XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

Valve cover inside shield ?

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Old 02-15-2018, 05:05 PM
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Default Valve cover inside shield ?

Any body know the reason for the splash / heat shield on the inside of the valve cover only between the aft 3 plug wells ?

It is technically very important to me .
 
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Old 02-15-2018, 09:50 PM
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That is the seperator for the crankcase ventilation.
 
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:34 AM
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There are pics of it removed in my cam-cover thread. As you'll note there, I don't recommend removal as there is no good way to re=attach. I ground it off of a cover that was damaged beyond repair...to see what's what, as it were.
 
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:44 AM
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Thanks Ric , I missed that one . I assume it can be negated with the external separator upgrade as mine was a mess and I'm sure caused the previous owner problems .
 
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:58 AM
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Thanks Aholbro1 , I will have to read your work later . Link below :

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...thread-163891/
 

Last edited by Lady Penelope; 02-16-2018 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 02-16-2018, 08:34 AM
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I would like to see if a quality separator catch can would replace it too. My powder coating guy would not do the VC since he would have to remove or risk getting blast media in it which would be BAD.

Most of the cheap ebay ones are just cans and I would want a real separator with baffles.
 
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Old 02-16-2018, 09:20 AM
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I've installed a catch can in my car. Catches tons of water in the winter time, and some oil in the summer months.

I am planning on replacing the gaskets on the camcover soon and am considering either soaking the camcover breather area with degreaser or just removing it altogether. I can't imagine it doesn't get caked up with grease based on what I've caught with my oil catch can. (I shoved in a stainless steel mesh scrubber inside the catch can to force the gas to condensate. It was pretty nasty with about 1 years worth of service)

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...engine-160018/
 
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Old 02-16-2018, 09:53 AM
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Thanks
 

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Old 02-21-2018, 03:25 PM
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I'm somewhat surprised that the powder coating company didn't have a way to deal with the baffle such as just masking it off when they sprayed the powder.

Regarding a catch can, the following is what I have fitted. As noted above, it catches a LOT of water, which is mixed with oil too. I usually check it every couple/three weeks. I let it go for a couple or so months one time and it was practically full.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...7/#post1708029

.
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by al_roethlisberger
I'm somewhat surprised that the powder coating company didn't have a way to deal with the baffle such as just masking it off when they sprayed the powder.

Regarding a catch can, the following is what I have fitted. As noted above, it catches a LOT of water, which is mixed with oil too. I usually check it every couple/three weeks. I let it go for a couple or so months one time and it was practically full.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...7/#post1708029

.

They said they could plug it and tape it before media blasting but could not guarantee it and that media would be bad for engine. We discussed and I decided not worth the risk.
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Ric in RVA
They said they could plug it and tape it before media blasting but could not guarantee it and that media would be bad for engine. We discussed and I decided not worth the risk.
I know I'm now sounding like we're searching for some very esoteric solutions .... but I would think there is specialized media that wouldn't prove a risk.

Not all blast media has to be some oxide, sand or glass.

For example, I've seen dry ice blasting which would obviously melt, and even media like walnut shells that I would think one could burn out and might not even really faze the engine if a few bits got ingested (not sure on that one, but maybe)?

And of course another option is chemical stripping.


...and if one has the catch can, I wonder if the baffle is really all that necessary anymore.

.
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 04:46 PM
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If you can get some bathtub caulk to stick and mask off the inlets and outlets and let them know it would be your responsibility to ensure that it's removed shifts responsibility away from the shop . I found a scientific paper on " clear " powder coating magnesium a few months ago as it is used in areostructures and has special problems for a clear outcome unlike other metals .
 

Last edited by Lady Penelope; 02-21-2018 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 02-21-2018, 07:06 PM
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Ric, find a new powder coater. It needn't be blasted. They need only run it through the "standard powder coater's stripper" bath....twice, probably, but that is all that's needed. And even if they blast it, more oil and stuff will come to the surface when it is heated so it'll still need an additional process, either re-blast or another trip through the bath. The magnesium alloy is more porous than not.
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 07:17 PM
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Can't find the paper but I did find this on the internet below :

The key being an alkaline cleaner and heated off gassing for a clear and not yellowed result .

Walnut or baking soda blast ?

I haven't done mine . Still in work for something wonderful as a elegant solution .
 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
X300 12726.pdf (1.18 MB, 331 views)

Last edited by Lady Penelope; 02-21-2018 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 02-22-2018, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by aholbro1
Ric, find a new powder coater. It needn't be blasted. They need only run it through the "standard powder coater's stripper" bath....twice, probably, but that is all that's needed. And even if they blast it, more oil and stuff will come to the surface when it is heated so it'll still need an additional process, either re-blast or another trip through the bath. The magnesium alloy is more porous than not.
Nah...my powder coater is meticulous. Mil Spec certified and does weapons and products for the military as well as custom bikes and cars. An absolute pro as well as a personal friend.

We had an honest conversation about that filter and the gunk that would get caught up in the mesh inside it during the stripper, as well as the issue of not getting any media out if it got in there and the inability to reattach said cover and I decided it wasn't worth it.

I think any powder coater that thinks they can pull it off without that discussion needs to be skipped.

I have some high temp silver that will be fine. But may go crinkle black...
 
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Old 02-26-2018, 04:10 PM
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I just sprayed my cover ,VHT ...




10 bucks of paint,10 bucks of wrap,pretty happy with the results..
 
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Old 02-26-2018, 04:40 PM
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Working on plaster molding the plastic surrounds after filling the dimples with some body filler to overlay some real carbon fiber with actual resin . Will be covering the coil and fuel rail cover and gold leaf ( or fools gold also available ) with red paint on the unleafed lettering as I reengineer the engine out to what it could be . The valve cover is still a secret ( don't tell any one ) under developmental with Dupont . You gave me the idea earlier with what you did with yours . Thanks .

Why ? Because she's special , just ask her . I catch her saying it all the time .
 
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Old 01-16-2023, 09:18 AM
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His name is David Mattocks in the x308 group on FB. I haven't seen him post these in a while, but I'm sure he wouldn't mind you asking if he has any. Hope that's helpful.
 
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