Is there any secret to removing the fuel pipes from the filter, or is it a case of brute force and ignorance? I have plenty of ignorance, but I am a bit short of brute force, especially lying on the garage floor with limited space under the car.

I had no problems getting the two nuts off and draining the fuel, but I can't move either of the pipes enough to extract them from the filter body.

I am in the middle of changing a bad fuel pump (whch should arrive tomorrow) but I want to change the filter as well, as I understand a clogged filter could cause the pump to fail.

Thanks,

 

It should be a matter of removing the fuel lines nuts from the line unless you have a different filter mounted. Can you get a picture?

 

IIRC the hoses are held to the body- you need to free them up so they can be pulled away-

 

Yes, I found where the rear pipe is held in place on the chassis, so I loosened that up. I also found that the missing ingredient from brute force and ignorance is lots of cursing. Job done.
Thanks for your input.

 

The old filter is an AC type GF-651 made in England, so I think I am correct in thinking it is original. It doesn't seem in bad shape though; I can blow through it quite easily, but after only 48K miles I wouldn't have thought it would be a problem. Still, a new one will be installed tomorrow. I must remember all three ingredients for this though.

The question remains as to what has gone wrong with the fuel pump. I will look into that when I have it removed.

 

This might help to check the power to it.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Electric fuel pump failure can often be attributed to a semi clogged fuel filter. Does make sense. Good Idea to change while awaiting your pump. Rich

 

Once the 16mm hex nuts are removed from the filter ends, you just need to 'TWIST' or SPIN the filter to break the 'O'rings loose.

bob gauff

 

I fighted approx 10hrs to remove fuel filter w/o cutting fuel line or destroying 16mm nut.
Engine size 16mm nut was seized very tight into filter 20mm outlet.
Fortunately fuel tank side nut did come off easily and I was able to remove filter harness w/filter from car body.
Loosening fuel line plastic holders & dropping fuel line I did have enough room to use hacksaw to cut filter off from end of filter side nut. After some careful dremeling of filter 20mm aluminum nut remains it was somewhat safe to heat it hot enough and finally got if off without real damage to fuel line.

 

I would use some anti-seize compound for re-installation.
Sounds like corrosion got to it.

bob gauff

 

Indeed, any suggestions of anti seize comp as it is aluminum / brass contact if I got it right?
GM style bubble flare o-ring sealing leaves threads exposed to external forces w/bad placement so I'm thinking to use silicone to seal groove between filter & 16mm nut after verify of non-leaking filter install.