Edit: Title says left, meant to type (right)

Does anyone know of there is a physical difference between these two items? My XKR has the B&W Sound, but I don't need the speaker - I can remove the existing speaker and place it into the new trim piece. So, I only need the plastic trim piece.

Does one of these include the opening for the speaker and the other does not? I don't get it.

Thanks to anyone who can help.



On a side note, I had my windows re-tinted. The tint company charged over $500. They broke this part and did not fix the door panel correctly. They didn't tell me about it, but stuck it back together enough to hold for me to pick up the car. I didn't notice until the mirror cover fell off a few weeks later (since I don't use the passenger door much), and now they won't take responsibility. So, I'm stuck with the cost to fix this too. 😡😡😤🤬

 

The difference between versions of these parts is a silver/chrome lining around a buzzer/speaker vs all plastic black part.

I believe you need a silver.

This part is crazy expensive (no idea why). I have this part left (for both right and left side - used, but not broken). But I'm in Europe. If you don't find anything - let me know - maybe we can make it.

 

Thanks. I went ahead and bought it from a dealer in TN. I figured it would be cool to get it from you, but the shipping might be ridiculous and I know customs is not exactly friendly these days coming into the US, so who knows how long I would have to wait.

I did wonder, however if you (or someone) could give me some guidance on this. Along with the broken mirror cover, it looks like they did not place the door panel back correctly. I hate dealing with interior panels - clips and things always seem to come loose or break. I don't want to tweak this the wrong way and break anything.

How can I get this door panel back into its proper place, where to I need to push, pull, lift, etc...?

Thanks.

 

There's a small chance you can push up on the door panel enough to get it to pop over the edge of the door frame. Otherwise, you'll have to remove any screws that hold the panel, possibly pull out on pins/clips that hold the lower portion of the panel tight to the door and then push it up enough to get it over the door frame. If you get one of the "panel popper" tools that's designed to get the clips to release without breaking, you can usually get them to release. But I've also seen panels that once the holding screws are removed, there's no removeable clip that holds the panel on. It just pushes up and comes off. Those retainers are "L" shaped and fit into slots in the door.

 

Looking at a picture - it does not fit properly now. Well - you can put it correct, but I definitely cannot describe this process over a forum post.

You will need a metal tool - special screwdriver for clips (sorry for my poor English vocabulary). Using it - you can only press clips into a door panel. As it is more from this side.

 

Best to remove the panel as described in the service manual (see stickies where you can download it if needed). I have a 4.2L but believe the procedure is the same or at least similar.

Most likely is whomever removed the panel before, did not remove the wedge clips from the panel (they usual stay in the panel when it is removed) and place them on the metal door rail (which you can see in your picture) before mounting the panel. There are two guide pins on the panel that align with holes in the door and very hard to lift the panel to match the guide pins up AND slip the clips on the door rail with them on the panel at the same time which is why your panel is not on correctly.

Easy fix, If I can then you can do this.
- Remove the mirror inner cover carefully but yours is already broken.
- Remove 3 torx screws, 2 under door handle, 1 under a small plastic cover at top back of door panel. T30 I think.
- Use a plastic panel pry bar, start at bottom rear of the door and pop the panel push clips out gently as you work your way around the the bottom, front and back of the panel. The push clips are a couple inches in from the panel and about 9 of them. If you break one, easy to find equivalent ones at NAPA or another good parts store. Just take one with you to match up to a replacement. There are a bazillion types and sizes of panel clips.
- Lift the panel off pulling the panel bottom away from the door as you lift. There are one or two electrical connections to remove as well as the Bowden cable for the interior door handle.
- Pry out the top clips that are stuck in the panel and transfer them to the top rail in the door. There are little notches in the rail that the clips slip over. 6 top clips total I think.
- Reconnect the electrical connections. Install the Bowden cable barrel in the door handle and the cable sheath has a groove that slips into a notch in the plastic part of the handle assembly.
- Align the panel with the top clip “wedges” with slots in the panel and press the panel on. The 2 guide pins should self-align when the top clips are pressed home.
- Press the side and bottom panel push clips in working from top to bottom. I give them a firm push with the heel of my hand.
-Reinstall screws and cover. Check door opens and all control buttons/lights work
- Reinstall the mirror inner cover.

Good luck.

 

Nice tint shop…

 

That’s incredibly expensive tint, surely they’ve enough profit to do the right thing and sort this for you. Unfortunately these mirror covers are very delicate and the tabs break frequently especially when not handled properly. Not certain why they’ve gone up 10 times the price I paid 5 years ago, but I’d reckon trim pieces are in short supply. Jaguar’s a small company and outsources most parts to small European suppliers. When I needed some bits Jaguar first scoured their dealers worldwide before going to their supplier and having the parts made for me, took a few months but the date code confirmed the parts were only a couple of weeks old! As for the door card, would be best to remove as described above and reinstall correctly.

 

I suspect as the model gets older, the parts become more scarce and the cost increases. It was a medium grade tint. They replaced the door windows, the side pillar windows and the rear hatch window. I thought it was reasonable, especially for custom-cut tint, as these do not have a pre-fit cut tint to apply. But, when you add the cost to repair the damage, yes, it is a bit expensive.

 

When I bought my 2014 the drivers side door card was not properly re-installed from the previous owner having the actuator replaced under warranty. Remove the door card enough to start the re-install from the top so in fits in tight toward the window. Push down on the top then work towards the bottom. Be very careful removing the speaker it is very easy to break the plastic fastener.

Sorry to hear about shop caused you problems. Always be careful, check everything over, and take pictures before service and after with the sales person. When my car was in to replace the supercharger isolator under warranty my car was returned to me with a bent actuator rod. When I was in to check on the work I asked to see the car and took pictures of the supercharger removed from the engine and on the work bench; the pictures showed the actuator rod straight and not bent. They replaced the entire supercharger; they had no defense.
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a minor tip. The clips were probably there since birth. Once you get them off, put some vaseline on the clip and the body. It will make the install much easier. That's probably why the tint shop failed. I struggled with mine but once I put the vaseline on, it slid on smoothly.