Hello, guys. I just purchased this car Sunday. The check engine light is on and it goes into restricted performance mode. The guy I bought it from has done a lot of work to the car and I have all of the receipts for the work done.

I took the car this morning to Auto Zone to have the codes read. A ton of codes popped up. Codes for all the cylinders misfiring popped up but the way this car runs there is no way the cylinders are misfiring. Codes also popped up that said the left and right banks were running too lean. The car runs great, had it up over 100 miles an hour. When the restricted performance light comes on nothing happens to the way the car runs, it still sets sail down the highway so I'm not in any hurry to get this done.

The print out from Auto Zone recommends changing spark plugs (which has already been done) and replacing the ignition coils which is what I am going to try.

What my question is, is how hard of a job is this? My dad is an excellent mechanic on old muscle cars so he will be helping me. Is this a job that a rookie can do or is it a tough job?

 

Changing ignition coils is extremely easy, remove the 8 small bolts holding the cover on each valve cover, each ignition coil is held on by two small bolts, remove and replace. But you may want to investigate your codes some more if you know the car isn't misfiring and yet you are getting codes that indicate it is.

 

It has a rough idle some times, not real bad, that we thought was a vacuum leak. So maybe the ignition coils will help that as well. Should I post the other codes in this thread?

 

Lean & misfires are often the same and a common cause. Believe the codes! The car can detect misfires that you cannot feel or hear.

Go hunting for air leaks etc before you get to replace the cats as well as having to fix whatever is wrong.

 

It has a vacuum leak on a valve that the guy put some black tape around but I have no way of telling you guys which part this is as i can't find an engine diagram to find the name of the valve.

 

can you take a picture and post it on this thread? It's likely you wont need coils if you replace the taped up part...
Is it part of the induction tube or throttle body?

 

Stop throwing parts at it and get some information. I doubt all the coils are bad. If the part that's taped comes out of the cam cover and is an accordion hose it's probably the full load breather (right bank) or part load breather (left bank)

Download the workshop manual JTIS21 from the Sticky to learn the repair and maintenance procedures. Also contact SNG Barrett from the vendor directory on the right column of the page and request a free parts manual. Lots of drawings.

 

Its part of the induction tube

 

I think it is this part right here....

https://www.ebay.com/i/390826009571?...3D390826009571

 

that's your problem. no need for coils, fix that first.

 

k, thanks man, and on a side note, a code also came up P1111 System pass

 

Yep, that's the part, but you can do better on the price. I just got one from jlrreno.com for $15.76. Replace that first. Also, get a scanner that reads live data. You can tell a lot about what the engine is doing and read your codes without having to go to Autozone.

P1111 is a good code; that means that all of your emissions components are working.


Mark
XJR-100

 

Thanks for the help everyone, I will update this thread when I get the part and install it and let everyone know how the idle and codes are.

 

Take the induction pipe off and inspect the accordion folds for breaks and also insure that the rubber gasket that seals the connection to the throttle body is in good condition.

 

Will do

 

Hey guys and gals. Got the part last night and changed it this morning. Didn't help the rough idle. Another code that came up was P1384 and P1396 for the VVT solenoid. From all the searching I have done on it in these forums it looks like a number of things can cause this error code, and it also said this is another symptom of a rough idle. The timing chain and tensioners have been changed 3k miles ago and the threads I read said messing with this can cause these solenoids to throw error codes.

From my searching on these forums it said that I might not be getting enough oil pressure at idle. And to do an oil flush and try a higher viscosity oil. Right now it has 5w30 synthetic in it.

Just ran the codes again and this time P1396 didnt come up, only solenoid A

I'm also going to clean the Mass air flow sensor.

Can someone tell me what the zip tie is around on the picture i posted?

 

If you're referring to the piece with a white zip-tie just forward of the full load breather hose, that appears to be your A-Bank VVT connector (my engine doesn't have VVT, but it looks like that is where the solenoid would be). Since you're getting a code from that part, pop the zip-tie and see why it's there (broken connector tangs?) and make sure there's good contact between the two pieces of the connector fitting. Have you downloaded the workshop manual (JTIS)? There are a few pin point tests in there to check the eletrical current to the VVT solenoids.


Mark
XJR-100

 

I downloaded the manual but everytime i try to use it i get an error code and it says application has stopped working and closes

 

Well, you're going to have to figure out why the download isn't working, 'cause that workshop manual is a mandatory item for working on the car. I'm running Windows 10 and it opens every time. In the meantime, I've attached the tests from the manual so you can see what you need to do.

 

Tinsletown… what fixed the problem ?