2014)
#11
06-06-2014, 02:11 PM
Did a few more pipes today. Now my engine bay only needs new water hoses (ordered) and the hoses to the injectors (will be done when sufficient funding for a new injector harness has been secured ). Otherwise all important rubbers have been changed...
Pressure regulator to rail hose:
Rail to regulator hose:
Pressure tested again to 7 bar... After that pressurized with fuel pump (system bleeding followed by a pressure test). No leaks, no nothing. Happy little me!
). Otherwise all important rubbers have been changed... Pressure regulator to rail hose:
Rail to regulator hose:
Pressure tested again to 7 bar... After that pressurized with fuel pump (system bleeding followed by a pressure test). No leaks, no nothing. Happy little me!
The following 3 users liked this post by Daim:
#12
05-31-2017, 04:40 AM
Veteran Member
i went about it in a slightly different way in as much as I wanted to save the caps. I cut off the hose close to the end and burnt the hoses off, I then cleaned and re-plated the metal parts in a newly purchased zinc plating kit and am quite pleased with the results
Last edited by rgp; 06-01-2017 at 03:57 AM.
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xjsv12 (05-31-2017)
#13
06-02-2017, 03:49 AM
Senior Member
Hi there!
Due to the age of our beauties, many parts aren't available anymore. Obviously spares are now of the same age and have the same issues...
I stood infront of a "challenge" (for me) regarding the fuel pipe from the fuel cooler to the first pressure regulator. This (part number EAC7938) isn't available from Jag. V12performance offer a refurbished one, but I personally think, it can be sorted for less - and I've proven right!
My hose had been bodged and was brittle. A little movement caused the pipes to decintergrate...
First step is to remove the pipes and the sleeves. I simply got a hacksaw on them and cut sideways through it... After that carefully cut the hose off so you get the ribbed connector:
After getting those ends sorted, you need to replace the hoses and clamp them on. I used some standard high temperature (as the V12 is a tad hot) fuel lines. They cost about €8/meter and all I needed was about 20 cm so if I work it down, the costs are about €1,70 for the length I need...
I'm using 10 mm diameter on both sides. Factory uses 8 mm on the side from the fuel cooler and 10 mm on the side to the regulator. As there is no real reason to use different sizes, I used - as said - 10 mm on both ends. The matching sleeves cost me ~€0.30/piece. So about €2.30 for the entire material (if I go by the price for the length I needed).
Okay, so, put the sleeve over the end of the hose and press (by hand!) the hose incl. sleeve over the ribbed section of the pipe. That on both ends.
Do a drawing though, that you don't forget which hose has which length:
As the fuel pipes will have about 3-3.5 Bar in them, it is recommendable to do a pressure test before you fit it. As said, I forced the pipes in by hand. So you would expect a leak. Nope, with 7 Bar pressure inside there was no issue with any leakages...
Then install again:
So instead of buying a new overhauled pipe, I paid a total of €2.30 for a fuel replacement... No extra costs required. Now I fancy doing the rest of the pipes.
I hope this can help some people...! Please do me a favor: check your hoses! A brittle hose will crack and the result: it can easily cause an engine fire!
Have fun!
Damien
Due to the age of our beauties, many parts aren't available anymore. Obviously spares are now of the same age and have the same issues...
I stood infront of a "challenge" (for me) regarding the fuel pipe from the fuel cooler to the first pressure regulator. This (part number EAC7938) isn't available from Jag. V12performance offer a refurbished one, but I personally think, it can be sorted for less - and I've proven right!
My hose had been bodged and was brittle. A little movement caused the pipes to decintergrate...
First step is to remove the pipes and the sleeves. I simply got a hacksaw on them and cut sideways through it... After that carefully cut the hose off so you get the ribbed connector:
After getting those ends sorted, you need to replace the hoses and clamp them on. I used some standard high temperature (as the V12 is a tad hot
) fuel lines. They cost about €8/meter and all I needed was about 20 cm so if I work it down, the costs are about €1,70 for the length I need... I'm using 10 mm diameter on both sides. Factory uses 8 mm on the side from the fuel cooler and 10 mm on the side to the regulator. As there is no real reason to use different sizes, I used - as said - 10 mm on both ends. The matching sleeves cost me ~€0.30/piece. So about €2.30 for the entire material (if I go by the price for the length I needed).
Okay, so, put the sleeve over the end of the hose and press (by hand!) the hose incl. sleeve over the ribbed section of the pipe. That on both ends.
Do a drawing though, that you don't forget which hose has which length:
As the fuel pipes will have about 3-3.5 Bar in them, it is recommendable to do a pressure test before you fit it. As said, I forced the pipes in by hand. So you would expect a leak. Nope, with 7 Bar pressure inside there was no issue with any leakages...
Then install again:
So instead of buying a new overhauled pipe, I paid a total of €2.30 for a fuel replacement... No extra costs required. Now I fancy doing the rest of the pipes.
I hope this can help some people...! Please do me a favor: check your hoses! A brittle hose will crack and the result: it can easily cause an engine fire!
Have fun!
Damien
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